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Saturday, September 22, 2007

Front-row views and videos from London Fashion Week...
  • We've always loved Deryck Walker's directional menswear. We're pleased to say the Scottish designer didn't disappoint with his off-schedule spring collection, debuting a suitably androgynous women's line with windmill-inspired aluminium-blade detailing just as self-empowering as the real thing. At times the aluminium pieces took on huge propeller-like, statement-y proportions.

  • We first brought you Basso & Brooke back in 2003, when the bad-ass print artists were making hot pads illustrated with penises and picnic blankets with ejaculation splatters. For better or worse, they've matured since then, at least judging from their perfectly polite dresses for spring, the defining feature of which were still Pucci-punchy prints, but a little more refined, this time inspired by mid-century abstract art. Hunormous hats resembling paint palettes were a standout, but if you make us talk about Issy, we're liable to get all weepy.

  • Jonathan Saunders used to make eye-crossing, Escher-like prints, but you'd never know it from his clean, geometric lines and asymmetrical color-blocking for spring—as much of a looker as he is. We especially loved his ra-ra skirts in a papery material.

  • Lots of designers try their hand at androgyny, with varying success, but Danish-born Jens Laugesen nailed it with gold lamé riffs on the tuxedo jacket and masculine, art deco-inspired column dresses, contrasted with strapless circle dresses and A-line bow-tie skirts.

  • For their part, Sinha-Stanic worked it with sold-color tunic dresses, interesting draping around the neck and shoulders and the use of an odd tile-like material with fur sticking out like grass between stone steps. Much experimentation here, and you know we're suckers for what's next.