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Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Air Supply

Haidee Findlay-Levin rides the wind...

I ventured over to the Issey Miyake show to see what they would do now that designer Naoki Takizawa has left to show his own collections in New York, though still under the Miyake umbrella. I had heard that Nicola Formichetti of Dazed and Confused was styling it, so I was extra curious.

On entering we were confronted by a huge yellow duct that looked like the inside of a giant vacuum cleaner. In a way, it was. Inspired by wind, Dai Fujiwara (Miyake's new designer) collaborated with Dyson, the maker of that little yellow wonder machine, the bagless vacuum cleaner. As such, the tunnel was a kind of wind installation by James Dyson himself that branched out into still more yellow wind tunnels, all gyrating and blowing air into the voluminous clothes as models walked by. (We're told the Miyake team dismantled a Dyson vacuum to better understand how it moves air.)

The clothes themselves were a welcome return to the technical fabric innovations that Miyake is famous for: huge pleated cocoon-shaped and origami dresses in candy colors, brightly printed rain ponchos and, continuing the Dyson collaboration, parachute-like pieces that appeared to be searching for their rightful landing spot. I couldn't help but sense that a Miyake revival could be on the way.

- Haidee Findlay-Levin