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Monday, October 8, 2007

Carolina Overmeer fetishizes...

Louis Vuitton took so long to start that, at one point, Catherine Deneuve asked for a glass of water, Courtney Love lit a cigarette and, as usual, photographers hollered and generally made asses of themselves. Everyone was asking, "What's going on with Marc Jacobs?" Suddenly, finally, the lights went off and a line of very sexy nurses (many of the supermodel ilk who no longer do the catwalk: Naomi Campbell, Nadja Auermann, Eva Herzigova, etc.) walked out in transparent uniforms, with mouths covered in black lace and hands on colorful bags by American artist Richard Prince, Vuitton's chosen collaborator of the season.

Under a ceiling covered with the kind of pulp-fiction covers for which Prince is famous, and with a soundtrack mixed by Daft Punk, Jacobs presented his unique brand of chic, though much more sensual and provocative this time: fitted dresses, pencil skirts, snug sweaters in cashmere and lurex—mixed with transparent nylon coats and gloves. Even better than the pieces, however, was the magnificent styling, the way colors and accessories were put together, suggesting the right proportions for each look. The cherry on the cake, as usual, were the bags, which, thanks to Prince, were particularly good this season. Some had a shiny vernis finish, while others other had a corroded effect reminiscent of the artist that obscured the LV monogram.

On the way backstage, I saw Hilary Alexander, who said, like other editors, she was still deliberating her impressions of the collection. I risk to say critics will come to think there was not enough fashion in the clothes, no big new ideas or proposals in the way of shape or silhouette. The public, though, will surely love it, at least judging from the huge crowd of reporters that surrounded Jacobs after the show. At one point, I saw him sweat, choke and ask for a glass of water, just like the Belle du Jour herself.