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Thursday, January 31, 2008

Stockholm Fashion Week: Cheap Monday

The price-conscious folks at Cheap Monday say pigeons, ducks and foxes inspired their fall collection. That’s all well and good, but really there’s no need to make such claims. We don’t look to Cheap Monday for strokes of genius—we just want to find out what the skinny-jeans set will be wearing next season. Here’s a preview.

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Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Stockholm Fashion Week: Carin Wester

Please all, let's stop making so many statements through our wardrobe about our toughness—there’s been so much permutation on the theme already—and let's start making them about our vulnerability. Carin Wester has figured out how with her women's and men's fall collection. At first glance, the gender roles we've seen the last batch of seasons seem to be reinforced: the men appear to be the teddy bears, little characters outfitted in a sweet mixture of Where’s Waldo, Marcel Marceau and the type of sailor we romanticize when we think of sailors—silent, tattooed, muscly, poetic—and women are once again calling the shots in leather gloves and head-to-toe black. But the longer the study, the more the blinds part and we’re left blinking in the sunlight of an inspired vision. Dresses, which cover the front of the body, totally open up at the back, complete with slit-vented elbows. If an exposed back doesn't scream unguarded, please tell me what does. Men, meanwhile, are bundled up and then some, down to gigantic Aspen-cozy mittens whose proportions deem them sinister. Throughout the collection—and this is where Carin slyly shows her hand—hemlines on women tilt backward, pitching garments slightly upward and open; on men, hems tilt forward so they seem more enveloped, brooding and potentially ready to pounce.

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Stockholm Fashion Week: Rodebjer

There was a special flavor of punk in Rodebjer's collection—not city or suburban punk, but small-town punk, the realest kind. It doesn't rebel against anything systematic, corporate or manufactured, but something inherently stifling in its surroundings. Confrontationally sullen, the collection had an undeniable sweetness to its surly enterprise, the way it feels when a teenager hates you with such passion that it's endearing. Models with flyaway and greasy hair wore narrow corduroys rolled up at the bottom, not-cool farmer’s daughter jeans, cafeteria-server smocks, cat-eye glasses, long-sleeved mini-dresses decorated with a tiny box of a vest, menacing hoodies—hood up, of course, hands stuffed in pockets—and blouses with bitchy little ruffles. Blank-faced, they skulked to the end of the runway in a black cloud of apathy, like when your mom summoned you from across the house and you'd take your sweet-ass time getting there. Add to that enormous elephant-eared tops that tied around the neck in a bib, a double-breasted Donald Trump sportcoat as dress (which is showing up everywhere, actually) and an incredible jodhpur jumpsuit, and you have an evocative, wearable collection—the kind of curled-upper-lip clothing you wear when you roll out of bed expecting to have a bad day and want to revel in it.

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Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Stockholm Fashion Week: Filippa K

Designers thumb their noses at trends by either deconstructing them or ignoring them. Filippa K is in the latter camp. Until this season, she had never participated in Stockholm Fashion Week, instead throwing a party in a small art space and inviting pretty much everyone to cram in and look at her latest women's and men's collection. This time though, for fall 08, she rolled out a black rubber runway at the opulent Swedish Royal Opera and blasted, among other rock-punk anthems, Patti Smith's "Free Money."

At first the whole production seemed a little off. Models were well-behaved in well-executed monosyllabic designs, and the audience sat still, begging the question: Why go to great lengths to secure such a massively gilded space and set up a little strip of contrast if she didn't want to show utter decadence, chaos or rebelliousness? And then it started to sink in. All the men's ties, which so rudely clashed with plaid shirts, were tied improperly and worn outside the collar around a bare neck. Bulky, near-shapeless sweaters or mean leather jackets crushed delicate, hand-painted silk dresses and tops, while belts were not threaded through loops and suspenders were not on shoulders. Richly subversive and rewarding, the quiet anarchy belied a compliant appearance, subtly emitting a strong message: all is not quiet in the land of the acquiescent. Watch out.

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Stockholm Fashion Week: Sandra Backlund

Sandra Backlund's knitwear—or, more accurately, wearable knitscapes—possesses a violent gentility, with its cascading bells, bouncing caulifloral clusters, baseball-sized chenille pompons and knotted drainpipes. Her indefatigable dresses, resembling armor made from soufflé, seemed to burst with joy as they pulled and ached and exalted the body, not unlike the way a chandelier dangles precariously from a ceiling to shower light across a room. Which is exactly what Sandra did, lowering the theater's huge glittering light-beasts to runway level so her models could walk around them, which perfectly hammered home her message of strength through fragility.


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Monday, January 28, 2008

Just so you know what's up...

Longtime Hint friend Kim Jones has just signed on as the new creative director of Dunhill, the high-end English men's label. He'll be designing not only Dunhill's collections, but also its legendary leather goods and accessories. Congrats, Kim! Here, a quickie Q&A...

How did the deal come about? Did they just ring you up? Are companies constantly ringing you up?
Dunhill came through Floriane de Saint Pierre, who approached me last October. I do have a lot of people calling. I would say I get around four calls a month, but this was a very big call.

At first glance, Dunhill's image doesn't exactly mesh with yours, which is probably why they sought you out. Are they looking for a new kind of customer?
You'd be surprised. At the moment, around 50% of their sales are casualwear. And I am quite the English gentleman, as you know!

Who was the Dunhill customer, and who is it now with you in charge?
Dunhill has a very loyal following of a wide variety of guys. All I want to do is introduce it to a different person, without alienating the older customer.

What direction will you take the brand? Will you go dandy? Punk? Street hustler?
I will take it modern. That's what Alfred Dunhill was all about: luxury, travel and the best of everything.

What does this mean for your own line?
I'm stopping my line to focus on this. It's a dream job for me to do a British men's house and I want to give it all my time. I'd like to use this opportunity to say thank you to all the people that have supported me and my team.

Will Jude Law stay on as the face of Dunhill?
Absolutely. Although, at the moment, I do have an odd crush on Kermit the Frog. Is that weird?

Kim with Kanye West and Takashi Murakami (plus two from Takashi's team)...

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For Dogtown and Z-Boys, Thrasher freaks and deck collectors, Skate Study House debuts today at Colette. A project by 80's freestyle pro Pierre André Senizergues and Gil Le Bon de Lapointe, the exhibition recreates iconic pieces of furniture by the likes of Mies van der Rohe and Le Corbusier using skateboard ephemera. It's high design for post-grungers. Radical.

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Saturday, January 26, 2008

No one captures the London fashion scene, in all its brazen abandon, like photographer Matt Irwin. Check out Appetite for Construction, an exhibit of his recent work, during London Fashion Week...

Monday, February 11, 7:30-10 pm
The Print Space
74 Kingsland Road
London E2 8DL

Friday, January 25, 2008

Boxer-clad models horsing around backstage at Kris Van Assche's fall collection. Is there anything more wholesome?

Photos by Andrew Burmeister

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Wednesday, January 23, 2008

This is the invitation to a screening of Bernhard Willhelm's "Men In Tights" short film, co-produced by Nick Knight, to present his fall men's collection. It was shown first at Paris men's week and now in New York on Feburary 1 at the Tribeca Grand. (By invitation only.) We're told to expect stockings, beards and, um, woodsy animals.

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São Paulo Fashion Week

The scene, the freaks, the curvy-cool Oscar Neimeyer-designed venue and other random moments from São Paulo Fashion Week, with music by Brazilian sensation Cansei de Ser Sexy.

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São Paulo Fashion Week: Amapo, Neon, Fabia Bercsek

Three more fave collections...

Still pics from Amapo, available in São Paulo at Surface to Air...

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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

São Paulo Fashion Week: Isabela Capeto

Isabela Capeto is a Rio-based designer, but made the most of São Paulo Fashion Week by installing her fall collection on twirling mannequins in her São Paulo store. Isabela has a uniquely Brazilian aesthetic—a sweetly naive and kind of nutty one at that—with pulsing bright colors and handmade prints, but never in an over-the-top Carmen Miranda way. For fall, as if she needed to get any bigger in Japan, Isabela says she was inspired by a recent trip to Tokyo, hence the jumble of cityscape prints, kimono-esque shapes, funky jewelry and pink wigs (what is it with the Japanese and colored hair?). In addition to Rio and São Paulo, you can find her irresistibly cute wares in Barneys in Japan, Browns in London and Colette in Paris. Be sure to check out her new perfume in a bottle designed by Surface to Air, a three-dimensional version of her flared-skirt logo.

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Sunday, January 20, 2008

São Paulo Fashion Week: Alexandre Herchcovitch

What would São Paulo Fashion Week be without its premier provocateur? Here, highlights from Alexandre Herchcovitch's fall collection, which, he told us, is all about math (or "meth," as he pronounces it, cutely), geometry and graphs, as if the body didn't exist...

And this is his men's show later in the week, plus a moment with him backstage. By the way, in both of these clips, can you spot Alexandre making his finale hidden among the models?...

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Saturday, January 19, 2008

São Paulo Fashion Week: Osklen

If you've been to the Meatpacking recently, you probably noticed a new little store called Osklen (and maybe you realized there's another in Soho). Designed by Oscar Metsavaht—who, by the way, is a former doctor—Osklen began as a ski label, which has to be a first for Rio de Janeiro, where the company is headquartered. But something clicked and now Osklen, now a major label in Brazil, is a kind of cross between Moncler and Marc Jacobs, which is to say quirky, wearable and expensive. And like Marc's infamous collection for Perry Ellis ages ago, Oscar went grunge for fall...

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Friday, January 18, 2008

São Paulo Fashion Week

Vivienne Westwood spoke about her collaboration with Melissa, Brazilian makers of colorful plastic shoes who've previously collaborated with Judy Blame and Alexandre Herchcovitch, and took the opportunity to expound on American exploitation ("We're all going to die if it continues"), the virtues of Barack Obama, her manifesto on art and culture, why we must consume less and the real reason Naomi fell...

And here are the shoes, jelly plastic versions of Westwood classics, in a variety of Smucker's colors...

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There's a new reason to love Kitsuné: its first store, naturally on its home turf in Paris (52, rue de Richelieu 75001). Opening in March, the teeny boutique will carry all the collabos and such we've been plugging: Pierre Hardy for Kitsuné, Commuun for Kitsuné, Schiesser underwear for Kitsuné, James Heeley candles for Kitsuné and, of course, all the yummy music that makes Kitsuné so irresistible.


Thursday, January 17, 2008

We're getting one just thinking about the latest exhibit from Danish label Wood Wood, "Highmath," featuring artists Evan Hecox, Ed Templeton and Kaws, among others, and launching during Berlin Fashion Week. The catalog will double as the next issue of the German street-art rag Arkitip.

Opening January 30
Pool Gallery
Tucholskystrasse 38
10117 Berlin, Germany
Phone +49 30 24342462

Evan Hecox

Michael Perry

Richard Colman

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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

“I had found an organic architecture created by our pursuit of raw materials," says artist Edward Burtynsky of Quarries, his new large-scale show of photographs at Flowers Central in London. "Open-pit mines are to me like inverted pyramids. Photographing dimensional stone quarries was a deliberate act of going out in the world to find something that would match the kinds of forms I held in my imagination. It's the idea of inverted skyscrapers.”

Evocative of Matthew Barney for its exploration of industrial/ritualistic processes, Burtynsky's five-year documentation led him to China, India, Spain, Portugal, Italy and the U.S. in search of the grandiose geometry of these secret landscapes. A same-named book has also been published by the reliably brilliant Steidl.

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Tuesday, January 15, 2008

There's the sexy sneeze of shoemakers—Blahnik, Louboutin, Choo—and then there's Ernesto Esposito, a crazy Italian who's been creating footwear for the likes of Marc Jacobs, Fendi and Chloé since the 80s. He's also amassed an unparalleled art collection (Rondinone, Koh, Beecroft and dozens more, totaling around 800 works), to go on view in Gravity, a solo show at Museo Artium, beginning January 31.


Monday, January 14, 2008

The third issue of Livraison is out. The theme of the limited-edition Swedish magazine—which publishes from the "backwoods of culture and commerce," they say—is Secret Identities. Contributors include (in alpha order): Bruce LaBruce, Collier Schorr, Daniel Sannwald, Els Pynoo, Helmut Lang, John Scarisbrick, Marcelo Krasilcic, Mike Mills, Patrik Söderstam, Richard Burbridge, Richard Kern, Sandra Backlund and Sølve Sundsbø. Oh, and there's a launch party on January 22 at 0046 in Paris. By invitation only.


More street style from Seoul, South Korea, by yourboyhood...

December 20, 2007
Moon Joo Young (21), musician
place: K.F.P.A (Korea Fashion Photography Association) exhibition at DAILY PROJECTS

parka _ Bernhard Willhelm
sweatshirt _ Laundry 202
pants _ Nudie Jeans Co.
shoes _ ato
bag _ Laundry 202

December 20, 2007
Kim Hyeon Seong, photographer
place: K.F.P.A (Korea Fashion Photography Association) exhibition at DAILY PROJECTS

Kim Hyeon Seong is fashion photographer. He works with Harper's Bazaar Korea, GQ Korea, Esquire Korea, Vogue Korea, W Korea, Vogue Girl and fashion designer Juun. J, BON by Han Sang Hyuk, KUHO, New Balance by Jain Song and more works. His studio named 'U.F.O Studio' located at 16-9 B1, Chungdam-dong, Kangnam-gu.

shoes _ Converse

homepage: www.ufo-studio.com

December 20, 2007
Kim Daul (18), model & artist
place: Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu

coat _ Azzedine Alaia
bag _ Maison Martin Margiela

homepage: www.iliketoforkmyself.blogspot.com

November 15, 2007
Lee Jaewon (26), fashion marketing
place: Apgujeong-dong, Gangnam-gu

bag _ Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière

homepage: www.cyworld.com/plentymore

November 04, 2007
Lee Se-joong (23), student
place: Sunday flea market (1st & 3rd sunday of every month) at DAILY PROJECTS, 1-24, Chungdam-dong, Kangnam-gu

coat _ Y's by Yohji Yamamoto
sweater _ Diet Butcher Slim Skin
jeans _ Diet Butcher Slim Skin
shoes _ Converse
glasses _ Tateossian London
necklace _ Ann Demeulemeester
watch _ IWC

photographs by Hong Sukwoo a.k.a. yourboyhood.com

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This just in from Hedi Slimane...

Daily diary.
Photographic archives (castings, fittings, backstages...), from Saint Laurent to Dior.
Definition of a silhouette.
On ligne from January 15.


Thursday, January 10, 2008

Cyril Duval's third and final report from Art Basel...

So I've covered the booths and the parties of Art Basel, but what about the beaches? Luckily enough, your loyal servant was cordially invited to miss an entire day of the fair to board a private plane and be one of the first visitors to Dellis Cay. And, for me, it was the best part of Art Basel.

What is Dellis Cay, you ask? Only the latest brainchild of Dr. Cem Kinay, a Turkish tycoon who's built a myriad of resort hotels all around the Mediterranean. Looking for a new challenge, the charismatic entrepreneur recently bought an entire 560-acre island in the Turks & Caicos archipelago off the Florida coast, not far from the Bahamas. Teaming up with the Mandarin Oriental hotel group, he then started crafting his dream of a luxury resort on the island chain, with living environments designed by some of the greatest architects of our time: Zaha Hadid, Piero Lissoni, Kengo Kuma and Shigeru Ban, to name a few. Forget Dubai, the Emirates and their dreams of glory and modernism! Just surf to Dellis Cay for a glimpse of the future architectural leisure paradise.

Sarah of Colette (with whom I have worked on several projects, including the opening of Colette meets Comme des Garçons in Tokyo) and I were excited to go to the island, invited by Nadine Johnson, who runs such a fantastic PR company. As Sarah and I are more actors in the fields of art, fashion and design than press, our idea was to "cover" the island with a different angle: taking tourist-style pictures of ourselves on the island with a disposable camera. We also brought on two other musketeers: Jina Khayyer, the Parisian correspondent of the Süddeutsche Zeitung, and Simon Castets, a mischievous friend of ours and a talented private art consultant.

We left early in the morning from the Raleigh Hotel and boarded the jet, where we met the others, about 40 people in all, including Dr. Cem Kinay himself, as well as Piero Lissoni to view the site of his future creation, the first on the island to be realized. When the plane took off and we all received little press kit of Dellis Cay (each contained in an engraved iPod nano!), we decided to indulge ourselves in the pleasures of the jet set. Here I am talking about Dom Perignon. Then I don't remember much, except that we entertained the other passengers with our tricks. At one point, I decided to challenge the supreme coolness of art collector Jean "Johnny" Pigozzi, who was talking with Sarah, by adopting a 1930's movie star look—I put on a fake mustache and read the Herald Tribune upside-down.

Landing in Providenciales, the main island of Turks & Caicos, we passed through customs, got a cool new stamp on our passport, jumped on a private boat and rode fast on the warm and clear azure water toward Dellis Cay, which is still absent of any buildings. (Construction will start in the beginning of 2008 and the island will officially open at the end of 2009. I can't wait to come back for the official opening.) Stepping foot on the island was like a Christopher Columbus dream—well, at least before we were welcomed by a small army of smiling staff, all dressed in white and handing us a personal beach kit to enjoy the day.

More champagne glasses later, and after a buffet of lobsters tails, I headed to the private massage parlor, where I had one of the greatest massages ever. But the clock was running so we decided to go swimming and start our tourist shoot. Simon and I had prepared everything, after hours of compulsive shopping in Miami's tackiest beachwear shops. We had a painted coconut bra for the Jina, an American flag beach towel for Simon, and a tropical sunset towel with flamingos for myself, as well as some special props I had brought from my favorite shop in Tokyo, such as sunglasses without the lenses. (Originally I gave these glasses to Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto, as he said he couldn't live without them. We agreed he would produce them under his label, we would share the profits and that this collaboration would be our Kelly bag!)

The shoot we made was hilarious and the polaroids captured the colorful aesthetic I was trying to set up. Simon and I had picked out a colorful centipede floatie to play with in the water, but we couldn't fit more than three on it. Johnny then told us that it was exactly the same centipede that Jeff Koons had exhibited a few years before at Art Basel. Maybe he found it in the same shop where younger brains would dig it out a few years later.

The day was almost over, so we left the island to its beautiful original state and took boats back to Providenciales, heading to the house of Dr. Michael E. Misick, the Premier of Turks & Caicos, for late cocktails. Here at his residence, with its grounds laid with rocks in the map of the archipelago, we would enjoy our last moments, joking with the Premier and his son, who obviously shares the same passion for sunglasses and cigars. Simon took the opportunity to talk with Dr. Cem Kinay, who remained a man of mystery during the day, learning how he convinced the aforementioned stars of architecture to participate in the environmentally concerned yet luxurious project: by calling it a challenge.

That is all about Dellis Cay, but the dream has just started. One last anecdote: I arrived for sunbathing the next day on Miami Beach with the Dellis Cay bathrobe I was given, when Sarah asked, "But Cyril, do you realize that you are wearing the bathrobe of a hotel that doesn't exist yet?" As we realized the veracity and beauty of what she said, Simon added, "Cyril, you're a walking Pierre Huyghe."

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Wednesday, January 9, 2008

While the focus of last night's launch at Max Lang gallery were customized shoes for Repetto, the famed French maker of ballet flats, the buzz was who went where for the holidays. It seemed everyone in attendance of the 60th anniversary bash had spent time lolling on a tropical beach—if not uptown salon Tanz’mania. Bronzed and rested attendees included Thom Browne and participating artist Tobias Wong, who dipped his flats in 18-karat gold because “it was the most obvious thing to do," he said, "I wanted to preserve them!” Others who took a dip in the customization pool included Helmut Lang, Comme des Garçons, Colette's Sarah Lerfel, Proenza Schouler, Waris Ahluwalia, Barneys' Julie Gilhart (who glued her googly eyes on herself) and Vanessa Beecroft, who seemed to be channeling Amy Winehouse with a pair of bloody ballet flats. The show remains on view through Sunday, before going into the windows of Bergdorf Goodman, then around the world and on to Paris, where the shoes will be auctioned off to benefit The Repetto Foundation, in partnership with UNESCO.

Vanessa Beecroft, Julie Gilhart, Sarah Lerfel

Comme des Garçons, Jean Paul Gaultier

Helmut Lang

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Monday, January 7, 2008

Following Hint's footage of its making, Ben Charles Edwards' "Eat Your Chiffon"—a dinner party hosted by Natt Weller and Zandra Rhodes, with a host of fashion names—finally goes live. Part I is the anticipation, Part II is Zandra multitasking in the kitchen while reminiscing about dressing Princess Di, the genius of Poiret and how “London still has a cutting edge, but the rest of the world doesn’t want to admit it.” Part III, the finale, sees Zandra and co. settling down to dinner and chewing the linguistic fat—Andrew Logan on how Divine was like a brother to him, Piers Atkinson on Zandra's brush-sweeping technique, Marios Schwab and much more. It's a fashion feast.

Part I

Part II

Part III

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Friday, January 4, 2008

Author Oonagh O'Hagan dishes with Dean Mayo Davies about Post-It abuse...

“I was living in South London in a flat with a load of random people. All were very nice apart from one, who was a prolific Post-It writer. She wrote about everything and had a one or two note a day habit," explains Oonagh O’Hagan, author of “I Lick My Cheese...and Other Notes From The Frontline of Flatsharing” (Sphere), a book of Post-It perversion that provides a snapshot of house-sharing turned ugly. "Only when I told friends and colleagues did I realise I wasn’t alone in this literary domestic torture!”

Up and down England, and certainly everywhere, a silent war is being waged with notes—hostile missives scribbled not only on Post-Its, but also bills, cigarette packets, back of envelopes, even in margarine. Chances are you're either a scribbler or receiver of these paper daggers. “We’ve all had a flatmate from hell," continues Oonagh, formerly of Tank magazine and Rem Koolhaas' AMO agency. "I've spent years as an undemocratically appointed flat cleaner, or a cash cow, like when a flatmate used my bill money to fund his upcoming art exhibition!”

With four million people sharing flats in the UK alone, Oonagh has opened the door on a vast yet largely unknown phenomenon with her new tome. Proof can be found on an accompanying website, where sufferers are encouraged to post their own notes for all to see. International contributions are especially welcome. Plus, if your own domestic situation is more dramatic than a Dynasty marathon, you can even shop for a new housemate.

Art director, lecturer, ideas merchant and Central Saint Martins fashion graduate, Oonagh is currently putting the finishing touches on her "very conceptual" line of jewellery, which will be sold in the best stockists in Paris and London. "The line questions what contemporary jewelry actually is,” she explains. Today I think the boundaries between art, design, fashion, exhibition, retail space, etc. are becoming so blurred.” Look for another, more serious, book from Oonagh on that very subject.


Thursday, January 3, 2008

Ever wonder how fashion ads get their glossy, mesmerizing appeal? Our friends at Work in Progress, responsible for the campaigns of Prada, Miu Miu, Chloé and so on, have set up a blog to answer just such questions...


In the Colette gallery from January 7 - 26, Boogie will exhibit photos from his first book, "It's All Good" (Powerhouse). A Serbian who—thanks to the magic of the green-card lottery—fled to Brooklyn at the height of his country's civil war, he knows a thing or two about social unrest. Thus, despite Boogie's up-tempo name, a warning: the images are kind of a downer, yet in that enduringly optimistic way artists have...


Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Sale at Acne—online, too! Swedes do it better...