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Monday, February 23, 2009

London Fashion Week: Peter Jensen

By Bethan Cole...

As charming and oblique as one of Tove Jansson's short stories, Peter Jensen's fall '09 show was based on a nostalgic narrative he created about his Aunt Jytte, who immigrated to Greenland in the 1970s. Whereas Jensen's recent shows have fomented and distilled his brand of naïve, kooky preppy chic, this offering seemed more disparate and eclectic. Jensen watchers noticed a return to his very early collections, which were more random and less pulled together than those of late.

There were flourishes of Scandinavian chic—folksy embroidery (Jensen had taken research trips to Greenland and the Faroes) and a Nanook of the North teal-hued coat with fur-trimmed hood—but there were also elements of his cute classicism. These included a new-school Chanel-type bouclé jacket and odd touches like saggy hats, à la Durer, and a beaded cape worn over a suit.

You could have called it outsider fashion, a kind of dressing that didn't channel very obvious trends, instead embracing the innocence of times when women were not so brainwashed by fashion diktats. The artfully embroidered white leather thigh boots were reminiscent of Emily Watson's doomed attire in Breaking the Waves. They spoke of a joyous lack of rationality, cynicism and decorum.

Peter Jensen

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