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Monday, August 31, 2009

Last Hurrah

If one is going to introduce the hideous notion of the end of summer, best to do it with a musical romp and perfume wafts. Over the weekend, Rufus Wainwright and Norah Jones—along with Rufus' sister Martha Wainwright, who belted out material from her new CD of Edith Piaf songs—did just that with Last Song of Summer, an intimate concert in Bridgehampton, sponsored by Viktor & Rolf Parfums...


Rufus Wainwright / Martha Wainwright


Norah Jones / Artist Lisa de Kooning & Russian performance artist Andrey Bartenev


Anjelica Huston / Isabella Rossellini & daughter Elettra Wiedemann

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Headline Trip

Christy Turlington dons nothing but rawhide—i.e. biker leathers, nude male models. It must be time for YSL's new manifesto. [Facebook]

It's pretty good if a vest is the only thing questionable about the solo debut of The Strokes frontman Julian Casablanca at the launch of Opening Ceremony in Tokyo. [Pitchfork]

Christopher Kane may not own a bichon frisé, but he does have one kick-ass sister and a new line for Topshop. [Times UK]

Though he remains in fashion limbo, Olivier Theyskens will release a tome chronicling his epic vision. [WWD]

Who says models have to age? An eternal, if stiff, Kate Moss unveiled at Madame Tussauds just in time for Fashion Week. [Vogue UK]

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Flyer on the Wall

Friday, August 28, 2009

Headline Trip

A sneak peek at Ryan McGinley’s descent for his newest show. Thankfully, it doesn't end like The Descent, the slasher flick. [10men]

Return of the jock? If Karl Largerfeld says so, it must be true. [WWD]

Spike Jonze goes Wild for Opening Ceremony. [W]

There's an afterlife after all. Thanks to Christopher Kane, Versace's Versus line returns from the grave. [Fashion Week Daily]

Variety is reporting Heathers is heading to the small screen as a regular series. F%&$ us gently with a chainsaw! [Variety]

It’s an arty party for Chrissy Miller’s newest Sophmore collection, with a little help from pals Rita Ackermann and Aurel Schmidt. [Refinery 29]


Rita Ackermann and Aurel Schmidt for Sophomore

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Thursday, August 27, 2009

Back to the Present

“TRON was a life-changer. I thought I had seen the future. It was the first film to predict our urge to crawl into our computers and stay there,” says Joan Juliet Buck, fashion maven and former French Vogue editor-in-chief—oh, and the villain in Julie and Julia. Who better to host a screening of Disney's 1981 classic at the Rubin Museum of Art this Friday?

With its bold, seminal vision of the future, TRON may have sparked more than a few fledgling fashion imaginations. It doesn't take a pachydermic memory to recall recent designer homages. Not one to miss a fashion possibility herself, Joan went on to tell us, “I got Leo Lerman at Vogue to send me out west to interview the men behind the computer graphics. I had Helmut Newton photograph a guy lying inside a Cray Computer. I even went to Jet Propulsion Lab, where they were hand-coloring pics of Saturn! I still have the notes from the trip—today viewed from yesterday. Just don't call it back to the future!”

—Franklin Melendez

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Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Headline Trip

Carine Roitfeld shares her sought-after style secrets. And although they involve more than smudged eyeliner and see-through clothes, they don't hurt either. [Times UK]

It's all grunge and glory for Kate Moss and her latest Topshop offering. [Vogue UK]

Mary J. Blige is teaming up with Gucci for an old-fashioned bash—a sign that Fashion Week is returning to normal? [Fashion Week Daily]

The new Vogue Hommes Japan channels hard-hitting glamour and pole-dancing realness—no word if Madonna choreographed. [Nicola Formichetti]

Munchkin muses The Olsens get their props with a Cathy Horyn preview of The Row. (And here, because we couldn't resist, is a funny old pic of them working Napolean-Smurf chic.) [On the Runway]

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Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Hooked: Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela's eyewear debut, L’Incognito, brought you sleek anonymity with its black-barred face redaction. Now the Maison brings you the Mono Lens, a highly evolved descendant of the classic aviator—or, perhaps more accurately, a car windshield you can strap to your face. The ultimate in retro futurism by way of Dada playfulness, the latest model also manages to reflect fall's armored mood, in its own perverse way. $495 at Oki-Ni, available in amber or gray.

—Franklin Melendez



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Monday, August 24, 2009

Headline Trip

Since it'd be too obvious to just go into fashion, Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld is opting to curate another art show with a New York Fashion Week launch. [NY Observer]

Mystic revelations from Chloe Sevigny and Joe Denardo fuel the hysteria surrounding Opening Ceremony's Tokyo launch. [Daily Beast]

Now you can get your nails did with the likes of Carri Mundane at WAH in East London. Hipsters were bound to show up. [The Moment]

Is Grace Coddington Vogue's secret puppet master? The September Issue is rife with juicy secrets. [Page Six]

The second issue of LOVE hits newsstands today, featuring Miss Piggy in Marc Jacobs and Allegra Versace flirting with the family business. [LOVE]


WAH Nails

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Randomness

I first came across Phil X. Milstein on what may be the very best website on the entire Internet: WFMU's Beware of the Blog. There, Milstein is revered as one of the founders of the American Song-Poem Music Archive and a contributor with a vast knowledge of musical arcana. He's a true online music god, writing for countless e-zines and contributing to projects by and about indie artists like Thurston Moore, Half-Japanese and Jandek.

Probe is Turning on the People is Phil's personal virtual radio show, a place to post whatever he likes, arranged into more-or-less themed showcases. The range includes everything from The Ed Sullivan Show clips, oddball covers, unknown B-sides and rare demos. But it's not all novelty funny business—historically fascinating blues, ska and country cuts turn up here, too. This is a place where you can get your Oedipus on with Mr. Rogers' "I'm Going to Marry Mom," hear a Cambodian version of The Carpenters' "Superstar," or learn the back history of the dirty-talk blues classic "Shave Em' Dry."

I'll leave you to sort through the Johnny Cash sound-a-likes, the myriad versions of "How I Got To Memphis" and the sub-sub-genre of songs spawned by game shows. My playlist, though, includes Sue Lyon singing the "Ya Ya Song," Jay Chevalier's "Castro Rock," Gitta Hedding's German-language ska track "Das Ist Der Blue Beat," Porter Wagoner's "Lonelyville" and Big Maybelle's "Ocean of Tears."



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Friday, August 21, 2009

Headline Trip

While rumors are brewing that Haider Ackermann may be Martin Margiela's successor, sources close to the elusive Belgian insist that this is one of his elaborate hoaxes. Whatever the case, we hear the incognito king was at the Los Angeles boutique not long ago waiting on unsuspecting costumers.

The grapevine also has it that Jean Paul Gaultier’s upcoming Hermès show may be his last. Though unconfirmed, you'd be well-advised to stock up on cheeky equestrian looks, just in case. [Fashion Week Daily]

Marc Jacobs after-party + Lady Gaga = signs of economic recovery. Or last gasp? You be the judge. [The Cut]

Designers Carolyn Massey and James Long were singled out by the British Fashion Council for Topman’s NewGen Men. Previous winners include every great Brit of the last twenty years. [WWD]

Apparently Zoolander isn't enough to dissuade models from pursing the slash-actress title. Irina Lazareanu and Agyness Deyn are both heading to a multiplex near you. As a last warning, we refer you to Cindy Crawford's infamous debut. [Grazia]

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Thursday, August 20, 2009

Texas Fever

Don’t let one fast-fashion collaboration fool you; Rodarte is still all high-brow and arty references. Theirs is a rarefied fantasy world filled with things like panniers and daytime gloves. This October, the duo are returning to these esoteric roots, teaming up with Colette in Paris for a special exhibit/shop-in-shop. Sprawling across the second floor, the venture will offer an eclectic mix of their fall offerings mixed with “curated” treasures. These include personal faves like CDs, books and movies (i.e. The Texas Chainsaw Massacre and Rosemary's Baby—so they're not all high-brow), and of course, art pieces from friends like Kim Gordon and L.A. artist Elliott Hundley. To be unveiled during Paris Fashion Week (perhaps a sign of things to come?), the collaboration promises to be second only to the Louvre.

—Franklin Melendez

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Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Headline Trip

Anna Wintour to the guillotine? Not quite, but a financial consulting firm may put an end to her reign of decadence. Eat the cake while you can! [The Observer]

Threeasfour takes on a third wheel (or is it a fourth?), teaming up with Yoko Oko for their spring 2010 presentation. [Fashion Week Daily]

Donatella in her own words as interviewed by Christopher Kane. Those words are even better if you imagine them in the SNL accent. [Times UK]

Puma gives a sneak peek of its first efforts with Hussein Chalayan at the helm—a marriage made in tech heaven. [WWD]

Celebrating its 40th anniversary, GAP will unveil a concept shop on London’s Carnaby street—expect swinging exclusives from Pierre Hardy, Albertus Swanepoel and Pharrell Williams. [Vogue UK]


Hussein Chalayan for Puma

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Masking for Trouble

Not even the rules of spelling and grammar apply to Terence Koh, who sent us this cryptic description of his latest project. We're dying to know what a one-piece face suit is. Visions of snuff films and lucha libre come to mind...

"i just doo window for opening ceremony for project i doo with them for t-shirts, books, one-piece face suits, pencils, sculptural tings, that will just appear

i also just doo their window display

i tink it is powerful for the future new york city

i tank you"

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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Hooked: Comme des Garçons PLAY X Converse

Never one to pass up a juicy collaboration, Comme des Garçons is joining forces (again) with Converse on a limited-edition line of sneakers. Following their 2007 debut with Junya Watanabe Man, the Chuck Taylor All Star line is getting the full Rei make-over. But rather than spinning into the conceptual outer reaches, the collaboration goes back to basics—and this time Comme's secondary PLAY line is getting in on the action. The four pared-down styles—two high-tops and two oxfords in black or white canvas—hark back to the original military classics, offered in various color-blocking combos and embossed with PLAY's slightly disarming, unblinking heart logo.

The shoes will hit the ground running at the end of August at Comme des Garçons boutiques worldwide, as well as select PLAY retailers. At just $100 a pop, the collection shows a commitment to recession-friendly prices—and we can think of no better way to spring into fall.

—Franklin Melendez



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Monday, August 17, 2009

Headline Trip

Opening Ceremony is counting down the days till their Grand Opening in Tokyo. Here's a peek at the J-Pop madness. [Opening Ceremony]

Bronwen Marshall, recent grad of the Royal College of Art, may be fashion's Dr. Frankenstein—in a good way. [Dazed Digital]

Marc Jacobs claims no friends or family will attend his wedding to Lorenzo Martone later this year in Provincetown. Yeah, right! [The Cut]

Is it us, or is Fashion's Night Out's promise to create "engaging and entertaining incentives to inspire consumers and invigorate the economy and local industry" a little underwhelming? [Fashion's Night Out]

Erin Fetherston premieres her new short film, a friendly affair. One guess what it's called. Yup, Birds of a Fether. [Style.com]

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Friday, August 14, 2009

Headline Trip

Living fashion legend Daphne Guinness ruminates on her collaboration with David LaChapelle—ten days of divine madness. [Starworks]

It's worse than we feared: Jesus Luz has joined the ranks of aspiring celebrity DJs. Is this a Misshapes revival? [NY Post]

A peek at Gareth Pugh’s filmic collaboration with Nick Knight from 2006. [Showstudio]

Esteban Cortazar: "proportions, balance, movement, truth" [Facebook]

Bon Marche in Paris to exhibit never-before-seen photos by Guy Bourdin, fashion's own Marquis de Sade. [WWD]


Guy Bourdin

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Thursday, August 13, 2009

+J Walking

At long last, Japanese retailer Uniqlo has confirmed the launch date for its much-anticipated collaboration with minimalist pioneer Jil Sander. The +J collection will hit New York's Soho flagship October 1, a full range of men's and women's tailored classics, including outerwear, denim, knits and accessories.

If the just-released campaign images are any indication, Jil’s first fast-fashion foray hasn't compromised any of her design aesthetic. Pieces like a belted wool coat for women or a three-quarter light coat for men are finished with surgical precision, ensuring that Sander's signature austerity remains intact—even though, with prices ranging from $29.50 to $149.50, it'll be tough to maintain any sort of zen on opening day.

—Franklin Melendez



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Homeless Is More

Home Honey, I'm Hi! is the name of Ksubi's newest installation, a blue plastic hideaway inspired by the homemade shelters of Tokyo's homeless. Where exactly is this installation? In Shibuya, high up on the 5th floor of Cannabis store, of course...



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Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Headline Trip

Continuing a kind of Good Will tour, Anna Wintour is scheduled to appear on David Letterman on August 24. Here's her possible Top Ten list. [Gawker]

Let's hear it for the boys. Fashion Week is shaping up with a dapper docket of men's presentations, including 3.1 Phillip Lim, Odyn Vovk and Bespoken. [WWD]

Look for Agyness doing her best King of Pop impressions in next month’s Harper’s Bazaar. [Models.com]

Shoe designer and champion of the high heel, Nicholas Kirkwood is unveiling a shop-in-shop at Dover Street Market. Rumor has it it'll even carry flats. [Style.com]

To pay her doctor's bills, ailing photographer Corinne Day is auctioning off unpublished snaps of Kate Moss, whom she was first to immortalize. [Vogue UK]

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Hooked: Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang wants to thin out your emaciated wallet even more this fall, but his Frankie Creeper hi-top boot is pure easy spirit. Not quite a pump, not quite a sneaker, this hefty hybrid is tricked out with a loads of hard-edged attitude, including heady-duty hardware and even a little kilt detail for good measure—perfect for faux skinhead looks or, better yet, Spinderella-inspired Nineties redux.

Christened after his model pals (Frankie, Hanne, Lara), the new kicks are available in kidskin, mock croc and our fave, stone-washed black denim. At $480–520, they’re a moderate enough splurge to ensure a meager diet for weeks to come, which means you're bound to look much better in his matching biker shorts. Available in LA at Opening Ceremony, Oak in NYC and the newly launched AlexanderWang.com.

—Franklin Melendez

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Monday, August 10, 2009

Headline Trip

Sundance goes fishing for Bruce Weber hunks with a new online exhibition featuring photos, films and more. [Sundance Channel]

Celebrating her 67th birthday, the unsinkable Betsey Johson pulls from the archives, posting runway videos dating back to her 1978 debut. [WWD]

Proving it's hip to be square, Erin Wasson thumbs her nose at alternate venues and opts for a big bash at the tents. Take that, Milk Studios! [Fashion Week Daily]

We swore we wouldn’t come back for more, but a peek at Blair Waldorf in Hervé Léger guarantees we'll at least tune in for the season premiere. [NY Post]

There's life after Katie Grand, and it's on Pop's blog. [Pop]

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Your First Look: Boy

Looking every bit the trophy wife, Oscar winner Marisa Tomei is the face of Boy (sister label of Band of Outsiders) for fall, following in the funny footsteps of Sarah Silverman...

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Friday, August 7, 2009

Headline Trip

Tavi, the 13-year-old blogging prodigy (clearly Diana Vreeland reincarnated), graces the Damien Hirst-designed covers of POP.

Thinner isn't always better. A slimmed down Vogue makes The September Issue look like “the Titanic two miles out to sea.” Our hearts will go on. [NY Times]

Jeremy Laing released his first-ever campaign, featuring Heather Marks, and joins the cool kids club by showing at Milk Studios for Fashion Week. [Jeremy Laing]

For retailer Jeffrey, it pays to play with dolls—especially designer-clad ones. [The Moment]

A seductive Uma Thurman joins the fragrance fray as the face of Givenchy's Ange ou Demon. [WWD]

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Thursday, August 6, 2009

Hooked: Rick Owens for Eastpak

Who else but the Dark Lord could fill Raf Simons' exacting shoes? Rick Owens is taking over the reigns at Eastpak for their next high-profile collaboration, bringing his unmistakable sensibility to their utilitarian staples. The capsule Rick Owens DRKSHDW Eastpak collection features eleven styles finished in perennial Owens shades of mud, slate and black. Our fave is the classic backpack in distressed canvas treated to look like kangaroo skin (like those sumptuous Owens floppy boots for fall). Morbid? Yes, but just as covetable—and ideal for packing all your candles and cauldrons for witching-hour séances. $296 at Oki-Ni

—Franklin Melendez

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Swede Rush

photography Jenni Porkka
styling Jamie M. Rosenthal
make-up Olle Johansson
hair Martin Christopher Harper
model Dani Karlsson
location Stockholm, Sweden


shawl Carina Sahlin, skirt Bruuns Bazaar, belt ACNE, leather glove Odds
bodysuit Calida, top Tiger of Sweden, wood bangles Echo of Deco
headpiece Nhu Duong



dress Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
jacket Filippa K, gaucho jeans Levi's, headpiece Tour de Force, shoes Topshop



body stocking Disa Treutiger, skirt Fraulein Von Hast
top, jeans & shoes ACNE, headpiece Scherer Gonzalez



top Malene Birger, jacket Carin Wester, pants Nhu Duong
blazer Hugo Boss, skirt Fraulein Von Hast

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Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Headline Trip

Rodarte is next to get the Target treatment. Their magical confections, from knee-highs to leopard print jackets, will be available in December. [WWD]

YSL is joining the social media fray, announcing official Facebook and Twitter pages. Now you can follow Stefano Pilati’s every gesture in real time, starting with the new Manifesto for fall.
[Facebook, Twitter]

Art imitates life imitating semi-sentience. Vancouver-based artist Karin Bubas captures the pathos of The Hills through weeping. We expect a solo show at the Whitney soon. [The Moment]

In more pop-up madness, Gucci is launching Gucci Icon Temporary, a series of transient stores featuring exclusive sneakers collaborations. First stop is Miami for Art Basel. [WWD]

The only thing that might top the now infamous Top Model Shorty Riots may be the open call for extras in Sex and the City 2. We're picturing lots of crushed flowers, scuffed Manolos and overly styled ensembles. [Daily Beast]

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Flyer on the Wall

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Q&A: Jonny Johansson

Not long ago Acne was a relatively unknown skinny jeans company from Sweden. Now with 16 stores internationally, phenomenal collaborations with Lanvin and jeweler Michael Zobel, and an exceptional collection for fall '09, it's ballooned into the brand that everyone is obsessed with. We caught up with founder Jonny Johansson as he vacationed with his family in Stockholm. By Kay Barron

The last year has been great for Acne. The recession has been good to you!
The recession has been good in the sense that it means I can focus on what I really like and almost "clean up" what I do. When I was in London a year ago I met an American guy who was recently bankrupt. He didn’t have any money so I took him for a drink and bought him some food. He was a vintage collector and a writer, but he is a musician, too, and he told me that even though his business is on its knees, he has never felt so creative. I think that’s inspiring. For me fashion had become too narrow. Everything had to be so fucking luxurious, and the whole creative and expressive part disappeared.

There is something intrinsically Swedish about Acne that I can’t put my finger on. Can you explain?
I am Swedish! I think that our clothing is functional and related to architecture. It is graphic, but I wouldn’t say it's minimal, which people often say it is. Maybe it's a lack of growing up with couture and extravagance. We had this plan from the start that everyone is on this journey and we know that we’re not perfect and next season we might be more or less interesting. We accept things as imperfect, we almost treasure it. I don’t think people take us too seriously.

Really, even now?
It's only clothing, you know. If you try to keep up with all the amazing and creative people you'll lose your personality, your focus and your ability to find something a little bit personal.

So there's no master plan?
Our plan is to work with people we like and admire. Acne is built on other people. I feel the spirit of everyone I work with. Now we are designing furniture, and for me it's so much fun! Few people have the luxury of trying out different disciplines. If I worked for a big house, it wouldn’t be appropriate to try out different things as there would be a heritage to respect.

Or maybe you get bored easily.
It might be a bit of that.

How do you see the company growing? You mentioned perfume earlier. Will we see that soon?
I am really interested in it, but I think those kinds of brand extensions feel very commercial, so we’re not doing perfume for now. We have lots of other projects lined up that I’m really excited about, but we are taking things slowly. I don’t want Acne to be super mega and absolutely everywhere. In the end, people will find you.

I think Acne has changed the price people expect to pay for quality.
If we’ve done that then I am very proud, especially if they are buying pieces that they are going to wear for a long time.

Do people shop differently from country to country?
In some places. New York is made up of different societies—Chelsea, Brooklyn, the Village, etc—and I don’t think we have reached all of those groups yet. But everywhere we are, we are attracting a really diverse community. That means that we are doing something right.

When is London getting its Acne store?
We’d really like to do that, but we need to find a location. A while ago we were thinking about Mount Street [in Mayfair]. But now when I go there, there doesn’t seem to be anyone walking around. Everyone is in Scott’s restaurant. That’s the only place on the street that's always busy!

You were in bands for a number of years. Do you still play guitar?
Yes, of course. Music is meditation for me. If I’m tired or really excited about something I’ll go to my cellar and play music for hours and hours.

What are you listening to at the moment?
I’m sorry, I have been listening to Metallica. I just really like their latest album. I bought a drum set and that is why I’m listening to them, to practice.

Is there anything you wish you had done differently?
Definitely. I wish I had known more when I started. It sounds sad, but I still wish I had had a fashion education. Of course, there is strength in not coming from a fashion background, but at the same time I am missing some skills.

It’s never too late to go back to school, Jonny!
Haha! That’s just what my mother said.

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