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Saturday, March 7, 2009

Paris Fashion Week: Day 4

By Rebecca Voight...

It was like a perfect Saturday morning in front of the TV as a child. Jeremy Scott‘s Mouse Trap collection was his best to date. He sent out a gang of Minnies and Mickeys that was cheap, cheerful and full of American staples like romper dresses, perfecto jackets and sneakers from his collection for Adidas in graphic black, white and red—with Rainbow Brites making guest appearances.

Now that his cartoon prints are in their second season on Longchamp canvas bags—the favorite tote of every young girl in Paris—Scott has reestablished his connection to the City of Light, which is where he began in the late 1990s. Since then he has perfected his own print-based style. This time he put cell phone faces on taxi-yellow T-shirts and covered the bags with big telephone receivers. His style is basic, easy and recession-proof in second-skin black and canvas. For his finale, Scott paid homage to Patrick Kelly (the black American designer from the late 80s who also made his name in Paris) by reprising Kelly's multicolored button trompe l'oeil mosaics in bustier shapes and tuxedos.

Jeremy Scott

Ann Demeulemeester is more wrapped up than ever in clothes that are tied like presents. This season she produced silky ethnic embroideries in black on black, curvy fencer's jackets in what looked like wet seal and vests made entirely of little bells. The pants she has always done, low-crotch wraparounds, couldn't be more à propos in this harem-draped season.

Ann Demeulemeester

Veronique Branquinho, who's just been made artistic director at the storied Belgian leathergoods house of Delvaux, finished off Saturday in white satin fit for, as she described it, “a warm-blooded ice queen.” All the Branquinho standards were present: capes, faux bourgeois-pleated skirts and then she took off with Mongolian lamb fur, which puffed up the collars of wrap coats, took over the sleeves and even snaked up the back of spike heels. Branquinho's hot little ice queen is very night-for-day in satin sheaths with sequin insets everywhere, 20s' flapper wraparound dresses and leggings with diamond-shaped peepholes up the back.

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Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Getting Busy

By Hynam Kendall...

Humble beginnings scrawling spray-can silhouettes on Paris walls are a distant memory for Fafi, who's basking in the glow of a successful foray into mainstream media by creating the lithe, strutting version of Lily Allen in Mark Ronson's video for Oh My God. She's also helming fashion and beauty campaigns for Adidas, MAC cosmetics and Luella, and sits assuredly at number ten on The Observer’s Who’s Cool Now Hot 50, above media-savvy contemporaries Lovefoxx, Santogold and Adam Neate. Not bad for a girl who does her day job "for fun."

“Yes, sex is a signifier. But not sex sex. It's not pornography,” Fafi pointedly urges in what can only be described as a sexy accent, dulcet and melodic. She then laughs a laugh that summons her assistants, who escort her and her guest—in the guise of Dictaphone-wielding journalist—to a meeting room, the same room that serves as her home-away-from-home when work is heavy, as it is today. “Sexy, funny and sometimes aggressive. That’s how I describe my style,” she continues in short breaths, as though the five-minute interval between her responses never happened.

Time is of the essence for an up-and-comer like Fafi (“Am I still an up-and-comer? Surely I’ve up and come by now.”). Her every waking moment is spent between interviews, phone calls, emails, photo shoots and listless appointments, all noted and accounted for in her hand-held calendar, with its color-coded post-its and cellotape strands. So busy is she that she alerts her international curator Melina to help answer to my questions. Fafi, it seems, is going to be late for a cover shoot accompanying an in-depth piece about her new sneaker range for Adidas, which "will be amazing,” she assures me in a seductive Lolita twang that leaves vowels suspended in mid-air. On top of that, one of her assistants says, she has a MAC collection to launch in the Middle East and subsequently bring to America. Moreover, she must explore her collaboration with New York-based brand M.O.B. and concentrate on pieces for her solo gallery show in Paris come December.

Then, of course, she must travel the world, for no other reason than she wants to see it. "I always travel around the world. It punctuates the end of a project and it keeps me sane,” she enthuses, flicking her hair the way the boys like. She is undeniably a wanted woman. “It's just my job,” she casually coos before dashing to her next appointment, another meeting of minds indeterminate from her sea of exchanges that make up her every day.

Before she's gone, I manage to ask whether or not she is deigned to fight the cause for street art and risk suffering the same de-evolution of art critique as graffiti artists like Banksy before her. "This art is a way to express myself,” she says. “I will go on to multiply the mediums of my art: canvas, walls, bags, stationery, clothes, make-up—as long as they are quality mediums. Graffiti is such a base term. People put it in a box and think it can only go so far. It doesn't need to remain on walls. I’m graffiti and not. Yes and no. I'm giving life to a new medium that is just X.” And with that, she is gone, her words lingering.

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Wednesday, April 30, 2008

In both good and sad news, adidas' Liad (Lee) Krispin is being whisked away from New York to head up the Y-3 communications department at adidas' headquarters in Germany. At the Submercer on Saturday, fiends converged and submerged to bid Lee farewell and get some face time—his face—with these tees and totes by Dana Veraldi, seen here (left) with Y-3's Theodora Sopko...

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Tuesday, February 5, 2008

This just in from Adidas. For today's New York store launch, Y-3 introduces a limited-edition shoe (50 pairs only) made from the Japanese denim found in Yohji Yamamoto's atelier. The unisex shoe, called Nice to Meet You, retails for $500 and is available only at the new Y-3 store (317 West 13th Street, NYC)....

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We love Glass Candy so much we could eat a whole bag of her, and not only because she contributed music to our latest multimedia fashion shoot, Bright Angles. Here she is at last night's launch of Adidas Originals' new denim line by Diesel. Chromeo, in the other photo, also performed. How much do you love his his legs (the ones on his keyboard, that is)?

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