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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Hint Tip: Gotscho

In this era of conglomerate-sponsored art, French artist Gotscho is that rare breed, a stylish loose cannon whose take on fashion consumption has a decidedly sinister tinge. Gotscho has been putting clothes center stage in his installations since the 90s, through collaborations with Maison Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, to name a few.

For this month's Carré Rive Gauche, an annual group show of 120 galleries (antiques and fine art) on Paris's Left Bank, gallerist Eric Allart turned his space over to Gotscho to show his dark and mysterious "Ladies First" series (through June 19). In one piece, fragments of silk slip through fitting-room doors as though the customer has dematerialized through the looking glass like a repentant shopaholic desperate to get out. Nearby, a silver rolling rack sports a dozen seemingly banal garment bags with a row of identical black pumps ready for transport, one atop the other. It's only on closer inspection that you find the bags have an embroidered burkha slit at eye level, and the shoes are fused together in a permanent state of travel readiness.

Which begs the question: does Gotscho love or hate la mode? "I'm on both sides. I'm eternally attracted yet always looking for an escape," he says. "I was shocked the first time I saw a woman wearing a burkha. I didn't understand how it was possible, but I wanted to say something about it diplomatically. A garment bag is for travel and shoes are for walking, so both are about movement. What you have here is the possibility of movement, but the reality of immobility."

For the upcoming couture shows in Paris, Bruno Frisoni, artistic director of French shoe house Roger Vivier, will unveil his own pair of Gotschoesque-fused footwear, for those who prefer to look at stilettos than wear them.

—Rebecca Voight


Ladies First W10 (2007), Ladies First W31 (2007)


Odalisque (2007)

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Monday, May 18, 2009

Freak Show

Lions and tigers...er, patterns and colors and armor, oh my! Illustrations by Kuanth


dress Christopher Kane
dress Chanel, hat John Galliano, shoes (orange) Lanvin, shoes (yellow) Pierre Hardy, boots Bruno Frisoni



dress & shoes Alexander McQueen, hat Dior
dress & shoes Balmain, tights Jean Paul Gaultier



dress Basso & Brooke
dress Gareth Pugh


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Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Hint Tip: Barbie at Colette

Barbie may have turned 50, but you'd see a Republican in France before you'd ever see a wrinkle on her face. To celebrate 50 years of eternal youth and impossible beauty, colette has assembled a Barbie Room on the first floor with all kinds of limited-edition, Barbie-branded goodies: a line of clothes and accessories from Jeremy Scott, a Bless hairbrush (well, a brush made of hair), Stila make-up, bow ties from Alexis Mabille, a Goyard trunk, Bruno Frisoni stilettos and so on. Meanwhile, in the gallery upstairs, Karl Lagerfeld has put together a Barbie and Ken photo exhibit of a life-sized cardboard Barbie posing with male model Baptiste Giabiconi as Ken. And on March 12 only, original Barbie and Ken dolls will be on display in the main window. Don't get any ideas, though. A security guard will be watching them like his life depended on it—and it probably does.

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