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Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Headline Trip

Carine Roitfeld shares her sought-after style secrets. And although they involve more than smudged eyeliner and see-through clothes, they don't hurt either. [Times UK]

It's all grunge and glory for Kate Moss and her latest Topshop offering. [Vogue UK]

Mary J. Blige is teaming up with Gucci for an old-fashioned bash—a sign that Fashion Week is returning to normal? [Fashion Week Daily]

The new Vogue Hommes Japan channels hard-hitting glamour and pole-dancing realness—no word if Madonna choreographed. [Nicola Formichetti]

Munchkin muses The Olsens get their props with a Cathy Horyn preview of The Row. (And here, because we couldn't resist, is a funny old pic of them working Napolean-Smurf chic.) [On the Runway]

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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Our Favorite Things...

that French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld divulged to Thomas Persson and Jonny Johansson in the latest Acne Paper (issue 8, summer '09), which just launched in New York:

  • I am sorry Acne, but I don't wear jeans...However, I think that jeans is one of the most important items of clothing today and that is also why we have done an issue just about jeans.
  • I never wear miniskirts because they make me look older.
  • I am skinny, and all my girls are skinny. People think I weigh my girls in the office but I do not.
  • When I started doing all the Gucci campaigns with Tom Ford and Mario Testino we pushed so much and after that everyone coped it...A lot of girls started to shave their pussy in different ways after that so it really became a trend. Many artists played with the pictures too, so it was fun.
  • My dream is to be a strong Helmut Newton woman. For me this is the woman for Vogue. I never worked with Newton but I would have liked to because I love his humour and his idea of woman.
  • I think sometimes I need a psychiatrist just to understand what I did in my pictures. You know, I have been repetitive about eroticism. And knives...I hate knives.
  • Fantasy is better than real life. When I do a fashion shoot the girl is like an actress, this fantasy of who she is and what she is doing. Perhaps the reader only sees the clothes but for me everything has a meaning. I am a big dreamer.



  • (Read our Q&A with Thomas Persson circa the previous issue six month ago.)

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    Wednesday, March 18, 2009

    Final Thoughts

    Style correspondent PLAY rounds up Paris Fashion Week...

    The Mood
    So yes, Paris had to tighten its belt in this nasty economic climate, which meant more presentations and fewer runway shows. But naturellement, everyone pretended they weren't personally affected. And actually, the reality for the average fashion editor is akin to Franz Kafka’s diary entry from August 2, 1914: "Germany declares war on Russia. Afternoon: swimming lessons."

    Tweet a Trend
    Like anyone else, I want to know what's new. But I never thought I'd be turning to my cell phone to read pedestrian chit-chat on Twitter. This was a case of the early bird getting the trend. In fact, the trend this season was Twitter.

    Celebrity Fatigue
    I first spotted Kanye West and entourage gatecrashing their way into Viktor & Rolf. It turned out Kanye was causing havoc everywhere. He was the new Bruno. Meanwhile, at Chanel, I almost got crushed by paparazzi surrounding Lily Allen, before swarming around Kate Moss in the front row. It left me wondering how more celebs don't end up train wrecks like Amy Winehouse.

    Queen Beth
    But the celebrity had to be Love cover star Beth Ditto, as if following the season's unofficial motto: It ain't over till the fat lady sings. Apparently her mission was to show the outside world that the old cliché of fashion being a gated community for diet-obsessed, humor-free folks is out of touch. Ditto's finest moment was performing with her band The Gossip at the Fendi party. I wanted to tweet: "OMGOMG!!! ditto does britney! nipplegate any sec!!"

    She's Got the Look
    Sometimes the best way to see where fashion is going is to follow a fashion editor. Based on my stalking of Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Anna Piaggi, you should think preppy, mix decades (i.e. 40s and 80s for a Casablanca-meets-Top Gun look), don double-breasted blazers (like Stella McCartney's), throw on a biker jacket and, I’m afraid to say, slip into harem pants. Key colors? Black, greige and noir tobacco, which is taking over for camel, now considered not crisis-appropriate—put that in your pipe and smoke it.


    Anna Piaggi (©PLAY)

    Big Top
    If designers have their say this fall, we'll be wearing plastic bags over our heads (Hussein Chalayan), bunny ears (Louis Vuitton), S&M masks (Jean Paul Gaultier) and Leigh Bowery sex-doll lips (Alexander McQueen).

    Power Failure
    As an early-adopter of Maison Martin Margiela's leather leggings and 80s' shoulders for fall 08, I'm all for power looks. But after witnessing editor after editor working huge shoulders and oh-so-fierce platforms, I got over it fast. It felt like Art Basel last year, when I counted 20 Louis Vuitton Richard Prince bags in under two hours.

    Fur Alarm
    What the heck was the idea behind the over-presence of statement fur? Was it to prove one’s immunity to chilly economic winds? Only very few got it right, like Carine Roitfeld, who strode across Tuileries park looking fit to squash the squeeze.

    Carine Roitfeld (©PLAY)

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    Thursday, March 5, 2009

    Paris Fashion Week: Day 1

    By Rebecca Voight...

    Gareth Pugh cranked up the smoke machine before presenting his fall collection as a short film, picking up where he left off from his wicked men's collection in January, including pointy-nail studded leathers—ouch! Pugh’s always favored balloon shapes—he once had his models walk down an inflated catwalk—and this time the puffed-up looks, as well as cropped jackets and cape-like coats, came in bronze, worn by model Natasa Vojnovic.




    Gareth Pugh

    Kris Van Assche sent out billowy silk jumpsuits in various shades of charcoal, as well as transparent military shirts—all of which looked lighter than air. And for the girl who can't decide whether to wear a skirt or pants, he somehow managed to combine both in one piece. A skant? Pirt? Pulotte?


    Kris Van Assche

    Martine Sitbon had all Paris' It-girls sitting front row for her Rue du Mail show, including the lovely Zoe Cassavetes, who's currently living in Paris. Sitbon showed flesh and cream-colored hooded jackets over leggings worn with silver foil hot pants. In fact, the collection was full of hoods and black-on-black matte and shine—tough, chic and elegant.

    Prada wound up its four-city Iconoclasts series with snake-charmer Carine Roitfeld's “rethink” for Paris' Avenue Montaigne store. Roitfeld, who never goes by halves, cleared out the entire place and turned it into a reptile shelter. “I thought about the snake prints in the spring collection and based the whole thing on real versus fake,” she told me. That meant live fat snakes encased in small plexi-cages and fashionably creepy snake-print rubber flooring throughout, with green lighting that gave everybody in the room a reptilian glow. The focal point was model (and dancer) Karlie Kloss, in an up-do and snake-print unitard, who slithered around the room in a hot and bothered way.

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    Wednesday, February 18, 2009

    Hint Gallery: Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld

    Last night, Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld presented the works of three friends—P.C. Valmorbida (aka Theodora Richards' squeeze), David Mushegain and Salim Langatta—in an exhibit called, naturally, The Works of Three Photographers...


    Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld & Lily Donaldson / David Mushegain & Julie Gilhart


    Stefano Tonchi & Carine Roitfeld


    Mario Testino, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld & Tom Sachs


    Milla Jovovich, Alexander Wang & interior designer Ryan Korban


    Lily Donaldson, Mario Testino & Lara Stone


    Theodora Richards & PC Valmorbi (her squeeze)


    Party girl Cecile Winckler & model Elyse Taylor

    photos Rush Zimmerman

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    Tuesday, February 17, 2009

    Prada Placement

    By Rebecca Voight...

    It's two down and two to go. For a series aptly called The Iconoclasts, Miuccia Prada picked four fashion editors—W’s Alex White, Katie Grand from the soon-to-be-legendary Love, Olivier Rizzo (who styles for V, VMAN, Another and Arena Homme Plus) and French Vogue’s editrix Carine Roitfeld—and asked them to “rethink” Prada stores in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

    This week Alex White invaded New York’s Soho store, while London’s Old Bond Street Prada was turned into a skate park by Katie Grand. The lowdown: White went heavily for liquid Lycra leopard-spot and snakeskin stockings in a red-light district mood, while she left Prada’s spring pumps in a delectable, chaotic heap. She also worked Mickey Mouse ears into hats and put a few of Prada's mannequins in white blindfolds—a signature touch?

    Meanwhile, Grand—along with David Sims—installed a plywood skateboard ramp in the Old Bond Street store. Presumably shoppers will bring their decks and forego those dangerous six-inch platforms that sent a few pretties tumbling during the last show. "I wanted to do a film with David Sims and we talked about having a girl dancing," says Grand, reached on a shoot the day after the London launch party. "We only had 2½ weeks and David was on vacation in Costa Rica, so we worked it out over a few desperate email conversations. Eventually he said he wanted to have girls skateboarding so we looked for models who knew how. But then I thought about Prada's display mannequins. They're so beautiful, so we put them on the ramp."

    Now back to Love. After a sneak preview at London's Dover Street Market and Harvey Nichols, Grand's new Condé Nast fashion mag will hit newsstands on Thursday, but for the moment she doesn't even have any copies left in her office. After several Valentine's launch soirées, she says she planning a bigger bash a bit later at Harvey Nicks. Love's first issue features ladies and gents who "don't have model-like dimensions," says Grand, who put a sumptuous, nearly nude Beth Ditto on the cover. Iggy Pop—who Grand points out "is a women's sample size"—and the statuesque Anjelica Huston appear inside.


    Prada New York, rethought by Alex White


    Prada London, rethought by Katie Grand

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    Tuesday, February 10, 2009

    Prada Hit Parade

    Prada seems to be setting its sights on total world domination. Not content with sending everyone on a scramble for lace last season, now the style juggernaut has enlisted four leading fashion editors—visionary image-makers in their own right—to take over and make over key Prada boutiques.

    More than glorified window dressing, The Iconoclasts will showcase individual interpretations of Prada's spring '09 collection, with its lush metallics and platforms worth the tumble. The project, to be fully documented on its website, will kick off with W's Alex White transforming the Soho boutique (2/13), followed by Love's Katie Grand in London (2/13) and Oliver Rizzo in Milan (2/25), culminating with Carine Roitfeld's triumphant conversion of the Avenue Montaigne store in Paris (3/5). These are your icons, folks.

    —Franklin Melendez

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    Saturday, January 24, 2009

    Paris Men's Week: Adam Kimmel

    By Rebecca Voight...

    Gerard Malanga's black-and-whites of artists, poets, musicians and general hangers-on in the late '60s Warhol orbit—Gregory Corso, Billy Name, a very young David Byrne, Patti Smith posing on the fire escape with her boyfriend Robert Mapplethorpe and Ed Hood—wouldn't be out of place in one of American designer Adam Kimmel's seasonal look books. Kimmel has been asking his downtown friends to pose since he launched his collection with shammy jumpsuits in 2002. They inspire his design and he's their label of choice.

    While Kimmel isn't the show-off type, his presentation fête last Thursday night at Galerie Thadeaus Ropac in Paris, billed as a "remake" of Malanga's "screen tests" from The Factory days, drew a throng of Paris and New York artists, models, actors and fashion folk. Malanga took Kimmel's look book pictures for fall 09: Glenn O'Brien, Aaron Young, Slater Bradley, Dan Colen and the voluptuous Leelee Sobieski couldn't be more timely in American-flag long johns, boxy corduroy jackets and plenty of denim and plaid flannel.

    Waris Ahluwalia, in town to present his latest bird-inspired jewelry collection during couture next week, was so busy with Leelee Sobieski and Lou Doillon that he nearly forgot he had a dinner date with Kanyé West. Waris is doing press in Europe and recently found himself interviewed for the evening news in Sweden, which reminded him that it was the first country he wanted to visit as an exchange student when he was sixteen. "My parents vetoed that right away though," he admits. "They knew why I wanted to go to Sweden and it wasn't for the culture."


    Adam Kimmel with the NY Times' Cathy Horyn and i-D's Terry Jones


    Adam Kimmel with Paris Vogue's Carine Roitfeld and Olivier Lalanne

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