A mixed blog of fashion goodies
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Monday, August 31, 2009

Headline Trip

Christy Turlington dons nothing but rawhide—i.e. biker leathers, nude male models. It must be time for YSL's new manifesto. [Facebook]

It's pretty good if a vest is the only thing questionable about the solo debut of The Strokes frontman Julian Casablanca at the launch of Opening Ceremony in Tokyo. [Pitchfork]

Christopher Kane may not own a bichon frisé, but he does have one kick-ass sister and a new line for Topshop. [Times UK]

Though he remains in fashion limbo, Olivier Theyskens will release a tome chronicling his epic vision. [WWD]

Who says models have to age? An eternal, if stiff, Kate Moss unveiled at Madame Tussauds just in time for Fashion Week. [Vogue UK]

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Friday, August 28, 2009

Headline Trip

A sneak peek at Ryan McGinley’s descent for his newest show. Thankfully, it doesn't end like The Descent, the slasher flick. [10men]

Return of the jock? If Karl Largerfeld says so, it must be true. [WWD]

Spike Jonze goes Wild for Opening Ceremony. [W]

There's an afterlife after all. Thanks to Christopher Kane, Versace's Versus line returns from the grave. [Fashion Week Daily]

Variety is reporting Heathers is heading to the small screen as a regular series. F%&$ us gently with a chainsaw! [Variety]

It’s an arty party for Chrissy Miller’s newest Sophmore collection, with a little help from pals Rita Ackermann and Aurel Schmidt. [Refinery 29]

Rita Ackermann and Aurel Schmidt for Sophomore

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Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Headline Trip

Anna Wintour to the guillotine? Not quite, but a financial consulting firm may put an end to her reign of decadence. Eat the cake while you can! [The Observer]

Threeasfour takes on a third wheel (or is it a fourth?), teaming up with Yoko Oko for their spring 2010 presentation. [Fashion Week Daily]

Donatella in her own words as interviewed by Christopher Kane. Those words are even better if you imagine them in the SNL accent. [Times UK]

Puma gives a sneak peek of its first efforts with Hussein Chalayan at the helm—a marriage made in tech heaven. [WWD]

Celebrating its 40th anniversary, GAP will unveil a concept shop on London’s Carnaby street—expect swinging exclusives from Pierre Hardy, Albertus Swanepoel and Pharrell Williams. [Vogue UK]

Hussein Chalayan for Puma

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Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Hint Video: NewGen Winners, 1/7

London Fashion Week is all aflutter, as it should be, about its upcoming 25th anniversary and the return of greats Brits—Burberry, Jonathan Saunders, Matthew Williamson, etc.—to its calendar, after years of showing abroad in New York, Milan or Paris.

Just as intriguing is the move from the cramped lawns of the Natural History Museum to the palatial Somerset House. Add to that the recently announced recipients of LFW's NewGen sponsorship, backed by Topshop in support of young design stars (previously won by Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon and Christopher Kane), and you have nothing short of hysteria.

And so we—or rather, fashion observer Marko Matysik and videographer Bjørn Solarin—caught up with a few of them, as well as with Sarah Mower, journalistic legend and just-appointed Ambassador of Emerging Talent for the British Fashion Council. Without further ado, we present the first of seven videos in as many days...

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Monday, May 18, 2009

Freak Show

Lions and tigers...er, patterns and colors and armor, oh my! Illustrations by Kuanth

dress Christopher Kane
dress Chanel, hat John Galliano, shoes (orange) Lanvin, shoes (yellow) Pierre Hardy, boots Bruno Frisoni

dress & shoes Alexander McQueen, hat Dior
dress & shoes Balmain, tights Jean Paul Gaultier

dress Basso & Brooke
dress Gareth Pugh

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Friday, March 20, 2009

Modelizer: Agyness Deyn

After her surprise Sao Paulo Fashion Week appearance walking for Ellus last January, Agyness Deyn spared a day to shoot for Plastic Dreams, the new magazine from crazy-cool plastic shoe label Melissa, who you'll remember from their collaborations with Vivienne Westwood and Zaha Hadid. We caught up with Aggy on set...

Are you officially the new face of London fashion?
I'm always around London designers like Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders and Henry Holland, who I'm really close with, so I guess I am. They're all good friends and I'm happy if we get to work together.

How often do you see the BF (Albert Hammond Jr. of The Strokes)?
Not much! We travel a lot. It's hard to be apart, but at least we never get fed up with each other. We're stuck together like glue when we do see each other. [Editor: um, this was before the recent breakup.]

Do you plan to take on the music business?
I've been playing music since I was sixteen. I had my own band, Lucky Knitwear, but it was just for fun. I don’t want to be a rock star.

What have you been listening to?
This band from my hometown, Manchester, called Maupa, and The Postal Service. I couldn't tell you why I like it, but I definitely recommend it.

Tried any Brazilian food yet?
I've had a lot of seafood, but I'm dying to try feijoada. I just have one day off and that's the only thing I want to do before I leave!

—André do Val

photo by Miro, styling by Dani Ueda, make-up by Robert Estevao

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Sunday, February 22, 2009

London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane

Economic doom and gloom means self-justification is very much in vogue—cue spurious theories linking the shrinking economy with changing cuts and colors. In this spirit, fashion editors have even begun to embrace their role as critics and actually critique. (Although, ironically, the big advertisers seem to have had their best shows in years.) And so the predictable praise for Christopher Kane should be understood to mean a little more this year.

Kane's show started just fifteen minutes late, which in fashionland is waaaay early (ergo, the world's most nouveau fashionista, Kanye West, was left standing). The dedication to punctuality by one of London's biggest names indicates the level of professionalism at which Kane feels he needs to be operating. And while his status as yesterday's Next Big Thing is dangerous, his fall collection succeeded in elevating the designer beyond all that. He's even starting to grow out of his over-reliance on the party dress.

With the key trends already mapped out at the New York shows—most notably "classic" pieces in dark and neutral colors that supposedly everyone is going to want—Kane managed to work in his greatest strengths: cut, proportion and complexity. The result was a mixture of jackets, knitwear, tweed and lots of texture. Now there's a wardrobe change you can believe in.

Which isn't to say Kane's market doesn't have cravings. An abundance of cashmere, velvet, vinyl, geometric black detailing and a mix-and-match of metallics will quench any sartorial fixes that may crop up.

By Daryoush Haj-Najafi...

Christopher Kane

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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane

Daryoush Haj-Najafi...

Time to fess up. I've never worn a dress. As such, womenswear has always been a bit too abstract for me. It reads more like art, hence my love of Gareth Pugh and Balenciaga. (Some have even suggested I take fashion too seriously. Could this be why?) I also dig the celebrity aspect of fashion designers. Who hasn't asked, What would Raf do? Or argued when arranging the furniture, insisting that, no, the sofas are not too far apart because Karl Lagerfeld would have them like that?

The point is, I could well not know what I'm talking about. But I have noticed that, after Kane's first show, when he wowed the fashion world with his mix of Azzedine Alaïa references and the genuinely new, he's embraced, of all things, the circle—or scallops, according to the fashion crowd. Sometimes they're big circles, sometimes small, sometimes in leather and sometimes in cut-out paper chain style. It's his thing. And can we have moment for the gorilla face prints, with their dental close-ups? Okay, so they're not gladiator sandals, but they might just be the new skull motif.

For this reason, Kane is excellent at branding—branding recognizable from twenty paces, and that's worth big bucks in the women's game. After all, Prada's output often looks shocking six months before it becomes the norm. Kane also does not bore; each show is more of a departure than the last. But who is the Kane woman? His are clever party dresses, even envy dresses, but are they become-more-you dresses? Such questions didn't seem to matter at the show, at least judging from the oohs and aahs garnered by a layered op-art circle dress in black and nude, or the marabou-trimmed dresses, particularly firemen trousers in intense hazard orange. These were Kane at his best: girly yet sharp.

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