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Saturday, February 21, 2009

New York Fashion Week: Rad Hourani

As I’m about to get my post-show turn with Rad Hourani, I'm brushed aside—quite unceremoniously, I might add—by a small army of PR assistants ushering in Vogue's European Editor-at-Large, Hamish Bowles. As his glamorous title suggests (and which I note for sheer envy), he's hardly a rare sighting during Fashion Week. Yet, with his penchant for tortoise shell and tweed, it was a bit surprising to see him standing backstage among Hourani's conceptual feats of architectural knits, black leather, geometric cut-outs and precarious unisex heels. The look is hard, uncompromising, aggressive and rapturous.

But then, Hourani's fall '09 show was already causing quite a stir. He had refined his lexicon while expanded his vocabulary with complex layers entwined with accessories, jewelry and metallic flashes—all overseen by legendary stylist Patti Wilson, who consulted on the show. Longtime collaborator with Steven Meisel, she's been responsible for championing a unique brand of dark glamour—the perfect complement to Hourani's vision. The result was even more concentrated Hourani goodness, as he noted, once I finally reached him: “It was a continuation from the beginning, but I felt like doing more, having a bit of fun but in a slick way.”

But this hadn't solved the Bowles mystery, so at the after-party at Gold Bar, I wondered aloud to Hourani if we'd be spotting the impeccably groomed Monsieur Dapper with a new dark look. “He did come by the showroom to try on some of the collection,” Hourani answered. Even the boots? “Well, boys have gotten quite good at walking in those heels!”

—Franklin Melendez





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Sunday, February 15, 2009

New York Fashion Week: Day 3

Love was in the air on Valentines Day. Who wore red in support of l'amour? Hamish Bowles had a red origami pocket square, Meredith Melling-Burke toted a red patent handbag and Fabiola Beracasa sported Vreeland-red lipgloss. For the rest of the fashion flock it was mostly bloodshot eyes from a night of debauchery. Blackberries were lost, editors were escorted out for falling too much (so not me!) and others simply made out with strangers in public.

We also saw some major fashion yesterday. For her VPL line, former stylist and old-skool Boy Bar door gal Victoria Bartlett showed a drag-a-rific collection of sheer and body-hugging pieces, including one dress with a back made out of hair. Unbeweavable! There were also accessories resembling rocks wrapped in jersey.


VPL

Spurr was, well, classic Simon Spurr. This editor was hot for one particularly modern black tweed suit that he'll wear for eons.

Loden Dager was another hot-to-trot show, held in the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, the perfect setting for the workwear-inspired collection—in cashmere!


Loden Dager

Finally it was a drive-by to Elise Overland to cringe at the models in impossibly high trannie pumps and gobs of loaned Alexander Calder jewelry before a quiet dinner at La Bottega, where the entire Club Sandwich crew was dining and prepping for Sunday night's blow-out at Norwood.


Elise Overland

—Cator Sparks

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Hint Gallery: Claro Rio Summer

Natalia Vodianova, hubbie Justin Portman and their three kids just spent a weekend in Rio for the first annual Claro Rio Summer, the beach collections of Brazil’s hottest labels, masterminded by advertising exec Nizan Guanaes. It was also a model-lover's paradise as homegrown babes Isabeli Fontana, Michelle Alves, Fernanda Tavares, Izabel Goulart, Fernanda Motta, Ana Claudia Michels, Daiane Conterato, Barbara Berger and Viviane Orth stalked the runways. Even the front row was also a gift for the hysterical local press, with Valentino, Hamish Bowles, Hilary Alexander and Colette's Sarah Leffer hitting most of the shows and glittering dinner parties...


Valentino / Lady Gabriella Windsor


Ana Claudia & Isabeli @ Totem / Fernanda @ Isabela Capeto / Barbara @ Osklen


Hilary Alexander


Renata & Rojane @ Triya / Alex @ Carlos Miele


Daiane & Barbara @ Carlos Miele


Isabeli & Natalia / Michele @ Salinas


Natalia Vodianova & Hamish Bowles


Marcelle @ Rosacha / Isabela Capeto

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