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Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Headline Trip

Putting her leggings empire on hold, Lindsay Lohan has been hired as “artistic advisor” at Ungaro, according to a press release we got today. We're so with you, Esteban.

Only a Frenchman could document the 24-hour chaos leading up to a runway show. See Proenza Schouler, Rykiel, Gaultier and Lagerfeld captured in all their glory. [Sundance]

Did Kate Moss storm out of the GQ Men of the Year Awards in London because she was offended by a joke or because she couldn't find her lipstick? You decide. [Telegraph UK]

Tim Barber—photographer, downtown denizen and Tiny Vices honcho—launches his new online studio. [Tim Barber]


photo Tim Barber

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Friday, August 21, 2009

Headline Trip

While rumors are brewing that Haider Ackermann may be Martin Margiela's successor, sources close to the elusive Belgian insist that this is one of his elaborate hoaxes. Whatever the case, we hear the incognito king was at the Los Angeles boutique not long ago waiting on unsuspecting costumers.

The grapevine also has it that Jean Paul Gaultier’s upcoming Hermès show may be his last. Though unconfirmed, you'd be well-advised to stock up on cheeky equestrian looks, just in case. [Fashion Week Daily]

Marc Jacobs after-party + Lady Gaga = signs of economic recovery. Or last gasp? You be the judge. [The Cut]

Designers Carolyn Massey and James Long were singled out by the British Fashion Council for Topman’s NewGen Men. Previous winners include every great Brit of the last twenty years. [WWD]

Apparently Zoolander isn't enough to dissuade models from pursing the slash-actress title. Irina Lazareanu and Agyness Deyn are both heading to a multiplex near you. As a last warning, we refer you to Cindy Crawford's infamous debut. [Grazia]

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Friday, July 10, 2009

Headline Trip

  • Legendary 90's supe Kristen McMenamy racks up 30ish pages in the latest Italian Vogue, shot by Steven Meisel, in a story called The Legend—what else? [Italian Vogue]
  • Jean Paul Gaultier comes to the defense of couture and Lacroix. [Reuters]
  • Rumor has it Alexander Wang has nabbed Karl Templer to style his September show. [WWD]
  • Daniel Radcliffe loves poetry and, it's just been revealed, has been writing it under a pen name. No, it has nothing to do with Harry Potter. [Rubbish]
  • Francesca Sorrenti: "Remembering my son Davide Sorrenti on the day he was born!" [Facebook]
  • If they haven't already, anyone with a heartbeat can now have Terry Richardson. Uncle York has made the pervy photog into a doll, complete with mutton chops, tats and a strategically placed camera. [Uncle York]

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    Thursday, June 25, 2009

    Paris Men's Week: Jean Paul Gaultier

    Jean Paul Gaultier can't stop putting boys in girls' clothes. Following skirts, his new feminine preoccupations are bustiers and halter tops, which he pairs with broad-shouldered suits for men who want to show off their pecs and don't mind if they have to dress like a girl to do it. His sailor boys look kind of girlish, too, in pants so wide they could almost be skirts and school uniform-style midi blouses. The collection's masculine side comes through in 60s futuristic-style tailoring—à la Pierre Cardin or André Courrèges—in sparkling white, brights and candy stripes.

    —Rebecca Voight



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    Monday, May 18, 2009

    Freak Show

    Lions and tigers...er, patterns and colors and armor, oh my! Illustrations by Kuanth


    dress Christopher Kane
    dress Chanel, hat John Galliano, shoes (orange) Lanvin, shoes (yellow) Pierre Hardy, boots Bruno Frisoni



    dress & shoes Alexander McQueen, hat Dior
    dress & shoes Balmain, tights Jean Paul Gaultier



    dress Basso & Brooke
    dress Gareth Pugh


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    Wednesday, March 18, 2009

    Final Thoughts

    Style correspondent PLAY rounds up Paris Fashion Week...

    The Mood
    So yes, Paris had to tighten its belt in this nasty economic climate, which meant more presentations and fewer runway shows. But naturellement, everyone pretended they weren't personally affected. And actually, the reality for the average fashion editor is akin to Franz Kafka’s diary entry from August 2, 1914: "Germany declares war on Russia. Afternoon: swimming lessons."

    Tweet a Trend
    Like anyone else, I want to know what's new. But I never thought I'd be turning to my cell phone to read pedestrian chit-chat on Twitter. This was a case of the early bird getting the trend. In fact, the trend this season was Twitter.

    Celebrity Fatigue
    I first spotted Kanye West and entourage gatecrashing their way into Viktor & Rolf. It turned out Kanye was causing havoc everywhere. He was the new Bruno. Meanwhile, at Chanel, I almost got crushed by paparazzi surrounding Lily Allen, before swarming around Kate Moss in the front row. It left me wondering how more celebs don't end up train wrecks like Amy Winehouse.

    Queen Beth
    But the celebrity had to be Love cover star Beth Ditto, as if following the season's unofficial motto: It ain't over till the fat lady sings. Apparently her mission was to show the outside world that the old cliché of fashion being a gated community for diet-obsessed, humor-free folks is out of touch. Ditto's finest moment was performing with her band The Gossip at the Fendi party. I wanted to tweet: "OMGOMG!!! ditto does britney! nipplegate any sec!!"

    She's Got the Look
    Sometimes the best way to see where fashion is going is to follow a fashion editor. Based on my stalking of Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Anna Piaggi, you should think preppy, mix decades (i.e. 40s and 80s for a Casablanca-meets-Top Gun look), don double-breasted blazers (like Stella McCartney's), throw on a biker jacket and, I’m afraid to say, slip into harem pants. Key colors? Black, greige and noir tobacco, which is taking over for camel, now considered not crisis-appropriate—put that in your pipe and smoke it.


    Anna Piaggi (©PLAY)

    Big Top
    If designers have their say this fall, we'll be wearing plastic bags over our heads (Hussein Chalayan), bunny ears (Louis Vuitton), S&M masks (Jean Paul Gaultier) and Leigh Bowery sex-doll lips (Alexander McQueen).

    Power Failure
    As an early-adopter of Maison Martin Margiela's leather leggings and 80s' shoulders for fall 08, I'm all for power looks. But after witnessing editor after editor working huge shoulders and oh-so-fierce platforms, I got over it fast. It felt like Art Basel last year, when I counted 20 Louis Vuitton Richard Prince bags in under two hours.

    Fur Alarm
    What the heck was the idea behind the over-presence of statement fur? Was it to prove one’s immunity to chilly economic winds? Only very few got it right, like Carine Roitfeld, who strode across Tuileries park looking fit to squash the squeeze.

    Carine Roitfeld (©PLAY)

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    Monday, March 9, 2009

    Backstage Beauty

    ...at Paris Fashion Week. Photos by Sonny Vandevelde...


    Jean Paul Gaultier


    Sonia Rykiel


    Viktor & Rolf


    Bernhard Willhelm


    Jeremy Scott

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    Saturday, January 24, 2009

    Fromance

    Jean Paul Gaultier backstage at his fall '09 men's collection, apparently channeling Gene Wilder...

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    Sunday, December 14, 2008

    Screen Saver, Part II

    By Cesar Padilla...

    For the second installment of my illuminating, hilarious and sometimes salacious Q&As with costumers (notice the vowels), I caught up with goth mama Arianne Phillips. And let me tell you it was no easy feat, considering she's constantly on the road styling for Madonna, Courtney Love or Lenny Kravitz (her former roommate). Plus she's one of the most sought-after costume designers in Hollywood, with film credits that include Girl, Interrupted, Hedwig and the Angry Inch and Walk the Line, which garnered her an Academy Award nomination in 2005. But caught up with her I did, and I made sure to cover all the bases. We talked candidly about everything from drugs and male idolatry to dressing the Material Girl and (not) doing Guy...

    You just finished a film last week. Can you tell me about it?
    It was the new Tom Ford film. It's his directorial debut and it was awesome. He's a natural director and it was so great to work with someone who has such an amazing vernacular for costumes and clothing. The story is so great. I've been attached to it for a while, since he chose to go for independent funding. It's based on the Christopher Isherwood novel A Single Man. Set in 1962, it stars Colin Firth and Julianne Moore. I guess I'm becoming the mid-century girl.

    What was your first film and how was the experience?
    Bail Jumper, a small indie film in New York that was very patched together. I had absolutely no experience other than the music videos I had styled. I was learning on the fly. It was down and dirty and I wanted more!

    What's your dream film?
    It would be a moody spectacle starring Cate Blanchett, Julianne Moore, Kate Winslet and Tilda Swinton, directed by Bob Fosse, Fellini or Kubrick, with cinematography by John Alcott, Sven Nykvist, Robbie Muller, Chris Doyle or Harris Savides. It would be a period piece on location in London, Paris or the south of France, with music by Bowie, Eno, Stephen Trask and Mozart.

    What's your worst moment on set?
    It was at the beginning of my film career. I was getting my trailer door kicked in by an angry actress who I neglected to get thermals for. The producer told me I should go home and not come back for a few days.

    What's your worst diva moment?
    Me? Diva? Never!

    Do you sew?
    Only in an emergency.

    What's the first thing you ever sewed?
    The holes in my rainbow toe socks circa 1976.

    I know you're into black. Do you ever wear color?
    No. Black, black, black! I'm a tired ol' goth!

    What did you want to be growing up?
    I wanted to be all my Halloween costumes—a witch, an actress and a princess.

    Who do you want to be when you grow up?
    In all seriousness, my mother. She is an awesome woman.

    What was on your walls when you were 15?
    There is a funny story about that because it was my 15th birthday exactly. I had very liberal hippie parents and I told my mom I wanted to do mushrooms. She said the only way I could take them was under her supervision, which is the same thing she did on my first date. I had to take them in the house and I had to get them myself because she wasn't going to score my drugs. So a few of my girlfriends came over for a sleepover and right as we were peaking my mom walked into the room and sat on the corner of my bed. There wasn't a inch of space on my walls that wasn't covered with a poster of a British rock star—Rod Stewart, The Bay City Rollers, Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, etc. We were listening to rock music and she decided that this was the time for her to give me her feminist dissertation on rock gods and male idolatry. In particular, you may know this poster, Robert Plant in the tightest pair of hip huggers, with the biggest bulge imaginable. My mom was going on about these men I didn't know on my wall and we were just tripping our brains out.

    Still into rock gods?
    Well, just last night I had a moment. [Night Ranger's] Sister Christian came on the radio and, I don't know, I just had a moment and turned it up.

    What's your biggest fashion faux pas, personally?
    A deconstructed hippie grunge plaid baby-doll dress or a collaged/decoupaged pair of wooden platforms that I wore in high school.

    What's your dream decade?
    The future.

    What's your guiltiest pleasure?
    Anything salty followed by a sugar chaser. All of my memories are built around food. Food is my inspiration.

    Best Courtney Love moment?
    We're at an Oscar party and she and Jack Nicholson are smoking cigars in the dark. Too many more to mention.



    Best Madonna moment?
    My first meeting with her and Jean-Paul Gaultier in her apartment in New York, listening to the Ray of Light CD before it was released, planning and discussing the costumes for the Frozen video.

    Worst Madonna moment?
    Being chased by rabid paparazzi in Italy en route to the MTV Europe Music Awards. I thought we were going to die in that car.

    What was working on Swept Away like?
    It was one of the best times I ever had. We were on a boat in the middle of the Mediterranean. It was a very intimate crew. I got permission to leave a week early and then I was called back when they decided to add a musical number at the very end. We needed an outfit and I couldn't find one so I ended up at the Versace showroom in Milan. I remember it was truffle season. It was awesome. See, all my memories are tied to food.


    Madonna in Swept Away

    Tell me your favorite outfit of this Madge tour.
    The sexy robot section, the crystal football shoulders and the Joan of Arc silver armor breastplate in the final section.

    Any onstage accidents?
    In 1989, Lenny Kravitz ripped a pair of vintage bell bottoms onstage and, to my shock and horror, he turned around and out popped the jewels!

    Your favorite rock band right now?
    Wilco, Goldfrapp, Vampire Weekend, The Ting Tings, Duffy.

    Who taught you air guitar?
    Jimmy page, of course!

    What's your next project?
    I'm flying to Rio to shoot the cover of W with Madonna and Steven Klein. It's our third W cover.

    Last question, and please be honest with me. I really want to bone Guy Ritchie. Do I stand a chance?
    No way.

    That sucks. Thanks, Arianne. See you in L.A. in a few weeks for mango margaritas.


    Sketch for Hedwig and the Angry Inch / still from Walk the Line / Arianne's Oscar nomination certificate

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    Thursday, December 4, 2008

    Hint Tip: Alexandre Vauthier

    Couture might be dying, but there's never a shortage of new blood. Enter Alexandre Vauthier, former first assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture and Thierry Mugler (private clients), who'll debut his own collection during Paris Couture Week in late January. We expect nothing less than theatrical genius by osmosis, but there's more. According to his publicist, Alexandre "holds the view that prices of couture clothes today are unrealistic and do not reflect the historical prices that clients paid in the past when whole wardrobes were ordered for the season." Okay, we think we get that. Plus he feels non-couture luxury labels have been ripping people off with inferior fabrics. When a couturier talks money, you know we're in for an economic face-plant of biblical proportions.

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    Sunday, October 5, 2008

    Paris Fashion Week: Hermès

    Pia Catton...

    Go-go gauchos roamed the Hermès runway, a long and dusty road covered with sand and dotted with cacti. Nary a lonesome doll was without a cowboy hat. Fringe, ponchos, bananas—all the trappings of the Wild West were here. Leather jackets and ponchos came in creamy shades of butter and tan. Scarf gowns were cinched with belts that sparkled with bits of silver.

    The show opened with Stephanie Seymour, followed by Naomi Campbell. They closed the show (in reverse order) wearing tiered halter gowns. Say what you will, their steady sex appeal made the other girls look like the walking dead from a gold-rush ghost town.

    It's debatable that fringe on a classic Hermès bag is a wise move. But Jean Paul Gaultier has to put all those leather goods into context season after season. And really, the Western theme has been off the radar since the last time Madonna left the gym wearing a cowboy hat. Ralph Lauren does it, but in a more turquoise-studded Americana sort of way. Here, the undercurrent was a certain Latin lustiness. The combination of feminine allure and masculine touches, like cigars, produced a frisson of sexuality, à la Zoro, plus bad guy, plus the captive princess—all in one bright orange box.

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