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Monday, July 6, 2009

Headline Trip

  • Daria Werbowy reminisces about the rubber nipples and bed of nails in her shoot with Helmut Newton—his last. [Telegraph UK]
  • Americans will use any excuse to hit the Paris couture shows. [WWD]
  • Jeremy Scott: "THOSE MF's WHO MADE THOSE FAKE ASS WINGED HIGH TOPS I SAW IN BERLIN IM GOING TO KICK YOUR MOTHER FUCKING ASSES AND BREAK YOUR WINGS OFF." [Twitter]
  • Cathy Horyn kicks it with our gal Louise Wilson in London. [NY Times]
  • Yeah, there was fashion photography in the East Germany. [Vice]
  • Because hats and nudity go great together, Karl Lagerfeld got models and celebs (mostly French, bien sur) to bare skin for Maison Michel.


  • Charlotte Muhl & Sean Lennon, by Karl Lagerfeld for Maison Michel

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    Monday, March 9, 2009

    Backstage Beauty

    ...at Paris Fashion Week. Photos by Sonny Vandevelde...


    Jean Paul Gaultier


    Sonia Rykiel


    Viktor & Rolf


    Bernhard Willhelm


    Jeremy Scott

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    Saturday, March 7, 2009

    Paris Fashion Week: Day 4

    By Rebecca Voight...

    It was like a perfect Saturday morning in front of the TV as a child. Jeremy Scott‘s Mouse Trap collection was his best to date. He sent out a gang of Minnies and Mickeys that was cheap, cheerful and full of American staples like romper dresses, perfecto jackets and sneakers from his collection for Adidas in graphic black, white and red—with Rainbow Brites making guest appearances.

    Now that his cartoon prints are in their second season on Longchamp canvas bags—the favorite tote of every young girl in Paris—Scott has reestablished his connection to the City of Light, which is where he began in the late 1990s. Since then he has perfected his own print-based style. This time he put cell phone faces on taxi-yellow T-shirts and covered the bags with big telephone receivers. His style is basic, easy and recession-proof in second-skin black and canvas. For his finale, Scott paid homage to Patrick Kelly (the black American designer from the late 80s who also made his name in Paris) by reprising Kelly's multicolored button trompe l'oeil mosaics in bustier shapes and tuxedos.


    Jeremy Scott

    Ann Demeulemeester is more wrapped up than ever in clothes that are tied like presents. This season she produced silky ethnic embroideries in black on black, curvy fencer's jackets in what looked like wet seal and vests made entirely of little bells. The pants she has always done, low-crotch wraparounds, couldn't be more à propos in this harem-draped season.


    Ann Demeulemeester

    Veronique Branquinho, who's just been made artistic director at the storied Belgian leathergoods house of Delvaux, finished off Saturday in white satin fit for, as she described it, “a warm-blooded ice queen.” All the Branquinho standards were present: capes, faux bourgeois-pleated skirts and then she took off with Mongolian lamb fur, which puffed up the collars of wrap coats, took over the sleeves and even snaked up the back of spike heels. Branquinho's hot little ice queen is very night-for-day in satin sheaths with sequin insets everywhere, 20s' flapper wraparound dresses and leggings with diamond-shaped peepholes up the back.

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    A Stylish Samedi

    In New York, front-row celebrity seating is not to be tampered with, but the French like to keep things mysterious, such as putting Kanye West in the second row at Comme des Garçons. While we waited for an outburst, ever-contrary Rei Kawakubo sent out blankets moonlighting as parkas. Earlier in the day, her protege Junya Watanabe had similar thoughts with swirling black parka dresses and oversized collars in a Victori-goth meets space-age presentation.


    Junya Watanabe

    Greece-born Sophia Kokosalaki pampered guests with champagne, strawberries and chocolate. Bubbly was a perfect way to start a sunny Paris afternoon at the Jardins des Tuileries. Kokosalaki presented her signature draping as well as a collection of party-favor hits, ranging from sheer and sculptural minidresses to bedazzled rocker-chic pants and jackets.

    Later in the afternoon, Colette was a madhouse. Not only were the weekend crowds milling about among the new Alexander Wang handbags, but there was a roster of events that deserved a fashion calendar in itself. Designers Emily Current and Merrit Elliot were on hand for a trunk show, and Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin were signing their new work for Stern magazine. Meanwhile, Erin Wasson for RVCA pieces were up on mannequins and the stylish Texan model herself made an appearance.

    Jeremy Scott kept his show lighthearted and childlike with color, polka dots and Mickey Mouse. The Disney motif will surely spill over into his after-party tonight at Regine's.

    —Bee-Shyuan Chang

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    Wednesday, March 4, 2009

    Hint Tip: Barbie at Colette

    Barbie may have turned 50, but you'd see a Republican in France before you'd ever see a wrinkle on her face. To celebrate 50 years of eternal youth and impossible beauty, colette has assembled a Barbie Room on the first floor with all kinds of limited-edition, Barbie-branded goodies: a line of clothes and accessories from Jeremy Scott, a Bless hairbrush (well, a brush made of hair), Stila make-up, bow ties from Alexis Mabille, a Goyard trunk, Bruno Frisoni stilettos and so on. Meanwhile, in the gallery upstairs, Karl Lagerfeld has put together a Barbie and Ken photo exhibit of a life-sized cardboard Barbie posing with male model Baptiste Giabiconi as Ken. And on March 12 only, original Barbie and Ken dolls will be on display in the main window. Don't get any ideas, though. A security guard will be watching them like his life depended on it—and it probably does.

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    Sunday, November 16, 2008

    Nose Candy

    Other than the venom-green walls of the elevator, color was scarce among the fashion set that gathered at the New Museum for the launch of Six Scents. Otherwise, with the olfactory collaboration between Seven New York, perfume factory Symrise and designers Gareth Pugh, Bernhard Willhelm, Preen, Jeremy Scott, Cosmic Wonder and Alexandre Herchcovitch wafting through the space, it might have been sensory overdose.

    Let's just state for the record that the fragrances smell great. For his own take, I tracked down Seven's Joseph Quartana, who curated the designer list. Mostly he seemed relieved to have finally finished the store's first foray into the esoteric world of molecules, calling the project a "cherry-popper." Okay, and how has the response to the eaux de toilette been so far? The early winners are Preen and Gareth Pugh, who happened to be hosting the soiree, so I asked him what his favorite smell in the world was and if it had inspired his creation. His response was touchingly disarming: "Yes, that would be the smell of my boyfriend Carson's hair." Aww.

    I then caught up with my old friend and downtown habitué Sophia Lamar, looking fantastic in an aubergine frock and shredded shoes of her own creation (now that's a positive recessionist measure). I asked her if she had a signature scent. Of course she does; she's forever been wearing Alexandra de Markoff perfume oil, which she mixes with Cacharel Pour Homme—you know, for that androgynous touch.

    —Suleman Anaya


    As Four's Gabi & Joseph Quartana


    Gareth Pugh & Carson


    The MisShapes

    photos Eddie Newton/Stylesightings.com

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    Friday, November 7, 2008

    Hint Tip: Six Scents

    The New Museum has it going on. Hot on the heels of their Elizabeth Peyton opening reception, where Marc Jacobs couldn't keep his hands off new squeeze Lorenzo Martone (and who can blame him?), comes the launch of Six Scents. We know you pored over our latest Beauty Duty, but just in case, Six Scents is the perfume collaboration between the scent masters at Symrise and six designers chosen by Seven New York. For the first in the annual partnership, the designers are Bernhard Willhelm, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Cosmic Wonder, Jeremy Scott, Preen and Gareth Pugh, who has hosting duties for the night...

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    Wednesday, October 1, 2008

    Paris Fashion Week: Jeremy Scott

    Sophia DeArborne...

    Jeremy Scott’s unique brand of cartoonish prints and over-the-top, satirical showmanship has always made his shows hilarious and poignant. And looking at the towering wigs and mini-dresses of his spring collection, I imagined an otherworldly meeting between Marty McFly’s visit to 2015 in Back to The Future and Madonna’s performance of Vogue at the 1990 MTV awards.

    Living up to the title, Let Them East Gas, the models were fitted with extra-large, Marie Antoinette-esque wigs and corresponding make-up. The show opened with 17th-century, Waterford-style scenes in blue and white (think grandma's tea set), followed by girls in Scott’s signature skintight mini-dresses printed with gasoline nozzles, polka dots, flowers or airplanes. He also included his new Ksubi jeans collaboration, black high-waisted skinny jeans with a pink rose print.

    The men were no exception. They, too, were fitted with the massive wigs and strutted out in signature Jeremy prints, pink-striped wrestling leotards and matching speedos with bleached out denim vests. They were reminiscent of the male play things Madonna had prance about on that MTV stage eighteen years ago.

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