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Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Headline Trip

Putting her leggings empire on hold, Lindsay Lohan has been hired as “artistic advisor” at Ungaro, according to a press release we got today. We're so with you, Esteban.

Only a Frenchman could document the 24-hour chaos leading up to a runway show. See Proenza Schouler, Rykiel, Gaultier and Lagerfeld captured in all their glory. [Sundance]

Did Kate Moss storm out of the GQ Men of the Year Awards in London because she was offended by a joke or because she couldn't find her lipstick? You decide. [Telegraph UK]

Tim Barber—photographer, downtown denizen and Tiny Vices honcho—launches his new online studio. [Tim Barber]

photo Tim Barber

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Monday, July 6, 2009

Headline Trip

  • Daria Werbowy reminisces about the rubber nipples and bed of nails in her shoot with Helmut Newton—his last. [Telegraph UK]
  • Americans will use any excuse to hit the Paris couture shows. [WWD]
  • Cathy Horyn kicks it with our gal Louise Wilson in London. [NY Times]
  • Yeah, there was fashion photography in the East Germany. [Vice]
  • Because hats and nudity go great together, Karl Lagerfeld got models and celebs (mostly French, bien sur) to bare skin for Maison Michel.

  • Charlotte Muhl & Sean Lennon, by Karl Lagerfeld for Maison Michel

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    Monday, June 29, 2009

    Headline Trip

  • Prada's Transformer cinema project launched in Seoul, South Korea, sans Megan Fox or other annoying starlets. [Prada]
  • Lower East Side boutique Project No. 8 to open a men's counterpart, No. 8b, at 38 Orchard St. on Thursday.
  • It was all a Blur, not mud, at the closing of Glastonbury. [NME]
  • Marlon Richards: "Glad I'm not at Jacksonbury." [Facebook]
  • A preview of Karl Lagerfeld's Hitchcockian Chanel campaign for fall, shot at his new Vermont estate for the second time...

  • Chanel, fall '09

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    Tuesday, March 10, 2009

    Black Magic

    Karl Lagerfeld is a busy man. He's just finished his seasonal triumvirate of Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and, this morning, Chanel, where we saw the usual paparazzi clusterfuck. This time they swarmed around Kate Moss, who remained cool and relaxed in her slick, noir tuxedo number. Black also dominated the runway, but colors soon progressed to pistachio green and then to ballerina pink. Suits were gussied up with accoutrements: lace, floppy bows and knit bowler hats—perhaps to match the new Mattress bag.


    Valentino may be retired, but the brand marches on with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli at the helm. Well, sort of. Sure, they stayed true to the archives with fancy opera coats, little black dresses and expensive fox-fur trim, but where was the famous Valentino red? A shocking statement, to say the least, but considering the dismal economy, it's probably better to do as every accountant wants: avoid the red, stay in the black.


    —Bee-Shyuan Chang

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    Sunday, March 8, 2009

    Paris Fashion Week: Day 5

    By Rebecca Voight...

    Sunday began in the Jardin des Tuileries, waiting outside in a light rain while the 10 am Karl Lagerfeld show was still rehearsing inside the “Ephemere” tent at 10:15. Overheard, a conversation between two American department store execs: “Do you know how much they're charging for umbrellas at the Ritz now? Thirty euros—they used to be free!” "Well, do you get the money back when you return them?” “No.”

    At least seeing fashion shows is still free. Lagerfeld’s show began with electro trio Metronomy strolling down the runway with the lead singing a snappy dirge into a vocoder. What followed were beautiful motorcycle helmet by Ruby, France's most stylish two-wheel gear purveyor. Only, in Lagerfeld’s hands, they were in fur to match square-shouldered vests and coats, some with fur sleeves. And he dipped into the Christmas tinsel to cover a jersey column dress like a band leader’s jacket, shown over Lagerfeld's familiar ankle-slit satin pants in dark gray or chocolate-brown. All this building up of luxurious materials and sport staples made for a rich warrior woman look.

    Karl Lagerfeld

    Dries Van Noten showed in the huge courtyard of the Lycée Carnot high school. And it's clear now he's moved on from ethnic embroideries and soft draping. His new structure is centered on a boxy, rectangular jacket which he takes through textured fabrics, snake-print and crocodile skin. He did a perfect camel trench and bathrobe coats, as well as a blouson turned into a dress. His large trousers are some of the most well-tailored in Paris and every girl sported a pair of thick-framed 50s-style sunglasses. While almost everybody in the audience was wearing black, Van Noten showed hot Moroccan colors for fall: persimmon, saffron, dusty pink and lime green.

    Dries Van Noten

    So, this has been a tricky, recession-deflated season, with brands scrambling to allot limited seating. The idea seems to be that since there are fewer journalists and buyers, it's best to show in a smaller venue to maintain a full house. Sonia Rykiel did the smartest thing and showed right in her Blvd Saint Germain flagship. I hung out with stylist Patti Wilson, who downed a striped bottle of Coke Light designed by Rykiel's daughter Nathalie, and we watched as models skipped around the store repeating phrases like “Under my sweater I'm nude” in English and French—with a mostly Eastern European accent. Patchwork, color-blocked ponchos, big Lurex-knitted sweaters and multicolored ruffles on hourglass black dresses were vintage 70's Sonia.

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    Fur Helmets and Leather Bums, Oh My

    While locals had the luxury of sleeping in, the fashion elite braved the Paris rain on Sunday for another kind of luxury: fur helmets! To the synthesized vocals of Oslo band Metronomy, Karl Lagerfeld's fall collection started with giant, statement-y fur hats and helmets, followed by witchy, wide-collared black dresses and jackets with the exaggerated shoulder that has been the defining Paris trend. As if to reassure the clutch-pearls set, the Kaiser came out for the finale in his trademark white-powdered coif, tanned skin and fingerless gloves.

    Karl Lagerfeld

    At the Carousel du Louvre, Esteban Cortazar set the mood Emanuel Ungaro with crystal chandeliers and girlish pink-orange lighting. Missing from many of the Paris shows this season, a crush of paparazzi accosted the front row before a parade of ruffled polka-dot blouses and shirred dresses came down the runway. True to the Ungaro tradition, Cortazar kept the colors bright, but updated the collection with voluminous tweaks on pleated miniskirts.

    Fresh from his retrospective at the Design Museum in London, Hussein Chalayan also favored thigh-baring minis. But in Chalayan's case, girlish fun was pushed aside in favor of powerful sexual silhouettes and molded neon leather bustiers and bums, created by the studio of Patrick Whitaker and Keir Malem. As usual, Chalayan also experimented with synthetic materials such as wood sequins.

    Hussein Chalayan

    —Bee-Shyuan Chang

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    Wednesday, March 4, 2009

    Hint Tip: Barbie at Colette

    Barbie may have turned 50, but you'd see a Republican in France before you'd ever see a wrinkle on her face. To celebrate 50 years of eternal youth and impossible beauty, colette has assembled a Barbie Room on the first floor with all kinds of limited-edition, Barbie-branded goodies: a line of clothes and accessories from Jeremy Scott, a Bless hairbrush (well, a brush made of hair), Stila make-up, bow ties from Alexis Mabille, a Goyard trunk, Bruno Frisoni stilettos and so on. Meanwhile, in the gallery upstairs, Karl Lagerfeld has put together a Barbie and Ken photo exhibit of a life-sized cardboard Barbie posing with male model Baptiste Giabiconi as Ken. And on March 12 only, original Barbie and Ken dolls will be on display in the main window. Don't get any ideas, though. A security guard will be watching them like his life depended on it—and it probably does.

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    Friday, December 5, 2008

    God's Gift

    This is Brazilian surfer boy Marlon Teixeira, 17, the exclusive new face of Dior Homme by Kris Van Assche for all of 2009. The campaign was shot by Karl Lagerfeld in November and this photo is his gift to Marlon, who, by the way, has been working for only a year and hasn't even participated in Brazil's Fashion Weeks. Welcome...

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    Saturday, November 22, 2008

    Chanel on the Brain

    More from Rebecca Voight's convo with Karl Lagerfeld at the Monnaie de Paris...

    Lagerfeld says he "helped out" Anna Mouglalis with her costumes for the role of Chanel in the upcoming biopic "Chanel and Stravinsky, L'Histoire Secrete," directed by Jan Kounen. But he's much more excited about his own Chanel opus, to be screened in December as the opener to the house's Paris-Moscow Métiers d'Art pre-fall collection at Paris's Ranelagh theater. He cast Lithuanian model Edita Vilkeviciute (seen here), his latest discovery, as Chanel, along with the house muse Lady Amanda Harlech and her actress daughter Tallulah.

    "It's a little Max Sennett type film," Lagerfeld explained to me (think flickering black and white silent slapstick), "about the life of Chanel from 1913 to 1923. And I've spliced in newsreel footage of WWI because I think it's interesting to juxtapose fashion with the horrible images of the trenches." He had originally planned to put the show on in Moscow, "but they (Russian customs) wanted to have the clothes three weeks in advance, which means we wouldn't have been ready and the situation seemed risky, so we cancelled."

    Lagerfeld has recently returned from a visit to his new 1843 home away from home in Vermont, where he shot the Chanel spring campaign. He said he loves the house, which friends scouted for him. "It's perfect for all my Biedermeier furniture from my childhood days," he added. "I had to find somewhere to put it."

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    Friday, November 21, 2008

    Showing the Money

    By Rebecca Voight...

    At least somebody's still making money these days. The Monnaie de Paris, the storied mint that churns out France's euro coins, went into full birthday mode on Wednesday to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the birth of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, issuing a solid-gold coin with a face value of 5 euros, in reference to the house's iconic N°5 fragrance. The 5 oz. coin, limited to 99, features a Lagerfeld-made portrait of Chanel in trademark hat and pearls on one side and a quilted 5 on the other.

    The cost for a gold coin is €5,900, but for those who find the price a bit steep in these copper-pinching times, the news from the mint is the coins have all been pre-sold—and we have a good idea who to. Anyway, the smaller silver coins are only €45. In total, the mint is issuing 11,900 pieces of Chanel money, which goes on sale December 1.

    And so workwear-clad coin-makers milled with Paris paparazzi and fashion fanatics deep in the old Monnaie's workrooms while the gold heated up in the minting machine as we waited for the ever fashionably late Lagerfeld to arrive with France's Minister of Culture.

    "Money sells," Lagerfeld later mused, after the first piece popped out of the machine. We then followed Chanel's Marie-Louise de Clermont-Tonnerre upstairs to the mint's gilt ballroom to quaff champagne before noon, of which Gabrielle would no doubt approve. As Karl Lagerfeld pointed out, "After 125 years, it's high time to celebrate."

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    Saturday, October 18, 2008

    Just Kidding

    For all you Karl kultheads, watch the Kaiser kommit what he kalls a "bad taste joke" while kreating the imagery for his new scent, Kapsule...

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    Friday, October 3, 2008

    Paris Fashion Week: Chanel

    Pia Catton...

    Karl Lagerfeld is known to be a music obsessive. And at the show today, the only thing that topped his guitar case made of white Chanel quilting was a pair Elvis sunglasses with plastic sideburns.

    But the two models-as-rockers were only one part of the tableau. To the pop strains of "Our House" by Madness, models emerged from a giant replica of the house of Chanel at 31 rue Cambon. After leaving the façade, they walked down a gray runway painted to resemble a sidewalk. And the collection seemed to reflect the catch-all democracy of the street. There were classic suits (some in blown-out proportions) for the ladies, sweaters and leggings for les jeunes filles and a sublime gray evening gown for the princesses. Even a group of gents emerged, looking ever so Karl-like with their jeans, tuxedo jackets and high collars.

    With the natural light flowing in from the glass ceilings of the Grand Palais, the show looked every bit the ideal day: a street of chic where everyone is coming from or going to Chanel.

    Lagerfeld has a way of celebrating the tradition of Chanel without devolving into brand narcissism, if such a thing exists. After last year's carousel of giant-sized Chanel objects, this was an homage to—with apologies to Led Zeppelin—"Houses of the Holy."

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    Monday, June 9, 2008

    Chanel and Dover, Together at Last

    Chanel has dropped in at Dover Street Market, complete with a hut-like boutique, a cardboard Eiffel Tower and life-sized Karl cutouts—ironic, considering the flesh version is possibly the most animated man in fashion. Spread across five of DSM’s six floors is a wide array of ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes from the Paris-Londres Metiers d'Arts collection, as well as edits of iconic Chanel pieces and a few limited-editions, too. Coco herself once said, “Fashion is not simply a matter of clothes. Fashion is in the air, born upon the wind. One intuits it.” Those words will ring true again on June 25, when the Parisian powerhouse packs up and only the memory of the temporary takeover will remain...

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    Monday, May 19, 2008

    Karl Lagerfeld Creates an Icon

    Karl Lagerfeld has spent the better part of the last five years photographing Ford model Brad Koenig for projects ranging from gallery shows to ad campaigns. But that's just the beginning. They've also rendezvoused each month to shoot Brad as any number of fictional characters and real-life icons, i.e. James Dean, Rudolph Valentino and Lieutenant Pinkerton from Madame Butterfly. Proving the shelf life of a model doesn't have to be short, Karl has now compiled those images of the Missouri native in a book, Metamorphoses of an American (Steidl), which he launched last Friday at Pace/MacGill gallery...

    Photos by Jimi Celeste for Patrick McMullan

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    Friday, May 16, 2008

    Chanel Cruise Collection in Miami

    More pics from Michel Gaubert. (See also his Jetsetera diary.)...



    Karl's killer heels in action

    Spotlight tanning




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    Thursday, May 15, 2008

    Chanel Cruise Collection in Miami

    Pre-show pics from by the one-and-only Michel Gaubert. (See also his Jetsetera diary.)...

    Michel on the roof of the Raleigh

    Chanel jewelry designer Laetitia Crahay

    The famous pool at the Raleigh, where the show will take place

    One of Iekeliene Stange's looks


    Karl Lagerfeld's sketched invitation and Karl holding a pistol-heeled Chanel shoe

    Chanel lifesaver

    Michel's paint-splashed shoes

    Chanel's Eagle Eye

    A Hillary Clinton nutcracker one of the models picked up at a local novelty shop

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    Monday, March 17, 2008

    Pics from the glittering opening party in Hong Kong of the Chanel Mobile Art Container, a collaboration between Karl Lagerfeld, starchitect Zaha Hadid and artists Sophie Calle, Stephen Shore, Yoko Ono and the like, who used the house's signature quilted bag as their inspiration. The cream of Hong Kong and Euro stars Anna Mouglalis and Diane Kruger turned out for the launch. From here, the group show will tour major world cities until 2010...

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    Friday, February 29, 2008

    Johannes Thumfart on Chanel...

    For Chanel this season, Karl Lagerfeld chose to surprise by not surprising—and that's good. In the center of the stadium-like Grand Palais stood a gigantic carousel on which, instead of horses, the many symbols of Chanel circled: flacons, shoes, bijoux, bows, hats, lipstick, interlocking Cs and so on. With the merry-go-round as museum, Chanel celebrated its own myth in grand style, as if these items weren't already larger than life. The clothes, too, were decisively classic, with an air of nostalgia. Everything we've come to know, love and covet from the house were on parade, in shades of black, white, dusty pink and navy. And, for the kiddies who want to take a spin in Chanel, nerdy new-rave glasses and transparent raincoats with abstract patterns.

    photos by Rachel de Joode

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