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Monday, August 10, 2009

Headline Trip

Sundance goes fishing for Bruce Weber hunks with a new online exhibition featuring photos, films and more. [Sundance Channel]

Celebrating her 67th birthday, the unsinkable Betsey Johson pulls from the archives, posting runway videos dating back to her 1978 debut. [WWD]

Proving it's hip to be square, Erin Wasson thumbs her nose at alternate venues and opts for a big bash at the tents. Take that, Milk Studios! [Fashion Week Daily]

We swore we wouldn’t come back for more, but a peek at Blair Waldorf in Hervé Léger guarantees we'll at least tune in for the season premiere. [NY Post]

There's life after Katie Grand, and it's on Pop's blog. [Pop]

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Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Headline Trip

  • Two biographies on the late, great Isabella Blow to hit bookshelves next year. [NY Observer]
  • Ryan McGinley and ever-androgynous Tilda Swinton to collaborate on women's and men's ad campaigns for Pringle of Scotland. [WWD]
  • Living up to her mag's name, Katie Grand got married to longtime beau, Pulp bass player Steve Mackey, and shows us the love. [LOVE blog]
  • Johanna Stickland "gives a big fuck you to the dude outside my window late last night singing the song from Cats." [Facebook]
  • A miniature greenhouse, taxidermy and the British flag defaced by John Galliano are just some of the props for sale at SHOWstudio. [SHOWstudio]

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    Tuesday, February 24, 2009

    Hat Spat

    Last night at the V&A, eccentric English milliner Stephen Jones launched his solo show of 300 or so hats with a festive finale to London Fashion Week. Prop stylist Fred Butler told us she (yes, she) was in hat heaven as she breezed around the grand space, photographing guests in their feathered, furry and otherwise festooned (and mandatory) head tableaux. Legendary retailer Michael Kostiff was on hand, as was (UK) Harper's Bazaar editor-in-chief Lucy Yeoman, Giles Deacon and male model Callum, whose mother worked alongside Stephen in his original shop.

    And then, tragedy struck. Fred, who's the loveliest of girls, collided with a less-than-charming woman and the two were inextricably entangled in a hat-lock. We don't know the ugly details, but apparently insults (and maybe a hat) were hurled, feelings were hurt and Fred, our Cinderella, fled the scene unscathed, thankfully, but before she could get her Anna Piaggi pic!...


    Katie Grand & Lucy Yeoman


    Erin O'Connor, Giles Deacon


    Judy Blame & Philip Treacy


    Namalee Bolle & Bruno Basso, Michael Kostiff


    Callum & mum


    Teo, set designer Simon Costin

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    Monday, February 23, 2009

    London Fashion Week: Giles

    Giles' leitmotif for fall '09 was a celebration of New Butch, from the live music set by chunky girl rockers An Experiment on a Bird in the Airpump (currently the London band to namecheck) to the street-cast and tattooed models. Even the slicked-down hair suggested an aggressive new attitude. None of this is surprising when you consider that his best friend and the show's stylist, Katie Grand, has just featured queen dyke Beth Ditto on the cover of her new magazine, Love.

    Reliably, Giles showed off his offbeat side with huge flying saucer-like hats by Stephen Jones (the subject of a V&A exhibit launching right after the show), a blow-up bolero jacket and spiked conical skirts. Then came a surreal interjection with no fanfare: a model dressed as some sort of furry Mohican crossed with a giant dildo.

    Of course, Giles is still part of a wider industry at the mercy of trends. So there were lots of that very fresh blue-gray color that seems to be everywhere, here seen in rubbery silicone tops and patent leather. And lots of abstract prints and big fur, which Giles interestingly started halfway down the sleeves, while his take on the season's obsession with deconstruction saw exposed seams and detailing, bringing us back to that a less-processed woman. All things are relative, of course, as Giles' prices hardly allow for Earth Mother types.

    —Daryoush Haj-Najafi






    Giles

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    Tuesday, February 17, 2009

    Prada Placement

    By Rebecca Voight...

    It's two down and two to go. For a series aptly called The Iconoclasts, Miuccia Prada picked four fashion editors—W’s Alex White, Katie Grand from the soon-to-be-legendary Love, Olivier Rizzo (who styles for V, VMAN, Another and Arena Homme Plus) and French Vogue’s editrix Carine Roitfeld—and asked them to “rethink” Prada stores in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

    This week Alex White invaded New York’s Soho store, while London’s Old Bond Street Prada was turned into a skate park by Katie Grand. The lowdown: White went heavily for liquid Lycra leopard-spot and snakeskin stockings in a red-light district mood, while she left Prada’s spring pumps in a delectable, chaotic heap. She also worked Mickey Mouse ears into hats and put a few of Prada's mannequins in white blindfolds—a signature touch?

    Meanwhile, Grand—along with David Sims—installed a plywood skateboard ramp in the Old Bond Street store. Presumably shoppers will bring their decks and forego those dangerous six-inch platforms that sent a few pretties tumbling during the last show. "I wanted to do a film with David Sims and we talked about having a girl dancing," says Grand, reached on a shoot the day after the London launch party. "We only had 2½ weeks and David was on vacation in Costa Rica, so we worked it out over a few desperate email conversations. Eventually he said he wanted to have girls skateboarding so we looked for models who knew how. But then I thought about Prada's display mannequins. They're so beautiful, so we put them on the ramp."

    Now back to Love. After a sneak preview at London's Dover Street Market and Harvey Nichols, Grand's new Condé Nast fashion mag will hit newsstands on Thursday, but for the moment she doesn't even have any copies left in her office. After several Valentine's launch soirées, she says she planning a bigger bash a bit later at Harvey Nicks. Love's first issue features ladies and gents who "don't have model-like dimensions," says Grand, who put a sumptuous, nearly nude Beth Ditto on the cover. Iggy Pop—who Grand points out "is a women's sample size"—and the statuesque Anjelica Huston appear inside.


    Prada New York, rethought by Alex White


    Prada London, rethought by Katie Grand

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    Tuesday, February 10, 2009

    Prada Hit Parade

    Prada seems to be setting its sights on total world domination. Not content with sending everyone on a scramble for lace last season, now the style juggernaut has enlisted four leading fashion editors—visionary image-makers in their own right—to take over and make over key Prada boutiques.

    More than glorified window dressing, The Iconoclasts will showcase individual interpretations of Prada's spring '09 collection, with its lush metallics and platforms worth the tumble. The project, to be fully documented on its website, will kick off with W's Alex White transforming the Soho boutique (2/13), followed by Love's Katie Grand in London (2/13) and Oliver Rizzo in Milan (2/25), culminating with Carine Roitfeld's triumphant conversion of the Avenue Montaigne store in Paris (3/5). These are your icons, folks.

    —Franklin Melendez

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    Tuesday, December 9, 2008

    No Love Lost

    It's been quiet on the Katie Grand front since we revealed the name (Love) of her new Condé Nast-backed "bespoke" biannual in October, following a slow falling-out with Pop owner Bauer Media. But this morning we have more news about the masthead, namely that Lee Swillingham and Stuart Spalding will be the creative directors, Victoria Young the fashion director, Tim Clifton-Green the senior fashion editor, Francesca Burns the senior fashion editor-at-large, Joe McKenna the senior contributing fashion editor, with the ever-amazing Murray Healy as senior editor. You may remember Murray wrote our Hinterview with Katie Grand a while back. The first issue of Love hits newsstands February 19.

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    Monday, November 3, 2008

    Royal Flash

    The run-up to the launch of Flash, a three-month pop-up restaurant in the Royal Academy of Art's regal new GSK space in London, has been well-publicized—as if its well-connected owners David Waddington and Pablo Flack, both of Bistrotheque fame, would have it any other way.

    And with the launch on Saturday, the verdict is in: the hype is warranted. Not only were chef Tom Collins' creations delicious, but the guests—a tight-knit bunch—were in rare form. Giles Deacon and Katie Grand, who go back nearly twenty years with Waddington, were particularly chatty. Grand was likely still riding high on all the to-do surrounding Love, her new title with Conde Nast. But although she didn't let on if she knew who her replacement at POP would be, the rumor mill's list grows longer by the day, even if most people think trying to do POP without her would be impossible. But he/she who dares, wins. No?

    Many of London's biggest fashion names were to be found across town at CSM course director Louise Wilson's OBE award celebrations, making Flash's pull all the more impressive. Arty types included everyone from the Int'l Herald Tribune's Alice Rawsthorne, megastar photographer Juergen Teller and his wife and gallerist Sadie Coles to the irreverent artist Simon Popper and trash art stars Tim Noble and Sue Webster. Also making an appearance was designer Bella Freud, daughter of the painter Lucian and great-granddaughter of the father of psychoanalysis. Rounding out the fashion contingent were Style.com's Tim Blanks, Nicki Bidder of Starworks, Dazed creative director Nicola Formichetti, i-D editor Ben Reardon, Arena Homme Plus' Jo-Ann Furniss and Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East, all of whom recognize that fashion is fueled by parties that aren't just big, but also big fun.

    Following dinner, fashion's favorite bearded drag artist and playwright Johnny Woo hosted a spirited game of Gay Bingo. although everyone (see above) cheated. Woo and Grand's banter was funny, fashion types just don't argue with Grand. It's like having an inner policeman, Foucault-style.

    —Daryoush Haj-Najafi

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    Friday, October 17, 2008

    Pop, the Question

    So everyone knows that Condé Nast UK, whose original plans to acquire Pop from Bauer Media fell through, simply poached the magazine's founder and editor-in-chief, Katie Grand, and her team last week to create a new-and-improved title under their own auspices. The larger, "bespoke" biannual promises to be an even more experimental and visionary blend of fashion and art. But the question is, what will happen to Pop? We hear that Bauer's initial reaction to keep the style bible alive has hit a snag and that, after twenty glorious issues over eight years, the winter issue will be the last pop. And here's another Hint exclusive. We also hear that the name of Katie Grand and Condé Nast's new baby is, appropriately, Love, due to arrive in March. Now that's what we call a love child. You heard it here first.

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