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Thursday, April 9, 2009

Rising in the East

Back in 2001, many would have thought it was Marjan Pejoski's swan song—literally—when the UK-based designer gained fashion infamy by creating Bjork's swan dress for the 2001 Academy Awards. Feathers were ruffled and the Macedonian all but disappeared. But Pejoski has actually nestled into a nice avant-garde niche, recently winning a New Gen sponsorship for his KTZ label, co-designed with Sasha Besovski for their Kokon To Zai store in London.

For fall, not unlike Alexander the Great, Pejoski has set his sights eastward, designing for Japanese label Dress Camp. Shown in Tokyo last week, the collection revolves around an old-timey American heiress on a kind of Grande Tour. The mood was dark and louche, with argyle onsies in gray and black, the ubiquitous leather pants, velvet jackets, long-haired coats favored by Martin Margiela and Gareth Pugh types, and enough sequins and minidresses to keep latter-day flappers flapping. The film-noir, Orient Express look was pure escapism—a flight of fancy.

—Bee-Shyuan Chang

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