Buzzing with excitement, the Antwerp Academy’s graduation show this year once again delivered the goods. Shown to an international jury that included Kris Van Assche, Tim Blanks and Jefferson Hack, the fourth-year collections were truly innovative and technically accomplished. Glen Martens’ cocoon coats in luxurious fabrics and layered origami white dresses were terribly chic yet forward-looking. In menswear, Yu Fukumoto offered an irreverent take on classic tailoring, with models chasing imaginary butterflies in crisp, white shirts, impeccable cotton shorts and straw hats. Best shoes went to Yuima Nakazato, whose nude and gold leather with insane metallic heels aptly echoed the futuristic and constructed feel of his armor-like collection. Ek Thongprasert, meanwhile, had the cutest show concept, sending couples down the runway together, building his interchangeable collection around the notions of love and intimacy. His black necklaces had a surreal, Jean Cocteau-like feel, spelling out the words “Love” and “Dream” to a touched audience, who no doubt wondered if this might be the last time he—or any of these students—feels as rosy about his chosen profession.
—Philippe Pourhashemi, photos by Sonny Vandevelde Glen Martens Yu Fukumoto Yuima Nakazata Ek Thongprasert
Labels: Antwerp Academy, backstage, Philippe Pourhashemi, Sonny Vandevelde