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Thursday, July 9, 2009

Berlin Fashion Week: Patrick Mohr & Vladimir Karaleev

As quickly as they began, the spring collections of Mercedes-Benz Fashionweek Berlin wrapped, probably because BFW isn't (yet) a full week. While big houses like Hugo Boss showed their main lines to an eager press, we went on the hunt for German talent of the younger, scrappier kind—and found two names to remember.

After assisting Henrik Vibskov in Copenhagen, Patrick Mohr returned to his hometown of Munich to work on his own line. For his first outing at Berlin Fashion Week, he showed his designs on a mix of professional models and homeless people—sometimes you couldn't tell which was which, and surely that was the point. The collection, with its focus on unusual materials and oversized cuts, recalled Vibskov and that other fashion provocateur, Bernhard Willhelm. Nevertheless, Mohr achieved his own vision of avant-garde—as if the homeless theme wasn't unusual enough.

Courtesy of IMG Fashion/InDigital

Another up-and-comer is Vladimir Karaleev. Not part of the official calendar, he presented his lightweight, abstract collection at COMA gallery. Forms appeared like unfinished sketches, while contrasting materials like vinyl and paper made for pleasantly awkward draping. It'll be interesting to see how the Bulgarian in Berlin develops.

Courtesy of 8MILLIMEDIA

—Thomas Pieper

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Friday, February 6, 2009

Strip Tease

Our Berlin correspondent Thomas Pieper sent us these cute photo strips of Iekeliene Stange with her photographer boyfriend Nicholas Lawn, taken at her exhibit of polaroids during Berlin Fashion Week...

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Monday, February 2, 2009

Bernhard Willhelm at Berlin Fashion Week

By Thomas Pieper...

Berlin Fashion Week—with its five-day marathon of shows, parties, after-parties and after-after-parties—is now over. The consensus? That it sparkled less than its previous four seasons. Nevertheless, here are two highlights.

The one show everyone was looking forward to also caused the biggest surprise. While waiting outside Postbahnhof club for Bernhard Willhelm's collection, a rumor spread through the crowd that it wouldn't be a regular runway show. Indeed Willhelm decided to hold one of his large-scale tableaux vivants. With the 1976 Innsbruck Winter Olympics as the inspiration, his fall 2009 men's collection was both fashion-forward and nostalgic. Models hammed it up inside a miniature Eiffel Tower, a giant dinosaur skeleton and other sculptures, as Bernhard himself posed and gave interviews. His first show in Berlin was the ultimate winter wonderland.

Bernhard Willhelm

The young duo of Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, better known as Kaviar Gauche, also came up with a surprise. Their models were all but naked, wearing only flesh-colored underwear and extra-long hair extensions. After all, why distract from the cult accessory label's signature shell-shaped bags and long-fringed necklaces?

Kaviar Gauche

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