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Saturday, March 21, 2009

Barcelona Hopping

By Cesar Padilla...

I have to admit that, with Spain recently banning skin-and-bones models, I was looking forward to some Lane Bryant big-girl action at Barcelona Fashion Week (aka 080 Barcelona Fashion). But apparently the ban has been lifted. Between the skinny models and an international selection of designers, I felt like I could have been in Paris—for better or worse. And then there's the avant-garde, Gaudi-inspired goth streak that runs through Catalonia, best exemplified by local dark star Txell Miras.

Txell Miras

Australian label materialbyproduct delivered the most classic collection of the week. Based on the House of Chanel, it started off on the drab side, but quickly gained momentum with striking lightweight black dresses with a vertical modernist print in a pale blue pattern. Unfortunately, their concept of a dressing room on the runway made for a tedious and repetitive show that left many yawning.


Another homage—this time to that master of all things tight and sexy, Azzedine Alaïa—came from Canadian label markfast, a come-hither collection of short body-hugging mini-dresses for the woman who probably doesn't keep her clothes on very long. After the show, the designer recoiled when I used the word "slutty." I explained that slutty isn't an insult, just a way of life, and one that I don't judge. I know plenty of women whose pubes might trickle out the bottom of his dresses—as in, not interested in wearing panties. Let's be real.


Representing the Spaniards, local talent Miriam Ponsa sent out modern urban survivalists. She used an interesting military palette to convey her Rei Kawakubo-inspired abstract designs, with a nod to innocence in the form of cute denim clamdiggers for a nice pastoral touch.

Miriam Ponsa

Japanese designer Seiko Taki was another star of the week. The clothes had no real hanger appeal, but once her romantic, sensual vision arrived, it took the room by surprise. Wild applause followed, along with an emotional moment from the designer.

Seiko Taki

MAREUNROL'S started off with an incredible, quick-cut short film reminiscent of Bonnie & Clyde. Then came out gangster-style trenches, patchwork dresses and insane wigs worthy of Cousin It from the Addams Family. Mojitos made it all the better.


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Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Anh Tuan Pham reports from Barcelona...

The fall collections of 080 Barcelona Fashion opened with Txell Miras. Inspired by the concept of déjà vu, the Catalan designer presented slim silhouettes wrapped and layered in a mix of highly constructed jackets, vests, bell skirts and the current fashion staple: low-crotched MC Hammer pants. Most of the looks incorporated some manner of strap or loop that trailed behind—in a sense, déjà vu...

The next day’s most compelling collection came from Il Galantuomo, a men's label by Korean-born Gunhyo Kim, a graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Arts and a design assistant of Dries Van Noten. Inspired by Antwerp's Hasidic Jews community, Gunhyo sent out chic, tailored ensembles of suit jackets, v-neck T-shirts, long tunics and loose pants—something of a continuation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Hasidic take a couple decades ago, yet Gunhyo’s riff was all his own...

The third and last day saw the club-kid stylings of EBP, body-rocking to New Rave—which, as I learned, is experiencing new life on the continent in a dance craze called “Tektonic.” The looks flaunted fluorescent colors, loud graphic prints and slogans to live by: “Glow in the Dark” and my personal favorite, “Don’t be so European"...

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Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Txell Miras, another fave from Noovo...

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