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Thursday, July 9, 2009

Berlin Fashion Week: Patrick Mohr & Vladimir Karaleev

As quickly as they began, the spring collections of Mercedes-Benz Fashionweek Berlin wrapped, probably because BFW isn't (yet) a full week. While big houses like Hugo Boss showed their main lines to an eager press, we went on the hunt for German talent of the younger, scrappier kind—and found two names to remember.

After assisting Henrik Vibskov in Copenhagen, Patrick Mohr returned to his hometown of Munich to work on his own line. For his first outing at Berlin Fashion Week, he showed his designs on a mix of professional models and homeless people—sometimes you couldn't tell which was which, and surely that was the point. The collection, with its focus on unusual materials and oversized cuts, recalled Vibskov and that other fashion provocateur, Bernhard Willhelm. Nevertheless, Mohr achieved his own vision of avant-garde—as if the homeless theme wasn't unusual enough.


Courtesy of IMG Fashion/InDigital

Another up-and-comer is Vladimir Karaleev. Not part of the official calendar, he presented his lightweight, abstract collection at COMA gallery. Forms appeared like unfinished sketches, while contrasting materials like vinyl and paper made for pleasantly awkward draping. It'll be interesting to see how the Bulgarian in Berlin develops.


Courtesy of 8MILLIMEDIA

—Thomas Pieper

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