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Monday, October 13, 2008

Buzz Cut

A bee's perspective was the inspiration for new designer Dharma Taylor's spring collection of oversized tees, pants and jumpsuits in primary colors and geometric prints (at ilil in Tokyo and Shop 172 in London), shown as this trippy short film during London Fashion Week. Enjoy ...

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Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Beach Boys

Girls, you're not the only ones sweating the swimsuit. With the arrival of summer, a men's conundrum also emerges: where to find well-cut beach shorts that leave a little (or not) something to the imagination. Enter Orlebar Brown, the fashion insider's choice for the past year. Established in 2007 by photographer Adam Brown and ex-lawyer Julia Simpson, Orlebar provides simple trunks in solid colors—the everyman's choice. Because why experiment with perfection? Styles include the Setter (short shorts), Bulldog (classic mid-length), Dane (long drawstring) and Mastiff (long, loose fit). You can find Orlebar at the reliably bang-on Colette in Paris and Selfridges in London, as well as Eden Rock in St. Barths, Carlisle Bay in Antigua and the Cotton House in Mustique, which means you can handily pick up a pair on the island when you arrive. And perhaps it's a good idea to do so since Selfridges sold out in five days. Now, burn your bad old boardies, please.

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Saturday, May 17, 2008

Bird Watching

Because fashion is nothing if not an allegory, new men's line Conference of Birds takes its name from a 15th-century Persian poem about a group of feathered creatures—a peacock, crane, parrot, nightingale—in search of enlightenment. We can totally see the comparison: blazers, trenches, sweaters, jeans. Designer and stylist Andrew Holden calls it nostalgically modern, a moody blend of British tailoring and American work wear. We get it...

Photos by Ryan Michael Kelly
Model Shaun Haugh

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Thursday, May 1, 2008

Have we ever mentioned our total obsession with Belgian accessories designer Natalia Brilli? We can't get enough of her black leather-covered watches, skateboards and clam shells. It's dark, it's glam, it's conceptual—we're all over it. And it was only three years ago that she struck out on her own, after two years as head accessories designer under Olivier Theyskens at Rochas. Then came the Andam award and orders from Barneys New York, Maria Luisa in Paris and Park in Vienna, among other top stores. Here's what you can expect for fall...

Photos by Thomas Lillo

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Thursday, April 24, 2008

Q&A with men's designer Juun J., Seoul's answer to Hedi Slimane (circa Dior Homme), by Virginia Jackson-Reed...

The Seoul fashion scene has yet to reach the level of global notoriety of cities like New York and Tokyo. Why do you think that is?
You're right, there isn’t a designer in South Korea who reaches that level, but the Korea fashion scene has just begun. I, too, have just begun.

Your Lone Costume line has garnered comparisons with Dior Homme and Raf Simons. Would you say this is fair, and in what ways do you stand apart?
Although I now have my collections in Paris, I had my first collection in Korea in 2000. I showed were very slim suits. I think that's why I'm compared with these two labels. But my first collection in Paris was totally different. The silhouettes may still be similar, but I guess the origin of design is different.

Early on, Lone Costume had a womenswear component. Why did you stop?
Actually, there's never been womenswear in my collections. However, I used to let the female models wear men’s outfits or make a little bit of women's just for the men's show. At present, my women clients wear small sizes of my Juun. J men's collection.

Your line balances both refinement and edge. How do you achieve this?
Before I started my own line, I worked at other brands for ten years. I worked hard to bring out the true spirit of those brands rather than always creating something new. It was a great experience for me and I have a firm belief that fashion is an art and a business at the same time.

You've collaborated with English artist Simon Henwood and Japanese artist Nuts several times. What draws you to their work?
I’m a big fan of these artists, especially Simon. My inspirations are from people always. And as you know, Simon draws the “Real People.”

Trench coats are a recurring theme. Are they your signature?
I love trench coats a lot. When you are styling with a trench coat, all the other items have to be very simple as it has a fairly unique presence by itself.

What three things would you say sum up the vibe of your label?
Trench coat, structural transformation and novelty.

Who best embodies your aesthetic and why?
Ironically, my muse is Charlotte Gainsbourg. Her tomboy image is very attractive and has strong power in it.

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Monday, November 19, 2007

We had to show you what our friend and men's jewelry designer Hannah Martin is up to. This is her new H line, which, she says, is "meant to conjure an underworld of vice with its brutal beauty and darkly enigmatic glamour—a place full of gangsters, hellraisers and fallen rock stars." No wonder Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Bailey are fans of the St Martins grad who formerly worked at Givenchy and Cartier. Did we mention she's collaborated with London taxidermists McKinley & Son? The world could use more risk-takers like her.

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