Lucky New Yorkers will be the first to see — and buy — Dior Homme's fall 2014 collection on April 24, when the collection hits the Soho store before rolling out globally in May.
Lighting the way will be a site-specific installation by the French design duo M/M (Paris), unveiled the same day. The light art, which will remain in the store for one month, is an extension of a large-format, photographic catalog created with photographer Karim Sadli. Says Van Assche, "This installation in Soho reflects my plan to show every Dior Homme collection in a way that is both unusual and particularly appropriate."
"In this collection," say M/M (Paris), who've incorporated their alphabetic trademark, "Kris Van Assche pays homage to his years studying in Antwerp and to his memories of the graphics department. We have reflected this idea by devising a pageant of light effects, like something that students might have created."
Don't sweat the sweatshirt. It's still all about comfort. But should you require a pop, trompe l'oeil or other statement, take your pick...
$430 at Barneys New York
$490 at Barneys New York
$675 at Alexander McQueen
Luggage shouldn't be flashy or obnoxious — it just shouldn't. Aware of this universal truth, Hedi Slimane has designed the new Monogram line of travel goods for Saint Laurent. Alluringly subtle and classic, the thirty or so men's and women's pieces — suitcases, briefcases, totes, and more — feature the Saint Laurent signature in embossed gold letters and outer canvas printed with a barely-there transposition of the Yves Saint Laurent logo, the one designed by the artist Cassandre in 1961. Everything is made in Italy, too, backing up the understated chic with quality craftsmanship
Believe it or not, summer scarves have a purpose. They keep bare shoulders warm on cool, breezy nights. Of course, Riccardo Tisci likes to imbue his scarves for Givenchy with another layer of meaning. Following the visual cues of his spring 2014 collection, his new scarves — or foulard — combine sepia-toned scenes of noble African tribeswomen with a Japanese robo-chic element — with a little Crucifixion mixed in for good measure. After all, a signature is a signature.
120 x 120 cm, cotton-silk blend, $530 at Net-a-Porter
This week Céline opened a flagship in the Mayfair district of London, where, surely no coincidence, creative director Phoebe Philo resides. Bags, shoes and ready-to-wear are given ample room in the minimally designed space, which emphasizes unconventional materials, many of them rare and left raw. The windows in the facade, for example, are framed in dark Iroko wood from Africa, while the interior is divided by walls covered in clear gray Marmorino plaster from Italy. The floor may look like parquet but in fact comprises 6000 marble tiles inlaid with semi-precious stones.
Philo and the Céline team also collaborated with Danish artist FOS — a recent participant in the Venice Biennale, Art Basel, and Frieze Art Fair, where he installed an ice-cream stand — to create several unique pieces: cast-iron door handles, floor lamps and a Calderesque brass chandelier. Banana plants in amorphous terracotta pots round out the vaguely tropical aesthetic.
Céline, 103 Mount Street, London
You might have thought there was only one designer sneaker collab you had to have this spring. But no. For a second time, Raf Simons has teamed up with Adidas on a range of color-exploding eye-catchers.
There are eight unisex versions in up to four colors each, with uppers printed in a pattern from Raf Simons' spring collection. Building from fall '13, the collab also sees a shoe-in-shoe concept, while tweaking classic Adidas styles. The Stan Smith gets a modest revamp, while Simons has gone color-crazy with Super Trekker, Rising Star, Bounce, Formula, Response Trail, and a super slick, Wellies-style boot.
Here's the kicker: not every style has Adidas' three-stripe motif imposed on it — that's when you know you have clout.
$440-$570 at Adidas Originals stores, retailers carrying RAF, and select sneaker specialists.
If you're going to cave to chunky earth-mother sandals, do so with these colorful specimens from Marni. The chunky Fussbett sole was launched in 2001 upon a visit to Africa, where designer Consuelo Castiglioni saw sandals constructed from recycled tires and packed with straw. Her versions are made from rubber and cord, added to every spring and fall. This season, she's also released a limited-edition style, the Blitz Fussbett, in sparkling berry and granite.
$560-1120 at Marni
After the heinous winter most of the world has just suffered through, treat yourself to these Saint Laurent silver-studded slip-on leather sneakers. You can't go wrong with patrimony that's part Paris posh, part L.A. casual. If Hedi Slimane can seek California's snug embrace, so can you. Another option: leopard print!
Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag of the cultishly followed French creative agency M/M (Paris) are all about secret messages, the more coded the better. An aversion to the obvious is the calling card of the press-shy duo who, over 22 years, have worked with virtually everyone in the fashion arena, most notably Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci and Nicolas Ghesquière, now of Louis Vuitton. M/M's new T-shirt collaboration with A.P.C. is no exception.
Needless to say, the designs are highly yet delightfully complicated. But it begins simply enough, with a T-shirt called Mister T, in reference to A.P.C. founder and designer Jean Touitou. With its recursive mise en abyme effect, it is also a drawing of a character in the shape of a T-Shirt. Meta much?
M/M also designed 'Jean' and 'Judith' motifs, another reference to Jean Touitou, as well as his wife. A bit of wordplay is at work here, naturally. As dogs are sometimes called toutous in French, the Jean motif resembles little black dogs while spelling out his name. This is in addition to a whole new typeface M/M created for the collaboration — which they do with most of their projects, to get into the right frame of mind. So this spring and summer, why not confound everyone around you with slogan tees that look like anything but?
$110-155 (men's or women's sizing) at A.P.C. stores and online.