"Natural forms and curves are applicable to human architectures," says bag designer Konstantin Kofta, who's incorporated ornate baroque architecture — replicating actual chunks of the stuff — in his spring collection of backpacks and clutches. The Slovenian designer has evoked the shapes, curves, and decoration of the dramatic period, transferring them to sculptural leather, much like his unconventional recreations of skin, bones, and tar of previous seasons.
Presented at the spring 2016 collection, the mysteriously named 5AC is now available — John Galliano's first bag for Maison Margiela. With a lining that can be pulled outward to create a non-functioning bit of flash, the white goatskin bag is every bit as transformative as the original designer.
$2995 at select Maison Margiela boutiques and online
Never mind the name — none of the wood frames in Termite's glasses have burrowing bugs. Which isn't to say the workers at the UK-based company haven't been busy handcrafting the frames from birch plywood culled from sustainable sources around Europe. All box packaging, too, is made from recycled paper goods. Design-wise, the fall collection draws from the Bauhaus movement, with its unexpected combinations of clean, bold shapes and lines.
Saint Laurent has a tony new home in New York — a remodeling, to be exact, of the Upper East Side flagship that originally opened in 2003. The new boutique, overtaking the Los Angeles outlet as the largest in the U.S., illustrates creative director Hedi Slimane's rigorous and straight-edged retail vision for the house, a total concept that utilizes marble and brass almost exclusively.
A complement to the house's Soho location, the renovated UES address has also added a third floor, where menswear is housed, in addition to women's on the second floor and lifestyle on the ground floor.
Saint Laurent, 3 East 57th Street, NYC
His first foray into eyewear, New York jewelry artist Chris Habana has launched a line of sunglasses with Korean eyewear label Gentle Monster. The capsule collection features three architectural frames in two colors, and coincides with the launch of Gentle Monster's first stateside store. The three styles — the Chola, the Hunt, the Fang — draw on Chris' signature pop-punk style with accents such as solid gold and silver diamond settings.
Though he's originally from Fresno, Rick Owens spent much of his misspent youth in L.A. How apropos that he's just opened his first store there, just down the street from, he says, "a Mexican drag bar where I spent a lot of late, boozy nights 20 years ago."
More than anything, he wanted the space to reflect his twisted view of Hollywood — a kind of brutalist Cecil B. Demille — which he achieved with the help of longtime architect Anna Tumaini. Together they installed a large-scale fog machine, the kind he has in his New York and Seoul stores. And they even incorporated what he calls a swimming pool (pools are big in the movies, right?), but which is more akin to a floor-to-ceiling tank in which bubbles, one at a time, rise to the surface.
What do you get when you mix buffalo bone, bull leather, silver, bronze, and an eye for Brutalism? You get Rick Owens' studded and stacked cuff bracelet, new for fall. But if this hunk of wrist art is a little too intense for you, Rick also made simpler versions with only leather or leather and bronze.
$3,674 at Rick Owens
It's unclear what kind of netting this calfskin Céline bag for fall refers to: fishing, tennis, www. No matter, really, because the bundle of intertwined ecru flowers is a bigger head-scratcher. Together they make one of the more surreal creations to pop out of Phoebe Philo's ever-moving imagination, far removed from the minimalist hobos and wearable vest-bags she also showed in the collection. While reminiscent of trendy fringe, the net in fact appears to be a new thing — and the shape of things to come, as usual.
$3,600 at Céline
This pool floatie of a jacket from London designer Christopher Raeburn bridges concept and comfort. Not only does it bring back memories of childhood buoyancy, but it's surprisingly warm and super lightweight, too, as it's made of little more than latex and air. The hoodie alone could double as a cushion. Plus, the blow valves are exposed for easy re-inflation.
Fellow straphangers on the subway won't take kindly to the jacket, but if even they spitefully poke a hole in the latex, worry not, for it even comes with a puncture repair kit.
£949 at Christopher Raeburn