After the heinous winter most of the world has just suffered through, treat yourself to these Saint Laurent silver-studded slip-on leather sneakers. You can't go wrong with patrimony that's part Paris posh, part L.A. casual. If Hedi Slimane can seek California's snug embrace, so can you. Another option: leopard print!
Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag of the cultishly followed French creative agency M/M (Paris) are all about secret messages, the more coded the better. An aversion to the obvious is the calling card of the press-shy duo who, over 22 years, have worked with virtually everyone in the fashion arena, most notably Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci and Nicolas Ghesquière, now of Louis Vuitton. M/M's new T-shirt collaboration with A.P.C. is no exception.
Needless to say, the designs are highly yet delightfully complicated. But it begins simply enough, with a T-shirt called Mister T, in reference to A.P.C. founder and designer Jean Touitou. With its recursive mise en abyme effect, it is also a drawing of a character in the shape of a T-Shirt. Meta much?
M/M also designed 'Jean' and 'Judith' motifs, another reference to Jean Touitou, as well as his wife. A bit of wordplay is at work here, naturally. As dogs are sometimes called toutous in French, the Jean motif resembles little black dogs while spelling out his name. This is in addition to a whole new typeface M/M created for the collaboration — which they do with most of their projects, to get into the right frame of mind. So this spring and summer, why not confound everyone around you with slogan tees that look like anything but?
$110-155 (men's or women's sizing) at A.P.C. stores and online.
Raf Simons has gone graphic for his 9th collaboration with Fred Perry. For spring, Raf Simons X Fred Perry consists of polos, jackets, and light sweaters, each piece exploring color, pattern, and proportion in its own bold way. Combine them for amplified effect.
$160-$550 at Fred Perry stores and online store.
Watch a (very) short video for the collection by Willy Vanderperre...
Because you can never have enough Heroine bags, Alexander McQueen has unloaded tons more options of its signature accessory for spring. First, the label is launching the Mini Heroine satchel, which boasts all the great craftsmanship of its roomier sister — suede lining, hand stitching, chain and leather strap — but smaller and slightly more economical. Second, the Heroine bag itself is being rolled out in new colors, graphic prints and textures — emulating those of the future-tribal spring collection. It, too, will be available in a mini size, as well as small and medium. As Lorde might say, you may never be royal, but you can have Heroine bags.
$1545-$2595 at Alexander McQueen stores and online (late February - July 2014)
In 2009, for a new project called The Iconoclasts, Miuccia Prada asked four fashion editors — including Katie Grand and Carine Roitfeld, then at the helm of French Vogue — to 'rethink' Prada stores in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Five years later, the concept will begin anew when, on the night of Prada's fall collection (February 20) during Milan Fashion Week, W magazine fashion director Edward Enninful recasts two Prada stores — women’s and men’s on Monte Napoleone — based on the cultural, literary, and stylistic triumph that was the Harlem Renaissance. Surely there are racial connotations at work here.
Overlapping with the Roaring Twenties and the Jazz Age, the Harlem Renaissance saw a creative explosion among the African-American community of Harlem in New York City. The waves started there reverberated around the world and launched the careers of, among many artists, musical greats Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, Billie Holiday, and Josephine Baker, who performed in all-inclusive cabarets like the Cotton Club.
Enninful’s vision, an imagined 1920s nightclub, incorporates a cast of black and white mannequins dressed in Prada spring 2014 and archive pieces, posing against a glittering art-deco bar. Similarly, a diorama at the men’s store will showcase black and white mannequins sitting around game tables, also dressed in Prada spring 2014 and archive pieces. The images above, not part of the spring ad campaign, have been newly shot by Emma Summerton.
The Milan installations will remain on view until February 24. Two days later, Enninful’s vision for Prada’s new Saint Petersburg store will be unveiled. We hope to see a reenactment of Stonewall as a less-than-subtle dig at Putin's heinous anti-gay laws.
British photographer David Bailey — whom our Vivien Lash credits for inventing the Swinging Sixties, no less — is having a moment. A retrospective of his nearly 60-year career, Stardust, has just opened at London's National Portrait Gallery. Culled by the man himself, it's a must-stop for the fashion pack en route from the New York shows.
A commemorative series of unisex T-shirts has also launched, made in collaboration with the East London creative agency The Bleach Room. One per decade, the six fronts — comprised of tweaked versions of his famous portraits of Mick Jagger, Boy George, Michael Caine, Grace Jones, John Lennon, and Johnny Depp — show the breadth and persistence of the still-working lensman.
In the 17 seconds you'll have between the shows and parties of Fashion Week, pop into one of these pop-ups...
Fans of obscure Japanese style, take note. During Fashion Week, Nipponista will sell the island nation's more cultish labels — i.e. N.Hoolywood, Anrealage, Mint Designs, Daisy Balloon, Facetasm, Tokyobike, and the current collection of Kansai Yamamoto, early costume designer for David Bowie. The famed department store Isetan, Japan's answer to Barneys, is putting the pop-up together as part of the Cool Japan government initiative.
Nipponista, February 6-13, 47 Greene Street, NYC
Daisy Tweet Shop
Some months ago, Marc Jacobs made news by adding a beauty store to his cluster of shops on Bleecker Street. Now he's raking in headlines with Daisy Tweet Shop, a pop-up during Fashion Week that will accept "social currency" in lieu of money. In exchange for tweets, Instagrams, and Facebook posts tagged with #MJDaisyChain, and depending on the size and reach of shoppers' social presence, they can walk out with free fragrances and small accessories.
Daisy Tweet Shop, February 7-9, 462 West Broadway, NYC
Shipley & Halmos
Shipley & Halmos is the proud owner of a pop-up on Canal Street, the men's label's first-ever retail effort. Among its spring wares and accessories is a clever assortment of souvenir-like items, a la beer cozies, keyrings, and slogan mugs.
Shipley & Halmos, through February 23, 385 Canal Street, NYC
Deth Killers of Bushwick
Greg Minnig and Scott Campbell of Deth Killers, the Brooklyn-based makers of "asphalt-resisistant" jeans and jackets for motorcyclists, are opening a pop-up during New York Fashion Week. Not for the faint-of-heart.
Deth Killers, launching February 11, 348 Bowery Street, NYC
This Valentine's Day, give the gift that says what you really think — like this wool and appliquéd men's slogan sweater from London designer James Long with the Britpop-inspired, Grindr-approved words "I'm so fucking hard" spelled out across the front. Sometimes (usually) blunt smut talk is the sexiest of sweet nothings.
£490 ($805) at Browns
Hard as it is to believe, Zero + Maria Cornejo turns 15 this year. To celebrate, the Chilean-American designer asked fifteen of the brand’s nearest and dearest (clients, friends, artists) to choose a favorite piece of clothing from their own Zero wardrobes — including one in Zero's first print — to be re-issued in new colors or new fabrics for spring. A hangtag will tell a personal anecdote from the artist who wore it.
Working in a wide range of disciplines, these elite fifteen include Cindy Sherman, Tilda Swinton, Wangechi Mutu, Kara Walker, Cat Power, Karen O, and Miranda July, each embodying the Zero spirit of originality and nonconformity. The capsule collection will launch at Barneys locations in the US and Zero + Maria Cornejo stores on Bleecker Street (New York) and Melrose Place (Los Angeles), as well as Zero's newly designed e-store.