Thom Browne, fall 2018

Snow-Stopper at Thom Browne

As is his wont, Thom Browne wrapped his fall collection in an idiosyncratic, tongue-in-cheek mise en scène. This time it involved men in gray pajamas slipping into camping beds at the end of the show in a desolate, snow-blanketed landscape. Other men wearing white skirt suits and bags tucked them into bed sporting trompe l'oeil gray suits, adding to the eerie effect.

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Jan 21, 2018 22:32:00
Kenzo, fall 2018

Camera-Ready at Kenzo

The scene was set on arrival at the venue for Kenzo’s fall 2018 show. Several film sets were scattered around the vast show space, replete with cut-in-half cars, half dining tables, sliced baths, and film-quality lighting and camera rigs. We thought before the show that this was to be the setting for the finale, where models would sit afterwards so the audience could meander around and snap photos for their Instagrams. We couldn’t have been more wrong.

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Jan 21, 2018 19:11:00
Comme des Garçons, fall 2018

Walking the Dinosaur

There was something carefree about the boys on Comme des Garçons’ runway today. The show opened with a deconstructed tailored jacket, paired with a flowing superhero print trouser, and topped with a giant dinosaur head mask. It was like watching young boys playing dress up, still in their pajamas, but being forced to go outside by their parents.

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Jan 20, 2018 09:14:00
Junya Watanabe, fall 2018

Tunnel Vision at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe took us to a tunnel off the beaten track in Paris this morning, which, for those without cars, involved a hike through the lesser known roads, that were familiar nonetheless through their mundanity. His dedicated followers had no qualms crossing city early in the morning in the rain.

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Jan 19, 2018 22:42:00
Rick Owens, fall 2018

Rock Solid at Rick Owens

Confronted with bureaucratic and logistical limitations in the run-up to his exhibit in Milan, Rick Owens decided to channel the angst he felt into his fall men's collection. And he titled it Sisyphus, after the king in Greek mythology whose punishment for a lifetime of hubris was the eternal uphill pushing of a boulder.

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Jan 19, 2018 12:45:00
Dries Van Noten, fall 2018

Mad for Marble at Dries Van Noten

A stripped-down, cover version of Underworld’s classic banger Born Slippy, by Get Well Soon, punctuated the Dries Van Noten menswear show today in the former sorting office of the French Post and Customs and Excise. Van Noten has a knack for finding incredible venues in the center of Paris that no one has ever used before and this was no exception.

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Jan 19, 2018 11:13:00
Yohji Yamamoto, fall 2018

Pushing Boundaries at Yohji Yamamoto

The invitation was giving nothing away, in true Yohji style. It was an orange cardboard envelope with an illustration of samurai fighting dragons and a single sheet of black paper in between. Black on the inside? Orange is the new black? Or, simply the king of black saying again, “I don’t bother you — don’t bother me.”

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Jan 18, 2018 18:38:00
Louis Vuitton, fall 2018

Sentimental Send-Off at Louis Vuitton

The rumor that had been floating around was confirmed yesterday, ahead of the Louis Vuitton menswear show this morning: Kim Jones, Men’s Artistic Director, was leaving the label after seven successful years at the helm. Jones is famed for his clairvoyant ability to see the rise of streetwear to the realm of high fashion, a trait that he solidified last season with the too-good-to-be-true Supreme x Louis Vuitton collaboration, a hype-beast’s wet dream. It almost seems as if that collaboration would have been the perfect swan song, but it was clear today that he wasn't quite finished.

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Jan 18, 2018 16:59:00
Walter Van Beirendonck, fall 2018

Tops and Bottoms and Pigs, Oh My!

For Fall, Walter Van Beirendonck again plunged the fetishistic, crypto-sexual realm of human behavior. The Belgian men's designer fitted holes at the nipples and crotch of assorted leather and latex jackets worn by waifish, Bowie-esque models. Elsewhere he spelled out sexual positions — i.e. Top, Bottom — and the word Pig, a label loaded with meaning among some circles. To be sure, this was an embrace of hard-core hedonism and erotic unorthodoxy in a neo-prudish age. 

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Jan 17, 2018 17:54:00

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