WOA looks

WOA Looks from Paris Men's Spring 2017

They're intended to inspire, and inspire they do. Here, our WOA (work of art) picks from the Paris men's shows...

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Jun 27, 2016 12:30:00
Thom Browne spring 2017

Survival of the Fit: Thom Browne Men's Spring 2017

Thom Browne's show started with a voiceover: “Good evening, everyone. This is Thom Browne. Before we start, I thought it would be appropriate to observe a moment of silence for the incomparable Bill Cunningham.” In its obituary, the New York Times noted that the photographer, an outstandingly dedicated follower of fashion, resisted the trends of celebrity dressing.

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Jun 26, 2016 17:20:00
Lanvin spring 2017

Dishy Dishabille: Lanvin Men's Spring 2017

Following the appointment of Bouchra Jarrar as the new womenswear artistic director, and Lucas Ossendrijver celebrating his tenth anniversary on the men's side, it is no surprise that all eyes were on Lanvin's men's show today. Jarrar sat front row with her family, eager to show her support, in another change in venue, this time in the cavernous industrial contemporary-art mecca Palais de Tokyo.

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Jun 26, 2016 12:17:00
Dior Homme spring 2017

Refined Renegades: Dior Homme Men's Spring 2017

Attending Kris Van Assche's first show for his now-defunct eponymous label at the Espace Commines back in 2005, it was obvious that he had client-pleasing on his mind, that he was no "three-sleeve jacket designer." Eleven years later, ensconced in his plum job at Dior Homme (quite a feat in an era of designer musical chairs), he still basically has the same message. His shows don't contain concepts that few understand.

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Jun 26, 2016 11:10:00
Sacai spring 2017

Rosy Outlook: Sacai Men's Spring 2017

In her own fashionable way, Sacai's Chitose Abe sought to bring love and joy to the world — a "horrowshow" — for spring. She colorized military items — boiler suit, MA1 jacket — in bright pink, stitched pineapple motifs into mohair sweaters, modernized Mexican ponchos, joined Afghan detailing and British paisley, and applied clusters of slogan-less velvet pins to jackets.

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Jun 25, 2016 15:25:00
Pigalle spring 2017

Bride and Grooming: Pigalle Men's Spring 2017

As far as I know, the first and last time a fashion show doubled as a wedding ceremony was back in 2011 at Imitation of Christ in New York, when Tara Subkoff orchestrated a wedding between Lydia Hearst and actor Miles Fischer, which turned out to be a fake.

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Jun 25, 2016 11:27:00
Ann Demeulemeester spring 2017

The Male Sylph : Ann Demeulemeester Men's Spring 2017

Translating Ann Demeulemeester's dark and poetic message for a new generation is Sébastien Meunier's task at the house the cult namesake designer left two years ago.

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Jun 25, 2016 02:15:00
Comme des Garçons spring 2017

Naked Truth: Comme des Garçons Men's Spring 2017

Winning the award for most lo-fi invitation of the season, with what looked like a badly transmitted fax on slippery thermal paper, Rei Kawakubo, founder and head of Comme des Garçons was firing shots. In an unusually vocal collection, loaded with phrases such as ‘The King is Naked Shout Out Aloud’, ‘It’s My Fashion,’ and ‘Pride Before the Fall’ she utilized the moral of Hans Christian Andersen’s cautionary tale The Emperor’s New Clothes.

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Jun 24, 2016 21:13:00
Maison Margiela spring 2017

Inside Out: Maison Margiela Men's Spring 2017

For spring 2017, Maison Margiela had the ambitious goal to "define the role of man in today's society, his uniform, his armor, and the tactile underpinnings of his sartorial wardrobe." This partly translated into soft tailoring with visible basting stitches, worn with brogues that morphed into sandals at the back.

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Jun 24, 2016 21:12:00

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