Thom Browne's show started with a voiceover: “Good evening, everyone. This is Thom Browne. Before we start, I thought it would be appropriate to observe a moment of silence for the incomparable Bill Cunningham.” In its obituary, the New York Times noted that the photographer, an outstandingly dedicated follower of fashion, resisted the trends of celebrity dressing.
Following the appointment of Bouchra Jarrar as the new womenswear artistic director, and Lucas Ossendrijver celebrating his tenth anniversary on the men's side, it is no surprise that all eyes were on Lanvin's men's show today. Jarrar sat front row with her family, eager to show her support, in another change in venue, this time in the cavernous industrial contemporary-art mecca Palais de Tokyo.
Attending Kris Van Assche's first show for his now-defunct eponymous label at the Espace Commines back in 2005, it was obvious that he had client-pleasing on his mind, that he was no "three-sleeve jacket designer." Eleven years later, ensconced in his plum job at Dior Homme (quite a feat in an era of designer musical chairs), he still basically has the same message. His shows don't contain concepts that few understand.
In her own fashionable way, Sacai's Chitose Abe sought to bring love and joy to the world — a "horrowshow" — for spring. She colorized military items — boiler suit, MA1 jacket — in bright pink, stitched pineapple motifs into mohair sweaters, modernized Mexican ponchos, joined Afghan detailing and British paisley, and applied clusters of slogan-less velvet pins to jackets.
As far as I know, the first and last time a fashion show doubled as a wedding ceremony was back in 2011 at Imitation of Christ in New York, when Tara Subkoff orchestrated a wedding between Lydia Hearst and actor Miles Fischer, which turned out to be a fake.
Translating Ann Demeulemeester's dark and poetic message for a new generation is Sébastien Meunier's task at the house the cult namesake designer left two years ago.
Winning the award for most lo-fi invitation of the season, with what looked like a badly transmitted fax on slippery thermal paper, Rei Kawakubo, founder and head of Comme des Garçons was firing shots. In an unusually vocal collection, loaded with phrases such as ‘The King is Naked Shout Out Aloud’, ‘It’s My Fashion,’ and ‘Pride Before the Fall’ she utilized the moral of Hans Christian Andersen’s cautionary tale The Emperor’s New Clothes.
For spring 2017, Maison Margiela had the ambitious goal to "define the role of man in today's society, his uniform, his armor, and the tactile underpinnings of his sartorial wardrobe." This partly translated into soft tailoring with visible basting stitches, worn with brogues that morphed into sandals at the back.