Yohji Yamamoto fall 2017

Working It: Yohji Yamamoto Men's Fall 2017

With an acoustic guitar soundtrack that we take to be Yohji Yamamoto himself, the boys walked in mostly suited looks. But, as ever, the devil was in the details. Shirt collars were explored in ways that we have never seen before, at times dripping like paint running down a wall, and at times geometrically cut in unexpected shapes, but somehow retaining their place as collars. Jackets had similarly transformative elements, with panels unzipped at the back, and sleeves sewn on top of the sleeve head, rather than into. Tricks that only a quiet master can pull off.

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Jan 20, 2017 09:17:00
Rick Owens fall 2017

Grit & Glitter: Rick Owens Men's Fall 2017

Watching Rick Owens' models ascend the winding staircase inside the Palais de Tokyo, their hands lifting their elephantine pants, their sculptural puffer outerwear trailing behind them, with Montserrat Caballé's moving voice on the soundtrack, was to imagine what Cristobal Balenciaga could have created had he designed menswear today.

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Jan 19, 2017 19:12:00
Louis Vuitton fall 2017

Kim Jones & The Supremes: Louis Vuitton Men's Fall 2017

The invitation should have been a giveaway in its familiar red tone, especially given the social-media frenzy following a certain leaked Instagram image. If it wasn't, the reality became clear in the first exit today: Louis Vuitton had officially collaborated with Supreme New York.

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Jan 19, 2017 17:54:00
Walter Van Beirendonck, fall 17

What the Folk?

The audience at the Walter Van Beirendonck show was greeted with plastic satchels containing ear plugs, a hint that the Belgian designer would treat them to a boisterous affair.

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Jan 18, 2017 18:01:00
Gucci pre-fall 2017

Higher Learning: Gucci Pre-Fall 2017

Gucci's Alessandro Michele piled on the references, eras, patterns, textures, and of course colors — the richer the better — for pre-fall 2017, shot in two antique bookstores-cum-curiosity-shops in Rome...

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Dec 15, 2016 19:57:00
Chanel spring 2017

Googling It: Chanel Spring 2017

It's official: Karl Lagerfeld, an avowed bibliophile, has joined the Information Age. Data centers, in all of their wired wizardry, were the theme for his Chanel show this morning, with laser prints, security-clearance necklaces, hacker caps, and two friendly robots who opened the show. When you think about it, Lagerfeld's intricate tweeds for the house already resemble circuit boards. All of which begs the question: What would Karl search for?

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Oct 04, 2016 06:24:00
Alexander McQueen spring 2017

Ladies of the Knit: Alexander McQueen Spring 2017

Few places are as synonymous with knitwear as Scotland. One of those places is Shetland, an island chain to the north of, well, Scotland that is, well, a Scottish territory. One of Shetland's islands gives its name to Fair Isle sweaters, so clearly the woolen craft is a big deal there.

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Oct 03, 2016 17:14:00

Riches to Rags: Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017

Vivienne Westwood can be counted on for a bit of witty, wicked historicism. Her spring collection — now designed with her partner Andreas Kronthaler — was no exception. The central theme was, specifically, the crumbling of European societies and the dystopian mess the continent finds itself in.

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Oct 01, 2016 20:42:00
Balenciaga spring 17

Latex Love: Balenciaga Spring 2017

For his sophomore outing at Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia created extra-wide silhouettes, echoing the couturier's lauded sculptural style, and amped up the color and kink, to appeal to his own fanbase.

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Oct 02, 2016 09:36:00

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