For Schiaparelli couture, designer Bertrand Guyon had the clever idea to reimagine Elsa Schiaparelli's iconic Circus collection from 1938.
In Paris today, Vetements showed its spring collection, the one that got heaps of advance attention for merging men's and women's, and for consisting almost entirely of collaborations with other brands — eighteen of them, to be exact, from Levi’s and Carhartt to Juicy Couture and Brioni.
The leading of Alexander McQueen into the light, away from the namesake's darker impulses, is nearly complete. For resort 2017, Sarah Burton looked to that quintessentially British conceit — floral wallpaper — for inspiration, which she applied to demi-couture cocktail attire and exquisite gowns in every way possible except by digital print, and all by hand...
John Galliano continued in his voguish vagabond theme for Maison Margiela resort 2017, though slightly more athletic — and now with a buzzy accessory...
They're intended to inspire, and inspire they do. Here, our WOA (work of art) picks from the Paris men's shows...
Thom Browne's show started with a voiceover: “Good evening, everyone. This is Thom Browne. Before we start, I thought it would be appropriate to observe a moment of silence for the incomparable Bill Cunningham.” In its obituary, the New York Times noted that the photographer, an outstandingly dedicated follower of fashion, resisted the trends of celebrity dressing.
Following the appointment of Bouchra Jarrar as the new womenswear artistic director, and Lucas Ossendrijver celebrating his tenth anniversary on the men's side, it is no surprise that all eyes were on Lanvin's men's show today. Jarrar sat front row with her family, eager to show her support, in another change in venue, this time in the cavernous industrial contemporary-art mecca Palais de Tokyo.
Attending Kris Van Assche's first show for his now-defunct eponymous label at the Espace Commines back in 2005, it was obvious that he had client-pleasing on his mind, that he was no "three-sleeve jacket designer." Eleven years later, ensconced in his plum job at Dior Homme (quite a feat in an era of designer musical chairs), he still basically has the same message. His shows don't contain concepts that few understand.
In her own fashionable way, Sacai's Chitose Abe sought to bring love and joy to the world — a "horrowshow" — for spring. She colorized military items — boiler suit, MA1 jacket — in bright pink, stitched pineapple motifs into mohair sweaters, modernized Mexican ponchos, joined Afghan detailing and British paisley, and applied clusters of slogan-less velvet pins to jackets.
