Fyodor Golan fall 15

WTF Looks from London Fall 2015

They're intended to shock, and shock they do. Here, our WTF picks from the London fall shows...


Fyodor Golan


Fyodor Golan

 


 


Tata Naka


Tata Naka


Toga


Toga


Sibling


Sibling


Vivienne Westwood


Vivienne Westwood


Vivienne Westwood


J.W. Anderson


J.W. Anderson


Simone Rocha


Simone Rocha


Simone Rocha


Giles


Giles


Giles


Roksanda


Roksanda


Gareth Pugh


Gareth Pugh


Gareth Pugh


Claire Barrow


Claire Barrow


Ashish


Ashish


House of Holland


House of Holland


Phoebe English


Phoebe English


Danielle Romeril


Danielle Romeril


Erdem


Erdem


Marques'Almeida


Marques'Almeida

Feb 24, 2015 21:30:00
Christopher Kane fall 15

Shock of the Nude: Christopher Kane Fall 2015

Late last week, Christopher Kane opened his first store — on London's Mount Street — and celebrated it today with a bacchanalia-like fall show. Specifically, the last section featured naked, writhing, nipple-pinching human figures in a kind of love-in, patched together (not printed) to form colorful dresses and tops along the lines of the Austrian artist Egon Schiele's twisted, sexualized portraits from a century ago.

Except for the oddly dangling feet, these pieces were delightfully provocative and suggestively droll. Otherwise the show was fairly vanilla. Unrelated elements — geometric prints, statement frills, velvet tuxedos, and a pretty great electric zigzag motif — were groped at, but ultimately lacked the orgiastic cohesion of those debauched final looks.

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Feb 23, 2015 20:09:00
Burberry fall 15

For Folk's Sake: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2015

Feeling folksy for fall, Christopher Bailey packed his Burberry collection with all sorts of '60s signifiers. He gave his specific shout-outs of the recent past — Bloomsbury Group, Bruce Chatwin, Lucian Freud — the (suede) boot in favor of a generalized yet impeccable artsy-craftsy, hippie-dippie, boho-loco vibe.

Bailey's remix of that original music-festival look produced blanket ponchos, dense plant and floral prints, similarly biomorphic patchwork, paisley bandanna motifs, grassy faux-fur coats, and the house's trademark trenches gussied up with loads of fringe. Woodstock was never like this.

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Feb 23, 2015 17:11:00
JW Anderson fall 15

The Decade Taste Forgot: JW Anderson Fall 2015

Homages to the eighties are nothing new, but few have been as gung-ho as the JW Anderson show in London. Jonathan Anderson sent out a knowingly garish yet polished array of graphic shapes in graphic colors; big, awkward shoulders; randomly placed fringe; enormous, shapeless leather coats; belt buckles big enough to be bookends; and leather boots scrunched up like leg warmers.

At times, pieces and pairings thereof were plain ugly — intentionally so — like one ooze-green top that looked like overgrown swamp muck paired with a skirt made entirely of tassels, itself worn with green corduroy pants. Or the opening look, a droopy gold Lurex number. Exaggerated geometric shapes for jewelry (earrings were also mismatched) and bags completed the artful Patrick Nagel sendup.


Feb 21, 2015 21:37:00
Marc Jacobs fall 15

V Is for Vreeland: Marc Jacobs Fall 2015

Marc Jacobs is one of few New York designers to buck the city's reputation for no-imagination sportswear. For fall he once again blended oblique old-school glamour with a highly polished sense of now. To a cacophonous soundtrack of violin strikes, his girls walked quickly in clothes that, at first blush, appeared more sophisticated than their years — as if they were lost in opulent reverie. A stoic Erin O'Connor opened, followed by the whole crop of new-gen models, each dripping in extravagant sequins, elaborate patchwork, rich brocades, and dramatic furs — as well as several mohair plaids, a nod to Jacobs' grunge days.

There was good reason for all the fanciful retrospection. The show was an ode to the great Diana Vreeland, she of limitless powers of fantasy and self-invention. The walls and backdrop in the Park Avenue Armory were rendered as a re-creation of the famed fashion editor's red-lacquered salon in her home (also on Park Avenue, just down the street), where many of her enigmatic proclamations were first uttered. She fondly called it her "garden in hell."

Among her many accomplishments — before joining Vogue as editor-in-chief and later rescuing the Met's yearly fashion exhibition and the Met Gala itself — Vreeland is credited with essentially shaping American fashion as we know it. Working at Harper's Bazaar (where she wrote her Why Don't You? column) before, during and after WWII, she salvaged the know-how of shuttered Paris couture houses and merged it with American can-do ingenuity. During those 25 years at the magazine, she ignited a bustling postwar industry with global reach smack in the middle of Manhattan. Couldn't the same be said for Marc Jacobs, still fresh from his Louis Vuitton sojourn?

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Feb 20, 2015 00:09:00
Proenza Schouler fall 15

Getting Graphic: Proenza Schouler Fall 2015

The Proenza Schouler boys like to toss around hefty inspirations — for fall it's mid-century American abstract expressionism — but ultimately their passion is fabric innovation. So while they replaced the primal, floor-length fringe of spring (and pre-fall) with a spontaneous, undone effect reminiscent of Helen Frankenthaler's bold color splashes or Mark Rothko's perfectly imperfect paintings, fabrics remained the duo's driving force. And they were just as hefty.

Along with handcrafted tweeds and bouclé, many of the initial pieces were felted out of a heavy-duty crepe, the kind used in men's suiting, here bonded with layers of chiffon. Elsewhere, body-con bandage and all-over sequin dresses — seriously, enormous piles of sequins — with strategic cutouts stole the show. Other standouts were sumptuous astrakhan-lined pony skirts and dresses, a cowbell on the soundtrack providing subliminal reinforcement.

Shoes made entirely out of fabric (as in no hardware) and knotted just so rounded out the carefully studied insouciance of the collection, the kind that keeps those elusive yet very real 'cool girls' galloping back for more. This time they'll no doubt scoop up the single men's look for themselves, sparkly see-through separates so obviously draped on a male model to shamelessly tease the audience. It worked.

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Feb 18, 2015 23:02:00
Thom Browne fall 15

Mourning Glory: Thom Browne Fall 2015

You could say that Thom Browne, or at least his design sensibility, is in a mourning period. So it's unclear whether he inspired the Met's 'Death Becomes Her' fashion exhibit that ended two weeks ago — the museum's new fall/winter programming between the major Met Gala shows each spring — or vice versa. (The fact that he's inamoratos with a curator at the Costume Institute keeps the distinction as cloaked as the black veils we saw today.)

But it hardly matters. Either way, Browne's somber, elegiac collection — that, like the exhibit, took its cues from well-heeled quasi-Edwardian women in mourning — was magnificent. To a mix of melancholy new material from Bjork, models in all black moved slowly around the space, almost levitating, in exquisite finery that could easily have been couture (in fact, Browne is rather obsessed with the European craft). Editors were leaning in to see the handiwork, from feather embroidery to tight astrakhan trim to tidy black leather gloves, plus lots and lots of zippers.

It wasn't all doom and gloom though; Browne is also noted for a droll sense of humor. This season he trawled out a curious whale motif that we've seen before from him, stitching it into various pieces, most memorably on the bottom of a long skirt. Think of it as his mascot. And come to think of it, the last look bared midriff and a few looks earlier showed an abundance of underboob — cheeky! Meanwhile, as usual, the London milliner Stephen Jones made the funny little hats and veils that completed the funereal theme.

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Feb 16, 2015 20:58:00
Hood By Air fall 15

The Skin You're In: Hood By Air Fall 2015

Models with faces shrink-wrapped in hosiery may have been a nod to dapper mobsters or it may have been a jab at Kanye West's Adidas collection of a few days ago. More likely it was a reminder of designer Shayne Oliver's roots in the gender-fuck demimonde of East Brooklyn, a signifier stripped of significance.

Not that a reminder was needed. For all his growing up this season — knits, fur, elevated tailoring, and at least one button-up shirt actually buttoned all the way up — Oliver doesn't feel the need to tuck his core principles. Mixing a walk-of-shame attitude (sans shame) with 90s excess, he wears his HBA right on his sleeve. 

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Feb 15, 2015 19:12:00
Alexander Wang fall 15

Alternative Realities: Alexander Wang Fall 2015

Fashion's grudging rejection of black and slow embrace of cheerier colors, which took many seasons to get up to speed (beginning largely with Raf Simons at Jil Sander), is now at risk of serious backstepping — although one could argue a correction has been due for some time.

For fall, Alexander Wang abandoned his own sporty raver chicks and sent out a nearly all-black and quite cheeky collection — a glam version of Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice. The blobs of black he showed in various shell and coat shapes, covering almost every inch of skin, were about as far removed from insouciant femininity as one could get, complete with studded monster-style platform boots.

It would have been an ode to gothic '80s were it not for a smattering of grunge '90s tartans, thick-gauge cream sweaters, and diaphanous chain-link dresses at the end. A droll nod to the great alterna-styles of recent history, especially coming from Wang, is a guaranteed hit and an instant classic.

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Feb 15, 2015 13:17:00

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