Thom Browne fall 2017

No Limits: Thom Browne Fall 2017

Another season, another head-scratcher from Thom Browne, who's emerging as New York's foremost conceptualist. Again he borrowed from the traditional men's wardrobe — he's mostly a men's designer, so he's allowed — to craft imaginative penguin suits and clever riffs on formality that eventually exploded into bright crayon-colored pastoral scenes. The dog bag from last season is back, and this he has a buddy, a penguin...

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Feb 15, 2017 19:34:00
Laurence & Chico fall 2017

Sleeper Hit: Laurence & Chico

The idea of in-flight slumber — or lack thereof — informed Laurence & Chico's fall collection, designed by husbands Laurence Li and Chico Wang...

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Feb 11, 2017 19:59:00
Calvin Klein fall 2017

Bold Age: Calvin Klein Fall 2017

With shredded Stars and Stripes streaming from the ceiling (set design by artist Ruby Sterling) and David Bowie's This Is Not America blaring, the political stance of Raf Simons was made perfectly clear at his Calvin Klein debut. As it turned out, the thrilling premiere of his post-Dior era also happens to coincide with a very precarious moment for American democracy.

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Feb 10, 2017 12:18:00
Kenzo fall 2017

Surf's Up: Kenzo Men's Fall 2017

For the second time, and for the foreseeable future, Kenzo showed both their menswear and womenswear collections at the same time. It made for an epic 88-look show, with clipped audio from Obama's climate change speeches. It was only natural that New Yorkers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, Kenzo’s creative directors since 2011, would have the controversial presidential election on their minds. Trump’s inauguration took place the day before the show, and immediately all references to climate change were removed from the official White House website.

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Jan 23, 2017 13:46:00
Thom Browne fall 2017

Suits You: Thom Browne Men's Fall 2017

As Thom Browne's dark-lipsticked models walked down his Paris runway with the speed of a vacationing snail — in bodysuits astonishingly pieced together with more a thousand buttons, then in flat panels of those same suits held together by around 800 buttons, then in their more normal versions with just 600 buttons — one was left with plenty of time to ponder this ending to fashion week, and menswear in general.

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Jan 23, 2017 11:40:00
Dior Homme fall 2017

Hard Core: Dior Homme Fall 2017

A hyperrealist mosh-pit painting by New York street artist Dan Witz was featured on Dior Homme's invitation. It depicts sweaty fans writhing at hardcore music gigs. He claimed, in an interview with The Creators Project last March, that “the greatest single influence on my painting … comes from the music I’ve grown up with. The artists I most admire have almost always been musicians, and most of my best ideas come from the transgressive energy.”

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Jan 22, 2017 20:05:00
Dries Van Noten fall 2017

Future Retro: Dries Van Noten Men's Fall 2017

The Dries Van Noten show took place in a seemingly endless tunnel bathed in red light under a railway line on the périphérique. The relentless drums of Iggy Pop’s 1977 seminal hit Lust For Life looped hypnotically as three to four boys walked the runway at the same time, marching in heavy leather shoes and boots.

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Jan 21, 2017 06:33:00
Comme des Garçons fall 2017

Boy Toys: Comme des Garçons Men's Fall 2017

Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garcons' collections tend to be analyzed ad nauseam — no surprise given their enigmatic nature. Her upcoming retrospective at the Met will certainly be the most exhaustive, definitive analysis yet, the prep work for which must be enormously intensive for the curators, and no doubt taxing for the designer.

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Jan 20, 2017 16:03:00
Yohji Yamamoto fall 2017

Working It: Yohji Yamamoto Men's Fall 2017

With an acoustic guitar soundtrack that we take to be Yohji Yamamoto himself, the boys walked in mostly suited looks. But, as ever, the devil was in the details. Shirt collars were explored in ways that we have never seen before, at times dripping like paint running down a wall, and at times geometrically cut in unexpected shapes, but somehow retaining their place as collars. Jackets had similarly transformative elements, with panels unzipped at the back, and sleeves sewn on top of the sleeve head, rather than into. Tricks that only a quiet master can pull off.

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Jan 20, 2017 09:17:00

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