Maison Margiela fall 16

Autobiographical: Maison Margiela Fall 2016

John Galliano is still working out a shared vocabulary with Maison Margiela. More and more, however, the emphasis is on Galliano's familiar tropes — his eccentric women rather than Margiela's studied anonymity. 

As with the latest couture collection, Artisanal, Galliano cobbled together seemingly found objects and thrift-store detritus to give the appearance of someone who'd gone through a hardscrabble stint, only to emerge victorious. Sound familiar? Colorful bangles, puffy iridescent bits, army-surplus scraps, and assorted knits were fused together in magpie fashion, with a sense of raggedy refinement and willful humor.

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Mar 02, 2016 12:23:00
Jacquemus fall 16

Surreal World: Jacquemus Fall 2016

A sparkly nightgown attached to the front of a tank? Sure. A white shirt worn backward? Yes, yes, yes. A single puffy glove? Obviously.

Anything is possible in Jacquemus's surreal world, where toying around with perception is always the goal. While not on a par with great shape-shifters of our day, e.g. Viktor & Rolf or Comme des Garçons, Jacquemus' misshapen, mismatched, misbehaved creations can still stand on their own.

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Mar 01, 2016 14:54:00

Up in Smoke: Moschino Fall 2016

Jeremy Scott said his Moschino collection today had to do with medieval Dominican monks who, in their zeal to stop the Renaissance, burned every item of sinful beauty they could get their hands on. As if smoldering dresses weren't enough, he stoked the fiery motif for its full potential — cigarettes, candle chandeliers, and even a bad-girl biker theme. Cartoonish and madcap, sure, but at least he's bringing some high-camp heat to the rather staid Milan shows.

 

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Feb 25, 2016 19:53:00
Prada fall 16

Scene Stealing: Prada Fall 2016

For her women's collection today, Miuccia Prada pursued her fascination with art appropriation, historical ambiguity, and gender swapping. 

An avowed patron of the arts, she didn't have to go very far for those fantastic layered landscapes and filmic freeze-frames. The latter, prints by Berlin artist Christophe Chemin, were a carryover from Prada's most recent men’s collection — in the same venue, no less, a custom-built agora.

The mensy looks, too, hailed from the men's side. The sailor caps, the meandering thread, the oversized plaid overcoats all seemed to suggest travel through space and time — a worldly message driven home by charm bracelets and necklaces dangling with little souvenirs and diary books.

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Feb 25, 2016 14:00:00
Gucci fall 16

Bold Age: Gucci Fall 2016

Gucci's new creative director Alessandro Michele isn't afraid of a little color, or a lot. Or shapes. Or materials. He utilizes them wildly, boldly, yet judiciously when called for. All of which makes for a sensuous bounty — a pleasure to watch season after season.

Perhaps his largest lineup to date, fall saw more of Michele's eclectic characters: his cocktail-party girls, gala-goers, retro-diggers, and his mousy, studious types. Cascades of rainbow chiffon, piles of brocades, layers of sequins, and a ring on every finger (as the designer himself wears) fit together like pieces from different jigsaw puzzles — mismatched yet so right. This is the art of randomness.

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Feb 24, 2016 10:30:00

WTF Looks from London Fall 2016

They're intended to shock, and shock they do. Here, our WTF picks from the London fall shows...


Richard Quinn (Central St Martins)

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Feb 23, 2016 10:30:00
Christopher Kane fall 16

Lost and Not Found: Christopher Kane Fall 2016

Christopher Kane likes to be boldly unpredictable. In recent seasons he's drawn inspiration from car crashes and outsider art, to name but two of his many creative forays. But he really outdid himself for fall, an unapologetic ode to faded glamour, decayed beauty, the lost and not found.

Here was thrift-store dressing hoarded to its logical conclusion. Corrugated beige leather resembled cardboard boxes; time-lapse photos of decomposing flowers were appliqued throughout; embroideries — some made by the house of Lesage — were piled high; and mink was lined with reflective fabrics. And Stephen Jones whipped up clear plastic headscarves à la Grey Gardens that would give Little Edie pause.

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Feb 22, 2016 17:48:00
Burberry fall 16

Coat Overload: Burberry Fall 2016

Burberry made headlines a few weeks ago with the announcement that, starting with its September collection, it would become a more consumer-facing brand. Specifically, it would sell pieces to the public immediately following collections.

It'll be a nothing short of an overhaul of its business model, for which Christopher Bailey seemed to prepare in this fall collection. He refrained from grand creative experiments in favor of recent greatest hits. His various influences of seasons past — Bloomsbury Group, Lucian Freud, music festivals, military — came together in a splashy way all but engineered to appeal to everyone.

Coats were paid special attention, coming out as plaid overcoats for men and women, duffles with oversized toggle buttons, exaggerated shearlings, green or yellow python numbers, and furry cocoons.

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Feb 22, 2016 13:00:00
Alexander McQueen fall 16

Dream Catching: Alexander McQueen Fall 2016

Sarah Burton's collections for Alexander McQueen have always been dreamy. Fall was dream-like, a sartorial lullaby from which you'll never want to wake.

She started out with hand-painted oneiric objects that seemed to float across their leather surface — clocks, lips, and butterflies evocative of a Dalí painting.

From there Burton went very, very soft with endless chiffon and tulle in countless cream-to-pink shades. Unicorns embroidered across several dresses at show's end beamed the meaning of all this, that McQueen is where the impossible becomes possible.

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Feb 21, 2016 16:47:00

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