Thom Browne, spring 2018

Skirting the Issue at Thom Browne

After seasons of dissecting and adorning his signature taut gray suits in elaborately staged spectacles in an industrial space in the north of Paris, Thom Browne decided to show his summer 2018 collection in the ritzy glass courtyard of the Ecole des Beaux Arts.

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Jun 25, 2017 20:32:00
Dior Homme, spring 2018

Short Stories: Dior Homme Spring 2018

The title given to today's Dior Homme show, Latenight Summer, seemed to refer more to the English-adopted French term soirée, than any late-night summer party we’ve been to. A parade of immaculate, painfully beautiful boys showed off artistic director Kris Van Assche’s impeccable tailoring skills. But, he was quick to point out that it wasn’t all down to him, as the collection was a heartfelt celebration of the fantastic Christian Dior atelier team.

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Jun 25, 2017 15:03:00
Comme des Garçons, spring 2018

Comme des Garçons Men's Spring 2018

Following her triumphant takeover of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, it seemed that Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo was ready to party and let her hair down at today's Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show.

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Jun 23, 2017 16:43:00
Junya Watanabe, spring 2018

Wabi-Sabi Goes to Work: Junya Watanabe Men's Spring 2018

In Japan there is an aesthetic term called wabi-sabi, which translated as the idea that fabrics look more beautiful as they age and take on the form, the wear and tear, of their owner. It is exemplified by the use of boro stitching and patch-working that was traditionally practiced by the poorer working classes, to mend their clothes in expensive fabrics to give them a longer lifespan. The more the garment was mended, the more elaborate it became, with some stitching so intricate that it essentially became embellishment.

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Jun 23, 2017 16:00:00
Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2018

Yohji Yamamoto's New Man

The invitation for Yohji was an accordion-pleat scribbled image that looked like a Christopher Wool painting with plenty to say, covered in provocative Yamamoto soundbites such as ‘Give me one more chance,’ ‘Don’t be body-shaming,’ and ‘Too old to die.’ It was suitably cryptic, and gave little away as to Yamamoto’s intentions.

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Jun 23, 2017 11:05:00
Rick Owens, spring 2018

Epic Proportions: Rick Owens Men's Spring 2018

In an exceptional show of epic, Cecil B. DeMille proportions, Rick Owens laid to rest all those assumptions about fashion shows' irrelevance in an internet age. The experience of attending such a stellar performance, with its 15 meter-high scaffolding runway set against the monumental building of the Palais de Tokyo, and its pitch-perfect combination of clothing, music, casting and venue, left the convincing feel that the show is still the thing. True, such moments are rare, but they're worth waiting for.

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Jun 22, 2017 17:03:00
Louis Vuitton, spring 2018

Island Life: Louis Vuitton Men's Spring 2018

On the hottest day in Paris in 145 years, we stepped out 37-degree heat to find the Louis Vuitton spring 2018 menswear show under plastic sheeting at the magnificent Palais Royale. Before the show started everyone scuttled under the scarce shaded borders, fanning themselves and gulping the complimentary ice-cold water — a real tropical moment before Louis Vuitton’s menswear artistic director, Kim Jones, gave us his own tropical moment.

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Jun 24, 2017 16:55:00
Walter Van Beirendonck, spring 2018

When Ziggy Met Pablo

Walter Van Beirendonck's show title, Owls Whisper, was cryptic, to say the least, but his inspirations seemed pretty obvious.

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Jun 21, 2017 22:20:00
Y/Project, spring 2018

Big League: Y/Project Spring 2018

The heat sure was all over Paris today, with sweaty editors fanning madly at the shows. But the kind of heat one can expect from such a hyped brand as Y/Project couldn't be felt at its spring 2018 show.

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Jun 21, 2017 19:04:00

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