Given America's increasing wealth disparity and gender erosion, it was only a matter of time before the country's first trans/drag/gay/queer street gang emerged. The 200+ members of Check It, as the gang is called, don't think of it as a gang at all, but rather a sisterhood started out of necessity by three bullied 9th graders in Washington D.C.
A documentary in the works, co-produced by Steve Buscemi, will take a look at the band of mostly teens that, when not committing crimes and striking back at abusers, is hoping a fashion line will be their way out of the inner city. A crowdfunding campaign has been launched on Indiegogo to raise $60,000 to complete the film. At the time of this writing, they were about a third the way there.
"Our documentary subjects seem to be unlikely gang–bangers," says the page on Indiegogo. "Some of the boys wear lipstick and mascara, some stilettos. They carry Louis Vuitton bags, but they also carry knives, brass knuckles and mace. As vulnerable gay and transgender youth, they’ve been shot, stabbed and raped...They’ve now turned the tables, and they're fighting back."
Here's the trailer...
Plenty of great bags have bounced down the Paris runways so far, but none quite like this titillating number at Lemaire, literally fashioned after a pair of knockers — and impressive knockers at that. You'd never expect it from the normally reserved and minimal designer Christophe Lemaire, formerly of Hermès, and that's precisely why the 'boob bag,' as it's been dubbed, is so brilliant. (It also bears a striking resemblance to the Scrotal Sack by the Turner Prize-winning UK artist and cross-dresser Grayson Perry — or rather, by his alter ego Claire.)
Here are other winsome bags from the fall collections in Paris...
It seems like forever ago that Kanye West showed his exhaustingly pretentious collection of torn sweats and tees and things — in collab with Adidas Originals — and said it was "solutions-based", that he was taking a "Robin Hood approach...to making clothes." You'll recall the whole affair, which kicked off New York Fashion Week, was quite lamentable: Northwest wailed, causing Anna Wintour to reprimand Kimye for bringing a baby; editors criticized the extremely late start; and the whole world groaned at the celebrity-draped front row.
But you can forget about forgetting about the sad, forced abomination because here comes the equally outrageous pricing, acquired by the streetwear site High Snobiety. They put the bulk of the stuff — sweats, hoodies, tees — around $425 apiece. Yeah. Knitwear, meanwhile, will begin around $868 and spiral upwards to $1,627. Outerwear — we'll admit there were some nice coats, even if none of them pushed the envelope — will range from $1,736 to $3,797, and accessories from $488 (canvas backpack) to $868 (leather bag). The shoes, however, are priced to sell, as expected. The Yeezy 750 Boost has already been released for $350, while the Duck boot will retail for $466 and the Yeezy 350 Boost knit sneaker for $206.
High Snobiety says the reason for the steep prices is due to "absolutely top-notch quality that will give luxury houses a run for their money. Each piece is made in Italy at some of the world’s best factories, using only the finest materials." Fine, if that's the case. But here's the thing. West's music fans, the great majority of them at least, will scoff at those digits, while West's newfound fashion fans, well, there aren't very many of those. If anything, the offensive pricing undermines the good work Adidas does with the likes of Raf Simons and Rick Owens.
For the record, here's the full quote he gave Style.com: “I don’t pander to [fashion], I’m trying to learn from it. Because I believe there’s some information in it that can help people have better lives. And it’s being held and blocked and not given to the people. So this is very much a Robin Hood approach that I have to making clothes...I’m only concerned with making beautiful products available to as many people as possible.”
In fashion, history is often synonymous with chic. And the Spanish, who've had to surrender their pride to exalted French glamour (Cristóbal Balenciaga is perhaps the most stinging loss, though he'd surely have contended he's Basque), continue to boast that Loewe hails from the Iberian peninsula. “There’s so much goodwill for Loewe in Spain,” says Jonathan Anderson, the London-based designer who, in 2013, succeeded Stuart Vevers as the company’s creative director. “They see it as their only luxury brand, so they’re very protective of it.”
The name is a little difficult to pronounce (something akin to low-ay-vay), in effect discouraging gratuitous name-dropping among competitive fashion chatter. But make no mistake, Loewe is on many lips. In his new role at the storied house, Anderson is luring so-called millennials with an easy charm and a subversive cool. By placing an emphasis on craftsmanship and soft carnality, he's piquing intrigue among jetsetters and Snapchatters alike.
Then there are those ingenious campaigns by — and of — Steven Meisel. Just today the house pre-released another image from the upcoming fall campaign, a picture of the enigmatic photographer when he was a child. So while Loewe doesn’t enjoy manic rounds of devotion, at least not to the extent of its flashier siblings — Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Céline — under their parent company LVMH (which acquired a minority stake in Anderson’s own label, JW Anderson, just two years ago), you can bet that's changing quickly.Read More
New York photographer Quentin Shih bought counterfeit goods — none costing more than $9 — and schlepped them to the industrial city of Linfen, China, where he spent three weeks shooting them on factory and mine workers. The rich-poor juxtaposition of expensive-looking cheap fakes bought in New York by a Chinese-American and worn by unimpressed Chinese locals makes for a poignant statement on the insidious nature of Western materialism and China's willingness to copy it.
Sometimes designers are forthcoming about their inspirations, sometimes...not. Where not, a newish Tumblr page, Where I See Fashion, offers possible explanations. Bianca Luini, a budding designer based in Milan, casts a net far and wide to match runway collections and magazine editorials with their visuals doubles from the realms of art, design, photography, nature, and so on — confirming that great minds indeed think alike...
Céline fall 2013 + forest with green moss
Dior couture spring 2015 + Burning Off by JERRI FINCH (2011)
Alexander Wang spring 2015 + La Vague (IKB 160 C) by Yves Klein
Alexander McQueen spring 2011 + painting by Michele De Agostini
Iris Van Herpen spring 2012 + old tree bark
Valentino couture spring 2014 + Adam and Eve by Lucas Cranach the Elder (1526)
Dolce & Gabbana fall 2014 + interior of the Duomo di Monreale in Sicily, Italy
Jessica Chastain wearing Olivier Theyskens, by Annie Leibovitz for Vogue (2013) + Flaming June by Fredrick Lord Leighton (1800s)
Raf Simons spring 2015 + Mount Fuji in Clear Weather by Hokusai
Chanel spring 2015 + Swan Lake by Megan Weston
Of course, they all had an adorable baby phase; many of them had a geeky phase; some even pulled out a dashing adolescent phase. Eventually they all did their part to shape fashion as we know it. Here, the fashion set when they were young...
The UK's reigning avant-gardist, Gareth Pugh will return to London Fashion Week for the fall 2015 collections, following a prolonged stint in Paris and a one-off show in New York last season.
He'll also stage a retrospective at Galeria Melissa (43 King St, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8JY), marking his label's ten-year anniversary. We hope the homecoming is every bit as bat-sleeve crazy as our all-time favorite Pugh looks...
The Maasai Cricket Warriors, the only tribal cricket team in Kenya and possibly all of Africa, are not only sensationally stylish, they may be the tribe's future.
Semi-nomadic and cattle-dependent, the Maasai face catastrophic peril on nearly every front. They've experienced the ravages of HIV/AIDS, and the loss of land and livestock to outside threats. Meanwhile, they continue to suffer the entrenched practices of female genital mutilation and child marriage. The villagers' safety, livelihood, and very existence hang in the balance.
So while the cricket players are out to win, they're also on a mission to bring education and equality to the tribe, and restore a sense of unity. If they happen to reach another goal, playing a cricket tournament in England, where the lawn sport was born, then all the better.
A film documenting their noble quest, Warriors will hit film festivals as early as this summer. Here's the trailer...