Whereas most rising models do so on the international runway circuit, Lida Fox — apparently her real name — prefers to use editorials as her springboard. Which isn't to say she avoids the runway; quite the contrary, appearances at Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and Chanel prove she's got the mettle for it. But her face is so insouciant, so tomboyish, so cheeky that it screams for a closer, longer look.
Comparisons have been made to Stella Tennant, as well as a young Madonna, circa brunette, although Lida's style is less pop, more polish. The daughter of a ballerina (her mom) and an opera singer (her dad), the South Carolinian has haute drama in her blood. She herself is a dancer (see her twirling for Saint Laurent in the video below) and has said it was her dancer's posture that landed her a spot in a Marc Jacobs show, her first modeling job. The theme that season was Cabaret, so Marc had the girls at his casting assume a Bob Fosse pose, which Lida did with ease and with Marc's nod.
Not that anyone in fashion will ask Lida about opera or ballet, but if they did, she could probably talk their ear off. She recently told Dossier magazine all about Wagner's The Ring Cycle (the one with Valkyries in helmets), which, she says, "is really a saga of four operas that continue the same story. I’ve never actually seen the entire Ring together, but I’ve seen each of the four operas separately. It’s a fantasy and adventure story with lots of good versus evil themes and very thrilling and bombastic music.”
Even in the 1940s and 50s, a time in modeling not especially synonymous with diversity, Bettina's arched eyebrows and quick smile set her apart. Discovered by Jacques Fath — who threw out her given name, Simone Micheline Bodin, saying she looked more like a Bettina — and courted by the rest of the couturiers, she's most closely associated with Hubert de Givenchy, who named his first postwar collection after her. Paris Match at the time called her "the most photographed French woman in France.”
Bettina enjoyed enormous success posing for the likes of Christian Dior, Madame Grès, Balenciaga, and Balmain, but, not entirely comfortable in front of the camera, she quietly bowed out in 1955. Determined to be a self-made woman, she tried her hand at art direction for Emanuel Ungaro and PR for Valentino. She later married, for a short time, the French photographer Benno Graziani and, following the divorce, took up with the American screenwriter Peter Viertel. Much later, in 1960, she suffered a miscarriage after a car crash in Paris that killed her Pakistani fiancé, Prince Aly Khan. By all accounts, she avoided the public spotlight from that point on.
But, wonderfully, Bettina is still with us. Now 90, she may or may not (probably not) make an appearance at an exhibition in her honor at the Galleria Carla Sozzani during Milan Fashion Week. The show will trace her pioneering career with more than a hundred images signed by some of the greatest photographers of the 20th century: Irving Penn, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Erwin Blumenfeld, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier, Jean Chevalier, Henry Clarke, Gordon Parks, Emile Savitry.
Bettina, Sep 16 - Nov 2, 2014, Galleria Carla Sozzani, 10 Corso Como, 20154, Milan
Remember that controversial, horror-themed Italian Vogue cover a few months ago, the one shot by Steven Meisel that kinda resembled The Shining, with a model who kinda resembled Shelley Duvall? Well, that model is Issa Lish and, like every good scary movie, she's back for more.
Steven Meisel tapped Issa for the fall Coach campaign. And, as she's part Japanese and part Mexican, she was a no-brainer for Balmain's racially diverse campaign, alongside Joan Smalls and Binx Walton. She's also walked in three Jean Paul Gaultier shows, two of them couture, as well as Saint Laurent and Anna Sui. Not bad for a girl who's dad made her work in his sushi restaurant in Mexico City as punishment for bad grades. In fact that's where she was discovered at the age of 15, giving new meaning to quinceañera.
Part Dutch and part Scottish, Saskia de Brauw found modeling fame early, at 16, before dropping out to attend art school in Amsterdam. Now, in her early 30s, she's finding modeling fame again, as well as finding objects on her travels that she transforms into artwork.
The second stop of Saskia's exhibit of found objects, The Accidental Fold, has opened at the National Museum of Scotland (as part of Edinburgh International Fashion Festival). In it, scraps of paper, pieces of plastic, and bits of thread from all corners of the world are given new life — mirroring Saskia's own unusual, willful path.
The Accidental Fold, National Museum of Scotland, through July 26, 2014
If you were Kate Moss's little sister (ok, half-sister), wouldn't you have a go at modeling? Meet Lottie Moss. Earlier this year, the dewy 16-year-old signed with Storm Models, Kate's famed alma mater, and now finds herself the face of one of her big sister's greatest legacies, Calvin Klein Jeans.
In a shrewd move, Calvin Klein Jeans is reviving its halcyon heyday, that of a brooding, muscle-rippling Marky Mark and an alluring, doe-eyed Kate Moss. Remember the duo's billboard domination of 1993? Thus, the label has launched the Re-Issue Project, a capsule of nine denim staples of that era — i.e. the jeans jacket, the short shorts, and the 'boyfriend' jeans worn by Moss in the 90s, as well as "cK" sweatshirts and tees — sold exclusively on Mytheresa from July 15, 2014.
An earlier Calvin Klein classic by at least a decade, Brooke Shields (sans underwear), was immortalized by Richard Avedon, so it makes a good deal of sense that his grandson, Michael Avedon, would photograph Lottie, looking every bit as waifish as her big sis.
Right this minute, male models are zigzagging around Milan and Paris as they rush to castings and fittings in preparation for the men's spring collections, which have already begun in London. But there's one model who's bypassing the arduous process. Because Andrej Pejic, who's walked both men's and women's runways and who prefers the female pronoun, is stepping up her game and headed to the film business.
Reportedly, the andro-genius Australian model-turned-actor has been cast in Sofia Coppola's forthcoming, live-action adaptation of The Little Mermaid, originally written by Hans Christian Andersen in 1837 and brought to the big screen in Disney's animated classic of 1989. The 22-year-old will play Sister #4, which may not sound very exciting, but remember that all five sisters are pivotal characters. Where Disney stuck on a happy ending, the story is quite dark and the sisters are responsible for telling the central mermaid, a mer-princess, the ways of the human world and that she'll never attain immortality, as humans will in heaven.
The film's screenwriter, meanwhile, is Caroline Thompson, whose credits include Tim Burton's The Nightmare Before Christmas, Edward Scissorhands, and The Corpse Bride, as well as The Addams Family — another reason Coppola, already well-versed in stories of existential crises, will likely look to the dark side.
Oh sure, Holly Rose Emery can do runway — easily. But the Kiwi cutie, with her preternaturally expressive eyes and lips like cloud banks, is really more of an editorial girl. In the last couple of months alone, she's scored stories in Numéro, Love, i-D, Jalouse, Vogue Germany, and the nearest Vogue to home, Australia. The 17-year-old, who moved to New York from her native Auckland six months ago, has been described as a cross between two quirky bombshells, Lindsey Wixson and Lara Stone. We couldn't agree more.