Wrong Weather

A Store Is Born: Wrong Weather

Out of a former parking garage with awkward, sloping walls and a strangely protruding mezzanine "resembling origami," the award-winning men's store Wrong Weather opened its doors in Porto, Portugal, a short while back. Curious name for a shop, especially given its sky-blue walls and sky-high ceiling. Be that as it may, the proprietors certainly know their right from wrong, at least when it comes to stocking merch. A highly edited list includes everyone's favorites (available both in-store and online): Comme des Garçons, Dries van Noten, DRKSHDW by Rick Owens, Chris&Tibor, Common Projects, Yohji Yamamoto, and of course an eponymous line of contemporary essentials, not to mention a handsome array of men's grooming prods. And like any concept store, Wrong Weather even has a gallery space to display works by like-minded, equally contrarian artists and photographers. The forecast calls for a visit.

Apr 11, 2011 00:00:00
Carven

A Store Is Born: Carven

Everything about Carven is so deliciously French it's practically pâté. First, a history lesson. Carven was launched in 1945 by Madame Carven Mallet, famous for her jaunty cotton dresses, and became an instant hit. Decades later, the house went through a requisite period of obsolescence. But recently it's been reinvigorated by a new designer, the très, très adorable and charming Guillaume Henry, currently in his third season.

Now comes a new Carven boutique, which opened yesterday at 36 rue Saint Sulpice in the Saint Germain area of Paris. It's the first such retail foray since the rebirth, and it bears all the hallmarks of its lively new personality. Part lived-in apartment, part ambient street corner, the cozy space—designed by Eric Chevallier, also responsible for the visual merchandising at Colette—carries all Carven's insouciant, delectable offerings for spring. It's a little like stepping into a Keith McNally theme bistro, but without the food and actually French.

Mar 30, 2011 00:00:00
Y-3, London

A Store Is Born: Y-3, London

Celebrating its tenth anniversary, Y-3 has finally opened a London flagship, its first standalone space in the UK. The launch party drew a motley mix of Yohji Yamamoto's fashionable fans and Adidas's sports ambassadors, creating a battle of the industries. Besides Yohji himself and Adidas creative director Dirk Schoenberger, guests included retired soccer icon Zinedine Zidane, Tallulah Harlech (Karl Lagerfeld's "adopted Welsh niece" and daughter of Chanel muse Lady Amanda Harlech), The XX, and Rupert Everett, most of whom also scooted over to the after-party at Paramount.

The small shop—squeezed in among a mighty fine selection of designer boutiques, including Yohji's own store—carries the complete Y-3 universe for men and women, as well as the new kids' line. It's just one of the many events in London celebrating Yohji's amazingness, culminating with a major retrospective at the Victoria & Albert museum, showcasing his 40-year body of work.

Y-3, 54 Conduit Street, Mayfair, London

Mar 14, 2011 00:00:00
Colette x Chanel

A Store Is Born: Colette x Chanel

Just in time for Fashion Week, two Parisian institutions have joined forces to create a pop-up store that will run for just a week (March 1-10). Set in a former garage on rue Saint-Honoré, Colette x Chanel is a study in luxurious contrasts: street versus couture, modern versus classic. We’re picturing the Uptown Girl video, but styled by Karl Lagerfeld.

In addition to Chanel’s sumptuous spring collection, the temporary shop will carry a selection of young designers handpicked by the discerning Colette team, as well as one-off goodies, such as Karl Lagerfeld dolls, charms and cameras—for the Kaiser in you. The industrial hub promises to be a flurry of activity, with special performances, we well as appearances by the boutique’s artist friends, who've been enlisted to deface accessories for a few lucky costumers—the ultimate in subversive luxury. 

Mar 01, 2011 00:00:00
Alexander Wang, New York

A Store Is Born: Alexander Wang

Don’t call it a changing of the guard, even though it sure feels like one now that wunderkind Alexander Wang has unveiled his first flagship, transforming Yohji Yamamoto’s former space in the heart of Soho at 103 Grand Street. Grand is the best way to describe Wang’s meteoric rise and ever-expanding empire, which he built on a few slinky tees and a slouchy-cool attitude (the legendary parties didn’t hurt either). Of course, he’s come a long way since then, branching out into menswear, accessories, and a secondary line.

Always one for the unexpected, Wang threw a curveball when it came to his first retail venture, choosing restrained modernism over urban malaise. Tapping interior designer and bestie Ryan Korban, he opted for an all-marble and mirror space, tweaking the codes of eighties retail for a new generation of drooling shoppers. It's slick luxury, but with a few Wang twists, like a fox-fur hammock. Given his fall show this week, another blockbuster, we’re sure it’ll be a task to keep it stocked.

Feb 17, 2011 00:00:00
Vivienne Westwood L.A. store

A Store Is Born: Vivienne Westwood

After a long hiatus, Vivienne Westwood is making her glorious return to American shores, opening a boutique in the heart of Los Angeles (8320 Melrose Avenue). We guess Helena Bonham Carter and her mismatched shoes at the Golden Globes were early brand ambassadors.

The arrival comes nearly ten years after the closing of the iconic New York boutique, during which time Westwood faithful in the States were forced to scour eBay. But that’s all about to change with the new shopping mecca, modeled after Westwood’s palatial London flagship, which mixes the dame’s penchant for baroque-punk and expertly tailored , with a little swashbuckling throw in.

In the sprawling space, eager Angelenos will discover a full selection of the Westwood arsenal, including Red and Gold labels, menswear, accessories, and the ever-popular Anglomania line. Such rich coffers should put to rest the assumption that Westwood is all about mismatched shoes and deconstructed ball gowns. And this is only the beginning of her Stateside reign. Expansion plans include New York, San Francisco, and Miami. Who needs sovereignty when you have nine-inch platform heels, panniers and manifestos?

Feb 15, 2011 00:00:00

A Store Is Born: Ruby

We know helmets save lives, but at what cost? Helmet head is a lot to ask of someone. Still, it's probably worth it if you can wear one designed by Jerome Coste at Les Ateliers Ruby, which just launched a new store in the center of Paris (1 rue Hérold, Paris, 75001). Quirky and slightly retro, the avant-headgear gives us that warm feeling we got when we saw Kristen McMenamy and Karl Lagerfeld standing together at the finale of spring 2011 Chanel couture. Which is apropos, considering the helmets appeared in Lagerfeld's fall 2009 Chanel collection, of course luxed up in all-over fur, tweed and jewels—think Doctor Zhivago meets Barbarella. Other designer collaborations include Junya Watanabe and Jean-Paul Gaultier, but our favorite has to be Maison Martin Margiela for the clever classroom-like doodling.

At the new boutique, designed by Coste, riveted aluminum shelves and furniture give the feeling of being on Mars, or a repair shop from the future. The complete Ruby collection—limited editions and one-of-a-kind pieces, even vintage motorcycles—can be had. You can also customize your own, if fur and doodles don't suit you. Now, if only we could only learn to ride.

Feb 12, 2011 00:00:00
A.P.C. Specials, photo Will Calcutt

A Store Is Born: A.P.C. Specials

French label A.P.C. may not be as American as apple pie, but it’s certainly become a New York staple, charming shoppers with its expertly cut, impeccably tailored Parisian classics. It’s like every Godard fantasy come true. And who can forget the denim? Perfectly fitted, washed, and virtually indestructible.

Now, founder and owner Jean Touitou, one of the original Soho pioneers, is expanding his dominion by adding a store in the West Village, his second in New York, promising a fuller selection of irresistible goodies, as he tells us with his usual candor. "For the new space we are using the science of architecture," he deadpans, "which is how to make a beautiful place out of something shitty. It's as simple as that."

The new space is one of the fabled “Specials” concept stores, which in addition to men’s and women’s collections, carries a wide range of denim, as well as treats such as the Quilt series and a curated selection of House of Waris jewels. As an added bonus, the store will stock a special selection of reissued A.P.C classics for those who missed them the first time around.

Touitou remains equally blunt about upcoming expansions, saying, "The Bleecker Street situation is really inflated. I'm glad I didn't have the money or the will to be on Bleecker. It's unaffordable rent-wise. I was lucky to find this place on a side street. I also took over another place on West 4th and Perry, which should open in May." We’ll be saving our pennies.

In the meantime, A.P.C. Specials is now open at 92 Perry Street (at Bleecker Street), 646-371-9292.

Feb 08, 2011 00:00:00
Pierre Hardy New York

A Store Is Born: Pierre Hardy

At last, shoe designer Pierre Hardy is treading triumphantly on the cobblestones of New York with his first U.S. standalone store in the heart of the West Village (30 Jane Street). Architecturally minded, he envisioned the boutique unfolds as a series of spaces within spaces, including smoked mirrored partitions to create semi-translucent dressing areas. The entire space is finished with Hardy’s exacting modernism, down to concrete pedestals that feature his latest wares. And what wares they are. In addition to the full range of women’s and men’s shoes (including those Velcro sneakers that sell out season after season), the store also offers the ever-expanding range of bags and accessories. In addition, expect a very special treat for New Yorkers, a limited-edition women’s sandal inspired by the Manhattan skyline, perched on a gold platform. Did we mention he's architecturally minded?

Visit Pierre Hardy

Dec 10, 2010 00:00:00

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