Givenchy scarf

Hooked: Givenchy Scarves

Believe it or not, summer scarves have a purpose. They keep bare shoulders warm on cool, breezy nights. Of course, Riccardo Tisci likes to imbue his scarves for Givenchy with another layer of meaning. Following the visual cues of his spring 2014 collection, his new scarves — or foulard — combine sepia-toned scenes of noble African tribeswomen with a Japanese robo-chic element — with a little Crucifixion mixed in for good measure. After all, a signature is a signature.

120 x 120 cm, cotton-silk blend, $530 at Net-a-Porter

Mar 29, 2014 12:19:00
Céline London

A Store Is Born: Céline London

This week Céline opened a flagship in the Mayfair district of London, where, surely no coincidence, creative director Phoebe Philo resides. Bags, shoes and ready-to-wear are given ample room in the minimally designed space, which emphasizes unconventional materials, many of them rare and left raw. The windows in the facade, for example, are framed in dark Iroko wood from Africa, while the interior is divided by walls covered in clear gray Marmorino plaster from Italy. The floor may look like parquet but in fact comprises 6000 marble tiles inlaid with semi-precious stones.

Philo and the Céline team also collaborated with Danish artist FOS — a recent participant in the Venice Biennale, Art Basel, and Frieze Art Fair, where he installed an ice-cream stand — to create several unique pieces: cast-iron door handles, floor lamps and a Calderesque brass chandelier. Banana plants in amorphous terracotta pots round out the vaguely tropical aesthetic.

Céline, 103 Mount Street, London

Mar 24, 2014 13:34:00
Raf Simons for Adidas

Hooked: Raf Simons for Adidas

You might have thought there was only one designer sneaker collab you had to have this spring. But no. For a second time, Raf Simons has teamed up with Adidas on a range of color-exploding eye-catchers.

There are eight unisex versions in up to four colors each, with uppers printed in a pattern from Raf Simons' spring collection. Building from fall '13, the collab also sees a shoe-in-shoe concept, while tweaking classic Adidas styles. The Stan Smith gets a modest revamp, while Simons has gone color-crazy with Super Trekker, Rising Star, Bounce, Formula, Response Trail, and a super slick, Wellies-style boot.

Here's the kicker: not every style has Adidas' three-stripe motif imposed on it — that's when you know you have clout.

$440-$570 at Adidas Originals stores, retailers carrying RAF, and select sneaker specialists.

Mar 21, 2014 18:50:00
Marni Blitz Fussbett

Hooked: Marni Fussbett Sandals

If you're going to cave to chunky earth-mother sandals, do so with these colorful specimens from Marni. The chunky Fussbett sole was launched in 2001 upon a visit to Africa, where designer Consuelo Castiglioni saw sandals constructed from recycled tires and packed with straw. Her versions are made from rubber and cord, added to every spring and fall. This season, she's also released a limited-edition style, the Blitz Fussbett, in sparkling berry and granite. 

$560-1120 at Marni

Mar 17, 2014 19:18:00
Saint Laurent studded sneakers

Hooked: Saint Laurent Studded Sneakers

After the heinous winter most of the world has just suffered through, treat yourself to these Saint Laurent silver-studded slip-on leather sneakers. You can't go wrong with patrimony that's part Paris posh, part L.A. casual. If Hedi Slimane can seek California's snug embrace, so can you. Another option: leopard print!

$795 at Net-a-Porter ($495 for leopard)

Mar 09, 2014 14:39:00
M/M (Paris) for A.P.C.

Money Where Your Mouse Is: M/M (Paris) for A.P.C.

Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag of the cultishly followed French creative agency M/M (Paris) are all about secret messages, the more coded the better. An aversion to the obvious is the calling card of the press-shy duo who, over 22 years, have worked with virtually everyone in the fashion arena, most notably Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci and Nicolas Ghesquière, now of Louis Vuitton. M/M's new T-shirt collaboration with A.P.C. is no exception.

Needless to say, the designs are highly yet delightfully complicated. But it begins simply enough, with a T-shirt called Mister T, in reference to A.P.C. founder and designer Jean Touitou. With its recursive mise en abyme effect, it is also a drawing of a character in the shape of a T-Shirt. Meta much?

M/M also designed 'Jean' and 'Judith' motifs, another reference to Jean Touitou, as well as his wife. A bit of wordplay is at work here, naturally. As dogs are sometimes called toutous in French, the Jean motif resembles little black dogs while spelling out his name. This is in addition to a whole new typeface M/M created for the collaboration — which they do with most of their projects, to get into the right frame of mind. So this spring and summer, why not confound everyone around you with slogan tees that look like anything but?

$110-155 (men's or women's sizing) at A.P.C. stores and online.

Mar 06, 2014 14:14:00
Raf Simons X Fred Perry

Money Where Your Mouse Is: Raf Simons X Fred Perry

Raf Simons has gone graphic for his 9th collaboration with Fred Perry. For spring, Raf Simons X Fred Perry consists of polos, jackets, and light sweaters, each piece exploring color, pattern, and proportion in its own bold way. Combine them for amplified effect.

$160-$550 at Fred Perry stores and online store.

Watch a (very) short video for the collection by Willy Vanderperre...

Feb 24, 2014 12:51:00
Alexander McQueen Mini Heroine satchels

Alexander McQueen's Pure Heroine

Because you can never have enough Heroine bags, Alexander McQueen has unloaded tons more options of its signature accessory for spring. First, the label is launching the Mini Heroine satchel, which boasts all the great craftsmanship of its roomier sister — suede lining, hand stitching, chain and leather strap — but smaller and slightly more economical. Second, the Heroine bag itself is being rolled out in new colors, graphic prints and textures — emulating those of the future-tribal spring collection. It, too, will be available in a mini size, as well as small and medium. As Lorde might say, you may never be royal, but you can have Heroine bags.

$1545-$2595 at Alexander McQueen stores and online (late February - July 2014)

Feb 19, 2014 19:38:00
Prada spring 2014, photo Emma Summerton

Prada's Harlem Renaissance

In 2009, for a new project called The Iconoclasts, Miuccia Prada asked four fashion editors — including Katie Grand and Carine Roitfeld, then at the helm of French Vogue — to 'rethink' Prada stores in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Five years later, the concept will begin anew when, on the night of Prada's fall collection (February 20) during Milan Fashion Week, W magazine fashion director Edward Enninful recasts two Prada stores — women’s and men’s on Monte Napoleone — based on the cultural, literary, and stylistic triumph that was the Harlem Renaissance. Surely there are racial connotations at work here. 

Overlapping with the Roaring Twenties and the Jazz Age, the Harlem Renaissance saw a creative explosion among the African-American community of Harlem in New York City. The waves started there reverberated around the world and launched the careers of, among many artists, musical greats Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, Billie Holiday, and Josephine Baker, who performed in all-inclusive cabarets like the Cotton Club.

Enninful’s vision, an imagined 1920s nightclub, incorporates a cast of black and white mannequins dressed in Prada spring 2014 and archive pieces, posing against a glittering art-deco bar. Similarly, a diorama at the men’s store will showcase black and white mannequins sitting around game tables, also dressed in Prada spring 2014 and archive pieces. The images above, not part of the spring ad campaign, have been newly shot by Emma Summerton.

The Milan installations will remain on view until February 24. Two days later, Enninful’s vision for Prada’s new Saint Petersburg store will be unveiled. We hope to see a reenactment of Stonewall as a less-than-subtle dig at Putin's heinous anti-gay laws.

Feb 19, 2014 22:00:00

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