Though he's originally from Fresno, Rick Owens spent much of his misspent youth in L.A. How apropos that he's just opened his first store there, just down the street from, he says, "a Mexican drag bar where I spent a lot of late, boozy nights 20 years ago."
More than anything, he wanted the space to reflect his twisted view of Hollywood — a kind of brutalist Cecil B. Demille — which he achieved with the help of longtime architect Anna Tumaini. Together they installed a large-scale fog machine, the kind he has in his New York and Seoul stores. And they even incorporated what he calls a swimming pool (pools are big in the movies, right?), but which is more akin to a floor-to-ceiling tank in which bubbles, one at a time, rise to the surface.
What do you get when you mix buffalo bone, bull leather, silver, bronze, and an eye for Brutalism? You get Rick Owens' studded and stacked cuff bracelet, new for fall. But if this hunk of wrist art is a little too intense for you, Rick also made simpler versions with only leather or leather and bronze.
$3,674 at Rick Owens
It's unclear what kind of netting this calfskin Céline bag for fall refers to: fishing, tennis, www. No matter, really, because the bundle of intertwined ecru flowers is a bigger head-scratcher. Together they make one of the more surreal creations to pop out of Phoebe Philo's ever-moving imagination, far removed from the minimalist hobos and wearable vest-bags she also showed in the collection. While reminiscent of trendy fringe, the net in fact appears to be a new thing — and the shape of things to come, as usual.
$3,600 at Céline
This pool floatie of a jacket from London designer Christopher Raeburn bridges concept and comfort. Not only does it bring back memories of childhood buoyancy, but it's surprisingly warm and super lightweight, too, as it's made of little more than latex and air. The hoodie alone could double as a cushion. Plus, the blow valves are exposed for easy re-inflation.
Fellow straphangers on the subway won't take kindly to the jacket, but if even they spitefully poke a hole in the latex, worry not, for it even comes with a puncture repair kit.
£949 at Christopher Raeburn
Who needs sensual glamour when there's sculptural innovation? That's the thinking behind the French label Côte & Ciel, who, although they're known primarily for their architectural backpacks, create a wide range of eccentric, unisex bags.
The team takes a science-is-sexy approach, tapping into the harmony of forces at work between the wearer and the weight carried, but without crossing over into high-tech sporting territory. And lately, Côte & Ciel has been focusing on clever sleeves for mobile devices — no great surprise for having formerly worked on Apple accessories — rounding out a progressive vision of the modern schlepper.
Available online at Côte & Ciel, as well as 10 Corso Como, Dover Street Market London, and Selfridges
Rick Owens has opened an expansive store in Hong Kong — his largest in Asia, made in collaboration with Joyce Boutique — and it's a reminder of his peculiar self-idolatry. Inside the three-story space — which stocks his complete men's and women's collections, as well as his DRKSHDW second line — sits a vérité statue of himself. On hands and knees, the piece serves as a coffee table, literally, complete with Owens' own coffee-table book, the gargantuan Rizzoli publication from a few years ago.
Designers often use the self as muse, but Owens takes the notion to a bizarre and bizarrely captivating new level. Consider his giant outdoor sculpture for Selfridges last year (putting the self in Selfridges) or his urinating statue at Pitti Uomo in Florence in 2006 (putting the pee in Pitti). He's long said he doesn't believe in muses; unless, apparently, the muse is meta.
Rick Owens, 18 On Lan Street, Hong KongRead More
While it didn't get wood first, Prada is joining the action now with Prada Raw, a limited collection of women's sunglasses made entirely from black walnut or Malabar ebony. The curious eyewear marries classic design — including the house's Minimal Baroque style — with the calming effect of natural wood.
Beginning today, available exclusively at Prada stores in New York (5th Ave), Milan (Galleria), Paris (Faubourg St-Honoré), and London (Old Bond St)
Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty exhibit opens tomorrow at the V&A in London and even those scatterbrained souls who forgot to reserve a ticket can get in on the action with these extraordinary silk scarves. Each of the five prints refers to a landmark piece from the archives, such as the armadillo shoes from the Plato's Atlantis collection (spring 2010), the tulle and black lace peacock dress (fall 2008), and the dramatic number from spring 1999 that saw Shalom Harlow spray-painted by robotic arms.
52.7 sq. inches, $595 each at Alexander McQueen (4-5 Old Bond Street, London) and online
With all the crotch-watching at Rick Owens' men's show last week, the shoes may have gone unnoticed. And what nice, restrained statement shoes they were, the designer's latest collaboration with Adidas.
The new generation of his signature Runners sneakers — a kind of haute-caveman hybrid — sees several new models in stretch suede: a high boot, an ankle boot, and the reintroduction of the original in fur. All styles are available in women's or men's sizing, and in black or various shades of brown.
$790 - $1,435 at Adidas concept shops in mid-July 2015 and Rick Owens stores