Jonathan Anderson's debut collection for the Spanish house of Loewe draws on many of the primal impulses that inform the London designer's own line, JW Anderson. For resort 2015, he's introduced Meccano, a series of colorful, oversized safety-pin brooches that seem to reference punk's glory days. Or Calder mobiles. Or Ritz crackers. Actually, none of the above. Made of various metals and calf-leather cutouts, they take after the curlicues in Loewe's new logo — designed by the creative agency M/M Paris — that evokes the label's original branding iron used to mark its cattle.
$120 - $222 at Loewe stores
Alexander Wang is ushering in a whole new era at Balenciaga, and with it, a revamped website. Made in collaboration with Yoox, the new site is "nimble, intuitive and visually elegant," says the company, "a dynamic hub for e-commerce and communication."
The navigation is indeed satisfyingly nimble, plus pictures are bigger and easier on the eyes. It's the online store, though, that appears to have seen the most revamping. Chiefly, the site is now compatible with all devices. WIth more and more people buying high-end etail (no 'r') straight from their smartphone or tablet, that's a no-brainer. And there are nice smaller tweaks, too. For instance, the user can rotate the models — both men's and women's — for a complete 360-degree view of what they're wearing. Simple, clean stuff — so clean that there isn't a Kardashian in sight.
As they say in the millinery business, not only is there a hat for every occasion, there's an occasion for every hat. Which is sort of like saying every day can be a hat day. Good thing that the UK milliner Philip Treacy makes tons of hats to choose from every season (plus this one that looks more like a black veil). That's right, in addition to supplying hats for the stage, hats for royal weddings, hats for traveling exhibitions, he'll also make hats for regular customers with regular occasions, even if the occasion is walking down the street. Behold his fall 2014 collection...
The skinny-heel pushback is well underway. The latest evidence comes from Acne Studios, whose plus-size women's Quad shoe for fall takes the best of the traditional oxford and adds an enlarged cube toe, as well as a chunky sole, for beautiful-the-way-I-am appeal. Available in white on white, black on white, and brown camo on black.
$600 at Acne Studios stores and acnestudios.com
The original Dover Street Market in London has reached its first decade — or it will on September 10 — and what a glorious ten years it's been. Judging from the swirl of launches, limited editions, and special events surrounding the tenth anniversary, Rei Kawakubo — and, by extension, her Comme des Garçons label — couldn't be happier.
In fact, on the topic of happy, Pharrell Williams has launched his new scent GIRL to coincide with the festivities, marking the occasion with a special colored box. Additionally, spaces have been constructed for Louis Vuitton's fall collection — the first by its new creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière — and for Nike Lab, including its sneaker collaboration with DSM.
Designers and friends of DSM have also created commemorative pieces, such as Simone Rocha’s pointed silver shoes, Stella McCartney's kids items, and Phoebe English’s T-shirts. Souvenir items either designed or chosen by Kawakubo — flip flops, mugs, tote bags — have been given their own stalls, while the whole store is clad in a poster installation emblazoned with quotes from Kawakubo herself.
But, in typically contrarian Comme style, the house would now like to divert your attention from its first ten years and focus on the next ten years. To that end, Kawakubo has compiled a list of future-oriented books and films for you to consume as you adopt DSM not only as a retail destination, but a life philosophy. In other words, it's pretty much mandatory.
Rick Owens doesn't do anything by dribs and drabs. So his Selfridges takeover isn't schlocky window dressing, but a storewide installation anchored by a massive, imposing monument to himself — a 25-foot, 1.5-ton sculpture of his toned torso. Created by artist and house collaborator Doug Jennings, the fiberglass statue — which took 20 members of Hot House construction crew 12 weeks to build — holds up a torch that will glow 12 hours a day and burst with flame each quarter hour. A takeover celebrating 20 years since his first collection demands nothing less than Selfridges' most exhaustive designer focus to date.
Additionally, Owens has created a series of conceptual exhibits in four key windows. Three of the four windows are inspired by Owens’ favorite opera, Salomé, with music by Richard Strauss and words by Oscar Wilde. “[Salomé] is a ridiculously lurid biblical story about obsession with beautiful purity and the drive to destroy it," says Owens. "Depravity and elegance is one of my favorite combos.” The fourth window features an 'impossible' staircase made of black wood appearing to descend to Selfridges' Concept Store, where an immersive curation of items — furniture, tableware, books, albums (Jayne County's autobiography!) — shed light on Owens' creative universe.
Finally, Owens has designed a limited-edition, 20-piece collection under his DRKSHDW label. The collection includes trans-seasonal, mostly unisex styles emblematic of his aesthetic, including the crinkled leather jacket, tunics, and do-rags. The collection will be available in various Selfridges locations.
Hedi Slimane's unlikely love affair with Los Angeles shows no signs of cooling off. Not only did he relocate Saint Laurent's atelier to Tinseltown — a major move, to say the least — upon becoming creative director of the French house last year, now he's opening the brand's largest women's store on Rodeo Drive, smack in the middle of Beverly Hills. This effectively snatches the title of global flagship from Paris.
The three-level, 10,000-square-foot space will launch in September, according to WSJ magazine, with the top floor dedicated to VIPs and, perhaps more importantly, their stylish progeny — this is Hollywood, after all. There's going to be a secret back entrance and everything. The news comes on the heels of financial reports suggesting Saint Laurent has become very profitable for parent company Kering (formerly PPR), perhaps its most profitable label. It would seem Slimane's reboot has found traction.
Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy — who told Hint a while back he aspires to make clothes for those born after 1991, the year the USSR formally ended — does not fit neatly into a box. His design sensibility is challenging not for the usual reasons (deconstruction, asymmetry, tech fabrics), but because it plays with notions of dated, obsolete, tacky glamour often associated with oligarch wives — in the way Prada refers to Germany's Stasi style.
Take these jackets, for example, the clear standouts in a collection otherwise full of skater prints and street influences. Their nubby faux-fur fadedness is undeniable, owing to the fact they're made of 100% polyester, an intentionally down-market decision. They look faux for other reasons, too. Although they're unisex, they're sized in US men's designations and made in Romania, not exactly a style hotbed or important manufacturing center.
$570 - $730 at Opening Ceremony
Except for a short gap between 2011 and 2013, Raf Simons has been going at it for Fred Perry, tweaking the sporty label's signatures to his own off-kilter ends. Fall 2014 is their 10th collection, a study in artful patch and pocket placement, Haçienda-inspired diagonal stripes (made famous by Peter Saville), and color-blocked knits.
One of the more statement pieces is the diamond-quilted Raf bomber in green, applied with patches of diagonal striped fabric. Other key pieces include the optical-stripe Raf shirt, the two-button Raf sweat, and the lace-knit Raf sweater — in autumnal shades of royal purple, burgundy, pine green, navy, and Halloween orange.
$160 - $495 in Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and Fred Perry