Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy — who told Hint a while back he aspires to make clothes for those born after 1991, the year the USSR formally ended — does not fit neatly into a box. His design sensibility is challenging not for the usual reasons (deconstruction, asymmetry, tech fabrics), but because it plays with notions of dated, obsolete, tacky glamour often associated with oligarch wives — in the way Prada refers to Germany's Stasi style.
Take these jackets, for example, the clear standouts in a collection otherwise full of skater prints and street influences. Their nubby faux-fur fadedness is undeniable, owing to the fact they're made of 100% polyester, an intentionally down-market decision. They look faux for other reasons, too. Although they're unisex, they're sized in US men's designations and made in Romania, not exactly a style hotbed or important manufacturing center.
$570 - $730 at Opening Ceremony
Except for a short gap between 2011 and 2013, Raf Simons has been going at it for Fred Perry, tweaking the sporty label's signatures to his own off-kilter ends. Fall 2014 is their 10th collection, a study in artful patch and pocket placement, Haçienda-inspired diagonal stripes (made famous by Peter Saville), and color-blocked knits.
One of the more statement pieces is the diamond-quilted Raf bomber in green, applied with patches of diagonal striped fabric. Other key pieces include the optical-stripe Raf shirt, the two-button Raf sweat, and the lace-knit Raf sweater — in autumnal shades of royal purple, burgundy, pine green, navy, and Halloween orange.
$160 - $495 in Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and Fred Perry
You know a new season is here, or almost here, when Proenza Schouler's new stock arrives in its e-store. A ton of new fall arrivals just went up on the site, in all their building insulation glory. So while it may sound icky and prickly now, in the summer heat, just wait until the colder months — by October, you'll be begging for some thermal foam on your body. And remember, the boys make their fabrics from scratch, so while it looks like insulation, it is not technically insulation. Concept over trends.
Also on the site, you can catch up with all the cute street posters the duo have made to promote their stores, which, with the addition of the brand-new Soho location, totals two.
Shop Proenza Schouler or select from below...
In the great tradition of the namesake designer, Sarah Burton continues to pay homage to society's damned and discarded in her Alexander McQueen collections. For men's fall 2014, she looked to the British photographer John Deakin for historical inspiration. Before dying broke and all but forgotten in 1972, Deakin regularly took photos of Lucian Freud's strange coterie, which the modern master often used to paint his lumpy, languid nudes.
As gold outlines, these works of modern art live on in the house's fall 14 offerings, as do a striking portrait of the poet Oliver Bernard on the front of a white shirt — pictured with the same collar as the shirt itself — and a self-portrait of Deakin splashed across the entirety of a tux-topcoat hybrid.
Shop Alexander McQueen men's pre-fall or select from below...
London accessories designer Anya Hindmarch has made a killing from her clever clutches that riff off consumer-pop themes — smiley faces, bags of chips and, most famously, Tony the Tiger, of children's cereal fame. She's selling these wily wares, along with her regular fine leather goods for fall, in Mini-Mart, a shop-in-her-own-shop in Mayfair. Lasting three months, Mini-Mart will also serve 99 flavors of ice cream because, well, the address is 99 Mount Street — and nothing screams pop like ice cream.
Opening Ceremony just keeps opening. The sprawling chain's latest outpost sits in the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch, London, designed by Max Lamb. The British interior designer employed Dadaistic elements like stone tables that are not stone, but foam, and a cocoon-like white latex curtain that ripples all around the store, doing away with right angles. The racks, too, are not what they seem. One continuous blue rack curves around the space, inspired by — and made in the same factory as — the blue handrails of the Victoria Line tube.
Mixed with international labels marqueed by Raf Simons, local brands include Faustine Steinmetz, Helen Lawrence and Marques'Almeda, and Nicomede Talavera.
Opening Ceremony Shoreditch, 106 Shoreditch High Street, London
Whether named after the editor-in-chief of French Vogue or the sexually adventurous fictional character of 1970s French cinema, Saint Laurent's Emmanuelle bag aims to please. New for pre-fall and available in leather or croc, the bag features a roomy bucket shape that can accommodate nearly any apparatus while the optional suede fringe shimmies and teases.
$1990 - $2150 at YSL.com and Saint Laurent Boutiques
As if that weren't enough titillating sneaker news, DSM NY will also unveil Sacai's furry new collab with Vans on July 19. Sacai designer Chitose Abe, Hint readers will recall, is a former protege of Rei Kawakubo who now also shows in Paris...
The ongoing Raf Simons for Adidas shoe collaboration seems to be picking up speed. For spring 2015, Simons' beloved staples for the brand — Response Trail 2, Ozweego 2, Bounce — are expanded with new hues and fabrics; his color experiments on the Stan Smith are pushed further; he's introduced two raver models, the Platform Strap and the Platform Lace, that illuminate with each step; and he's interpreted the cult-adored Adilette with three extreme new versions with elevated platforms. All the racy new kicks, priced from $195 to $1,120, can be found at Adidas Icon stores in London, Paris, Berlin and select boutiques around the world beginning mid-February.
In other Raf Simons news, his fall 14 men's collection, made in partnership with the artist and longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby, is getting its own e-store. Open only for the summer, Inthenameof.be will close September 1. After that, a clubby pop-up will launch at 16 Lange Gasthuisstraat, Antwerp, open only on weekends and rotating its merch each week through the end date of October 13.