The Art of Parties
Photos by Patrick McMullan

Hedi Slimane

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Hedi Slimane has a new photo exhibit, Perfect Stranger, at Galerie Almine Rech in Paris. Dean Mayo Davies caught up with the designer-photographer-philosopher-groupie—who defined the millennial zeitgeist for so many—to discuss his snappy ways, his post-Dior days and how the journey must, and will, continue. You heard it here first...

What's the concept of the new show? What can we expect?
It started with a commission from a Spanish contemporary art museum called MUSAC, together with indie-rock festival Benicàssim, which I documented extensively this year.

And the title, Perfect Stranger?
The recognition of a total stranger in a crowd—like a déjà vu, a movie close-up or the description of a character in a novel. I've spent my life documenting perfect strangers. It is also about the construction of an icon, the making of faith and the illusion of community—therefore, the illusion of the live performance and its promises.

Hedi Slimane

Is curating a solo show more challenging than a group show, such as Sweet Bird of Youth?
I am not really into group shows, I have to say. I only did them because they were kindly proposed. They are only interesting to me when it is a full commission of new works, which is difficult to achieve, and there is the same level of commitment and consistency among the artists. Solo shows are more straight-forward. I can keep working on them until the last minute without any kind of personal issue.

Your clothes may have gone, but your ideology remains, perhaps even stronger now, without the hedonistic transience of the fashion cycle. Would you agree? Do you feel liberated in that way?
Yes, I agree with that. And that is precisely what I was trying to express for the past ten years, really. It is always about describing the same energy and idea, what you call an ideology, through any possible creative field. Fashion is one of them, but not the only one. Therefore, I don’t think there is any kind of rupture at all, just the reconfiguration of a system. Besides, there is now a distance, and maybe to others things can be seen with perspective.

Hedi SlimaneHedi Slimane
How do you wish your work at Dior to be understood?
I don’t really know, that may be presumptuous to do. The thing about those last years is that any kind of exploration was done from the inside, with full commitment, in the most organic way, no matter what it took. Until now, it appears that I have been defining my commitments little by little, tempted by this idea of "intentionality." On the other hand, I have always left things to happen intuitively, within something like a strong faith, beliefs and fatalism.

In a way, the generation you helped recognize is left without a champion. How do you feel about that?
I totally trust they are creatively aware and fully committed. It is the most exciting thing for me. I also trust they know better, already defining the rules. The fact that other generations are glued to their chairs and resisting is irrelevant. It’s going to happen.

Hedi SlimaneHedi Slimane
You’ve been photographing from a young age and you’ve built up a considerable archive. Are you a nostalgic person, or do you fight against it?
I fight against it. Suddenly, and for many reasons, I had to look past my pause in fashion, which I never did before, and look at my photographic archives, which made me feel melancholic. The archives are people I loved, kids I photographed, musicians I worked with and followed through their emerging years. Now I have a 20-year archive of photographs and millions of portraits and stories. It feels overwhelming sometimes.

This year has been another prolific one for you. Are you irritated by idleness?
It has been a really interesting year, in which I made a clear decision to protect my desire to make things, without getting trapped in conventions. I wanted to get beyond speculation, as well as dodgy political and personal agendas. I wanted to stay free of my choices and stop everything for a while. My photographic projects were postponed during my days in fashion, when time was an issue. Eventually, the end of the Dior Homme project had no consequence at all on what I am doing. I stayed on track no matter what.

What other projects do you have coming up that you can tell Hint about?
I have a couple of other shows coming up, one in Tokyo in early February at Koyanagi gallery, which will be a pleasant moment for me. I really love Japan, and I haven’t been for a while. I also have this museum show coming up in Spain and two books to be published.

Hedi SlimaneHedi Slimane
Music is a central part of your universe. What bands are you into at the moment? Have you ever thought about setting up a record label?
Well, this is a good question. I find bands that other people signed, and that is okay for me. But doing the creative direction of a new label could be interesting, although it is a full-time job and I’m not sure I want to give up anything else for it. As for bands, there are a couple of interesting ones. I’m still totally behind These New Puritans, who did my last show and were partly on my team at Dior. I also like very much the singer of Answering Machine and a young British band called The Metros.

Finally, I have to ask, will you ever return to fashion? Will you make clothes again?
Yes, totally, I assume in 2008. I don't want it to consume my life, but I would miss not doing it, especially the fabrics and the atelier. It is part of my life, and collections keep running through my head. It simply has to be the right project.

Perfect Stranger, November 28 - January 5, Galerie Almine Rech, 19 rue de Saintonge, Paris 75003

Performa, Francesco Vezzoli, Casey Spooner
NOVEMBER 2-4, 2007
A performance evaluation by Haidee Findlay-Levin...

I have always been a big fan of performance art, so I was thrilled to hear that the second Performa biennial was in town. Through November 20, more than 90 artists—both established and emerging—will appear at numerous institutions. Organized by performance-art guru Roselee Goldberg, Performa 07 includes not only a slew of shows and art events, but also panel discussions, online streaming and, of course, late-night get-togethers at various bars.

Ten commissioned works are the cornerstone of the biennial, including an ambitious project by Italian provocateur Francesco Vezzoli, whose one-night restaging of Luigi Pirandello's 1917 play Right You Are (If You Think You Are) kicked off the festival in the rotunda of the Guggenheim. I had never seen the museum quite so packed, and I soon realized why. Besides Vezzoli's cult following (remember his well-publicized Caligula film piece at the Whitney?), Hollywood celebs and fashion stars turned out in droves, with Vezzoli himself sitting front-and-center with Miuccia Prada. Looming high were larger-than-life projections of Natalie Portman, Peter Sarsgaard, Ellen Burstyn and Dianne Wiest performing from the script.

The play was in three acts, throughout which Cate Blanchett sat still with her back to the audience, until her entrance at the very end—a moment worth waiting for. She silently stood up, left the viewing room and walked past the Richard Prince retrospective to the bottom of the spiraling rotunda, where, closing the play, she gave a short but stunning script-free monologue.

My next involvement with Performa was more personal. I ran into artist and blockmate, Christian Jankowski, whose rooftop performance, The Hula Hoopers, was to take place Saturday morning. Christian was scouting rooftops in the area on which his 27 hula hoopers could perform. I obliged, leading him up to my "no access" roof to see if it was, in fact, accessible. Success. So at 10:00 am on Saturday, I met my friend Benjamin Liu (I knew Benjamin would be just as enthusiastic about hula hoops, even at this early, cold and windy hour) and we made our way to Christian's to see the show. The first "hooper" appeared on a distant rooftop and began her rhythmic hooping. Within moments another girl appeared directly in front of us, followed by another and another, all hooping at a synchronized pace. Soon it was like spotting Waldo as we took in the 360-degree view of rooftops from as far as Allen Street. We laughed when we saw an imposter hooper in a courtyard below. It was all so delightful to watch, and such a great example of the transient yet powerful nature of performance.

Earlier in the weekend, as an antidote to all the fashion events of the previous week, I headed to The Wooster Group's experimental production of Hamlet, its first stab at Shakespeare. The highly original staging and a huge video projection of Richard Burton (the definitive Hamlet) formed the backdrop, and reminded us that no performance of Hamlet (performed here by Scott Shepard), no matter how modern, exists on its own without the context of performances past. Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner, meanwhile, played not only Laertes, but Rosencrantz and Guildenstern as well.

Sunday night was the last of five Morrissey concerts at the Hammerstein Ballroom—and it didn't disappoint. The crooner's renditions of classic Smiths songs and his more recent solo hits, accompanied by his suave maneuverings around the stage, were flawless. His voice and lyrics were as distinctive and clear as ever. At concert's end, as I emerged from my escape into nostalgia, my only regret was not being there (like so many others) for the preceding four shows.

Although scarred by the childhood costumes my mother created for me (corn on the cob—this is no lie!), I attempted a little Halloween performance of my own. A friend and I wondered what it would be like to be famous for a night, so we decked ourselves out as the Olsens. We had long dirty-blonde wigs expertly cut by a hairstylist friend, complete with applied visible roots, and raided my closet for oversized clothes—a fur chubby for "Ashley" and over-oversized matching glasses. We grabbed our large Venti Starbucks cups and took our practiced pouts and slouches onto the crazy costumed streets of New York. First we hit the V party at The Gramercy, then The Bowery, and no one, not ever our friends, recognized our true identities. Fame, at last!

—Haidee Findlay-Levin

Fashion Group, Jean Paul Gaultier

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007
Haidee Findlay-Levin wishes for more rule-breaking...

No such person was on the guest list, fortunately, but had there been a fashion terrorist in New York this week, she could have chosen any number of parties to drop a bomb and wipe out a wide swath of the fashion world, none more so than the Fashion Group International's Night of Stars. Despite the lengthy black-tie ceremony to give out its Rule Breakers awards, the FGI—in its 24th year—still seems to have excellent taste in identifying fashion’s real talents and innovators, those designers who take risks and move fashion forward, particularly this year.

Upon arriving, the awards gala felt more like a class reunion, full of friends of fashion and the fashion of friends. In addition to the honorees, many of the usual suspects of the last few nights were there, as well as a crew of younger designers like Richard Chai and Phillip Lim. I first met up with my dearest friend Hussein Chalayan and Melih Yoru, who, besides celebrating their 4th anniversary together (maintaining a long-term relationship in fashion warrants an award in itself), were in town to receive an award the following night, too. They were accompanied by Husseins's publicist, Libby Haan of Karla Otto, who looked smashing in one of Hussein's coat dresses. I noticed that Andre Leon Talley, there to receive a Fashion Oracle award, was also wearing a coat dress, which looked more graduation gown than anything else. I secretly hoped Hussein had one of his remote controls handy and would switch it into something else. Soon, Hussein, one of fashion's true masters of innovation (and looking super slick and chic in his Martin Margiela suit) was whisked away to receive a gift from one of the sponsors, an Ebel watch I believe.

One of the headliners, Jean-Paul Gaultier showed up to receive the Superstar award (someone please tell them that their award titles need updating), accompanied by the gorgeous British Columbian model Coco Rocha and none other than Lauren Bacall. Iconic, too, was the ever-stylish Tilda Swinton. There to present an award to Alber Elbaz, she looked stunning and simply elegant in a long silk sheath of a gown, Lanvin certainly. (Please let's all remember that “simple” is the expected, yet often forgotten, complement to the word “elegant.") Linda Evangelista, who was also seen at a Lanvin party the previous night, wore an exquisite belted black sequin dress.

I can only hope more celebrities and socialites would break convention and choose (or have their stylists choose) a dress from Lanvin, Hussein Chalayan or Rick Owens. Fishtails, bustiers and hourglass creations are absurdly outdated. I would love to see a light-as-air Lanvin gown billowing down a red carper instead of just the runway, or see one of Hussein's creations transform and blush as the wearer received her award. That would be worth more than any statue.

—Haidee Findlay-Levin

Fendi, China

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2007
We asked Cyril Duval (aka item idem, a French conceptual artist living in Tokyo), to give us a diary-style report of Fendi's unprecedented fashion show—the second part to its spring collection last month in Milan—on the Great Wall of China...

I knew my second visit to the Great Wall of China would be totally different from the first one, and indeed it was, considering the magnitude of the event. After all, a large-scale, $10 million LVMH project in an emerging superpower would be all about showing off, and isn't that exactly what we love about fashion? Invited by music man Michel Gaubert, my great friend and collaborator (Karl Lagerfeld once took our portrait, making us out to be boxers), and knowing my good friend and artist Terence Koh would be there, I had no doubt it was going to be a trip like no other.

Arriving at the Grand Hyatt Beijing—where all guests (international press, Chinese VVIP's, New York socialites and various other jetsetters) were to stay for four days—was the first moment of awe. A human-sized, F-shaped sculpture was installed right in front of the entrance, which itself had been redesigned, making good use of the illustrious yellow and black double-F monogram. The result was a kind of Fendi Hotel, to the point one might think the whole country had been redesigned as the People's Republic of Fendi. Thank you, Mr. Arnault.

Friday saw an entire fleet of cars drive to the Great Wall to witness the unique fashion intrusion on China's most famous landmark. A cocktail reception beneath the marble archways of the Cloud Platform, built centuries ago during the Ming Dynasty, was only a hint at things to come. And as the press release emphasized, a lot of records were broken. Not only was it the first show atop the structure, but it was also the the longest runway ever, at 200 meters, along which 88 models walked (8 is a lucky number in China, a sign of infinite prosperity—here doubled by Karl).

The spectacle was indeed spectacular, with, as Michel told me earlier, "a lunar effect." Was it Karl's intention to transform the longest catwalk ever into some kind of mystical ceremony, playing off the idea that the Great Wall is the only human construction that can be observed from space?

As I expected from Michel, the sound design was original and a little challenging, ranging from Stravinsky and Scarlatti to the Love Boat theme song and Karl's favorite tune, Cervantes by Kreidler. Michel said he basically tried to do a musical translation of 20s-style chinoiserie. For fun, he wanted to use Pink Floyd's The Wall, but stopped short. Interestingly, the Chinese government had to authorize the tracks in early October, so Michel sent them all 700 possibilities, none of which were refused. In the end, the final track list was the perfect accompaniment to the long and lean Chinese beauties on the runway—sometimes with Caucasian girls mixed in—who walked with such majesty, particularly a pair of twins.

The show ended with an explosion of lights and white fireworks until, to a standing ovation by a thrilled audience draped in furs, the final bow by the maestro himself and Silvia Fendi, responsible for the house's famed accessories. Fendi had just made history. Ask Kate Bosworth, her model beau James Rousseau, actresses Ziyi Zhang and Patty Ho, Nigo, former footballer Hidetoshi Nakata or Miss Universe Riyo Mori of Japan if they think any differently.

After the exhilarating moment, I decided to avoid the armada of journalists and fashionistas trying to crack the backstage citadel and went straight to the dinner portion of the evening, which took place at a new and unfinished shopping complex called the Village in the popular nightlife area known as Sanlitun. Terence stayed and later regaled me with the great fun he had meeting Karl and how they ended up talking for hours about their mutual passion for rings and jewels. In particular, he said the Kaiser was very enthusiastic about Terence's right wrist, with its many Chanel watches, comparing the mass of gold to the way Ndebele tribeswomen of South Africa wear piles of necklaces. And Terence, formerly known as asianpunkboy, responded in that reverential off-color way of his that he was born a Nigga Supa Woman.

Now on to the after-party. Amazing? Most of it was, especially wall-climbing dancers, but at times it felt more like an onslaught of cliches, from projected images of Italian classicism and Fellini's La Dolce Vita to scenes meant to evoke The Long March, which led to Mao Zedong's rise to power (remember, he's still officially venerated in China). The message that the Chinese, increasingly rich, should indulge in all things Fendi came through loud and clear.

The next day, while Terence headed to the contemporary art district known as 798 to meet a gallerist, I took Michel Gaubert and his crew of Noise Boys out with me. We went to the Military Museum, so big it could be the Louvre Museum of Weaponry, where we took pictures of yours truly in front of an authentic and perhaps armed Chinese nuclear missile while wearing a Munch mask (The Scream) I had brought from Tokyo .

The last event of the trip was a "rexclusive" dinner at the gallery of Korean art dealer Pearl Lam (not to be confused with the band, which I did at first). I sat between the fun, not to mention beautiful, jewelry designer Zani Gugelmann, who helped me polish off a bottle of dear Pearl's private-reserve tequila, and the very charming and clever Bettina Zilkha, who asked all about my upcoming "very last first solo show ever" called DISPLAYSTHETICS. We all then jumped in our Mercedes, boogied a little and dove into our beds. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Purple Magazine

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2007
     How better to end a colorful fashion week than with a Purple party? Hosted by the mag's chief Olivier Zahm, and co-hosted and/or DJ'd by Waris Ahluwalia, Chloe Sevigny and Benjamin Cho, the cozy shindig at Beatrice Inn brought out a spectrum of Purple fans, ranging from shrinking violets (an Olsen) to the ultra violet (Agyness Deyn, sun-kissed and cheery). Meanwhile, Madonna, caught buying a "Purple Penetrator" dildo just last week, was not one of them.
     Other bold-facers: Malcolm McLaren, Ellen von Unwerth, Michael Stipe, Waris' squeeze Chiara Clemente (who tells us she's almost done editing her first full-length documentary, on female artists), Sue Stemp, Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, designer and Karen O's stylist Christian Joy, Resurrection owner Mark Haddawy and Cory Kennedy, a party girl whose self-promotion skills rival those of the Sex Pistols mastermind himself.
     "Stand back" moment: Mary-Kate Olsen let loose enough to wag her tail on the dance floor to a Stevie Nicks ditty, though not enough to allow any snaps to be taken.
     Take-away of the night: Malcolm McLaren is obsessed with the electronic sounds of computer games. When not at work putting together a kid's line called Fashion Beast, he samples, loops and shares the beeps and whistles with younger web friends (not in the creepy way).

Bistrotheque Drag Ball

THURSDAY, AUGUST 16, 2007

Chics, style geeks and superfreaks gathered at Shoreditch Town Hall in London’s East End for the second annual Bistrotheque Drag Ball (or B.A.D. Ball 2, as it was suggestively dubbed), thanks to Bistrotheque's Pablo Flack and David Waddington. A la Paris Is Burning, "houses"—House of Fierce Nest, House of Dubois, House of Egypt, House of BoomBox—showed off their catwalk struts, with a panel of judges awarding points, hollers, claps and whistles to those who worked their look, aura and glamma.

As one would expect, all possible combinations of glitter, gaffer tape, ghetto gold, white face paint, postbox-red lipstick, veils and Olympic-wear (gearing up for 2012!) charged down the runway. Jonny Woo served as the evening's host(ess) with the most(ess), while also keeping collisions to a minimum—quite a feat considering some of the categories: Celebrity Community Service, 'Polo and Pearls' International Young Royals and Banjii Cunt.

So how does a judge even begin to compare these femmes when each is her own work of art? Giving it their best shot were fashion writer, broadcaster and presenter of The Clothes Show, Caryn Franklin, Yasmin Sewell of Browns, Dazed & Confused creative director Nicola Formichetti, designer and DJ Hazel Robinson, Mulberry's creative director (until January) Stuart Vevers, Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East, i-D fashion editor Francesca Burns, Henry (House of) Holland, British Vogue’s Harriet Quick and the incomparable make-up mistress Pat McGrath.

The social show surrounding the runway show was almost as entertaining. Among a front row that included Joe McKenna and gallerist Maureen Pailey, Fran Burns worked black-patent fetish heels so vertiginous they made Balenciaga kicks look like training shoes. In a Swarovski crystal-encrusted House of Holland dress (that read: WHO NEEDS A HUSBAND I'VE GOT HOUSE OF HOLLAND), she was accessorized much of the evening by Holland himself, dapper in a gray vest and tie-dyed tee. Monochromatic sartorial wunderkind Gareth Pugh made his entrance with P.i.X music zine editor Hanna Hanra, in coordinated Stars ’n’ Stripes outfits, which brings us to the second event of the evening: Pugh's new do. Out with the perm and in with ceramic straighteners—because he’s worth it. Yet no one can compete with hairchitect Guido Palau, who not only has one of the best heads of hair in London but also the most striking pants of the night (from Comme des Garçons' Rolling Stones collection). All the while, publicist nonpareil Mandi Lennard—in Roksanda Ilincic, completing her look with a clipboard—worked the room, dutifully keeping all in check. (Where’s the Vuitton mono-mink, Mandi?)

And finally, for the afterparty, the jubilant fashion pack crammed into East End boozerie The Joiners for still more shenanigans.

—Dean Mayo Davies. Photos by Alistair Allan of Dirtydirtydancing.com

Terence Koh

THURSDAY, AUGUST 16, 2007

On the occasion of Terence Koh's first trip to Tokyo, we asked Cyril Duval (aka item idem, a conceptual artist from France), to give us a report of the welcoming party he whipped up. Here's what he sent (with additional snaps from Terence himself)...

I decided to crack a party for Terence—with stylist and photographer Kazumi Asamura—for no real reason. And we felt the crime scene should be the newly launched Le Baron de Paris, the latest venture by artist and night owl Mister A (after Le Baron in Paris and Beatrice Inn in New York). A media partner was needed, and it became obvious that it could only be the new Numèro Tokyo. Ako Tanaka, its editor-in-chief, didn't lose a second in associating her "baby" with the event, and at the same time creating the magazine's first official party. The deal was sealed. It would be called KOH KOH KOH, which, by translating Chinese into Japanese kanji, accidently yet aptly means: the smell/sense of high school.

A nice mix gathered, mostly influential peeps from the Japanese art scene, such as the inimitable gallerist Akimitsu Naruyama and ART iT editor-in-chief Tetsuya Osaki. Fashion types, too, showed up, among them Nobutaka Kaneko, the newly-appointed CEO of Balenciaga Japan, and his former employer, United Bamboo designer Miho Aoki, both good friends of the artist. Other fashion-minded Tokyoites included Keiko Mimoto (who helped launch Comme des Garçons, alongside Rei Kawakubo); Kosuke Tsumura, designer of Final Home; and younger designers like Kiri of the Harajuku-based Revolver, a label linked to French record label Ed Bangers. Everyone was there thanks to Mizuyo Yoshida of Steady Study, the hottest PR firm in town.

At a private party the night before, Terence entertained us by breakdancing on the dance floor (in his $20,000 Balenciaga robo-pants, no less), but tonight his pièce de résistance was a white wig, the kind donned by villains in traditional Kabuki theater. Surrounded by dry-ice mist, burning lights and the city's club kids, asianpunkboy (as Terence was formerly known) and his coterie danced to sounds provided by Jean-Marie Delbes (resident DJ of Le Baron in both Paris and Tokyo) and his partner-in-crime, Shoichi Kajino, creative director of L'Appareil photo agency.

And now, a shout-out to longtime mentor (and Canadian artist collective) General Idea. To them, I say: Nine lives, eight more to go! Mew, Maow, Miaou. Long live the Sunny Brave Dog!

And the sun rose again in Tokyo.

Henry Holland

WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007

You have to get up pretty early in the morning to know the frenetic goings-on of London's fashion scene. Such was the case this morning, when the city's fash-pack awoke at the crack of dawn to make it to UNIQLO's breakfast launch of cashmere and denim for the winter holidays. And what an impressive array it was: superior kaihara denim, super-soft cashmere and a new men’s selvedge line. Headlining, however, were hosts Gareth Pugh, Kim Jones and Carri Mundane, who modeled their new tees for UNIQLO, the latest in the UT (UNIQLO T-shirt) Project.

Arrival at the new Biscuit Tin at Shoreditch House felt like walking into a nightclub. All the familiar ingredients were there: BoomBox's DJ Jerry Bouthier on the decks, editors from Britain's top fashion titles, design tribes gathering on different sides of the room. Even BoomBox mastermind Richard Mortimer was on hand, keeping his resident DJ supplied with watermelon juice and bacon bagels.

“I don’t do mornings,” muttered Kim Jones, the first of the designers to arrive, before mellowing into a friendlier chat about the T-shirt he designed for the project. “I sat down with my graphic designer and we thought about all of our favorite song lyrics and worked them in. We also got some S-Express in there,” he added. “I’m in the band, you know!”

Then it was off for a bit of circulating with bold-facers: the Sunday Times' fashion critic Colin McDowell, the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander, Dazed & Confused editor-in-chief Nicki Bidder, British GQ’s Charlie Porter (wearing the baggiest Raf Simons jeans known to man), the Guardian’s Jess Cartner-Morley and Samantha Conti, London bureau chief of WWD, who I shared a Bucks Fizz with. Stacey Duguid from Elle shared a couch with her team, while Ben Readon, editor of i-D, and his fashion editors Francesca Burns and Erika Kurihara munched on wild mushroom omelettes, as well as the fall denims from Uniqlo's main line, which was also on display. “It's mingling as an extreme sport,” observed i-D contributing editor Hanna Hanra.

Gareth Pugh arrived next, and he was quickly commended by his publicist Mandi Lennard, who organized the event, for wearing UNIQLO. “It’s my only piece,” he quipped, perhaps angling for a few free samples to be thrown his way. Gareth’s design, with his signature checkerboard and star motifs, is reminiscent of the graphic, futuristic prints from his own line. “I’ve only started making sales with my main collection," he said, "but all of my stockists are pretty exclusive so it’s nice to have a presence on the high street.” Always thinking of the kids!

Our conversation was interrupted by the lovely Emma Elwick from Vogue, who came with her new friend and winner of Vogue's New Talent competition [and Hint contributor], Stephen Doig. After chatting about boys and reminiscing about our joint adventures at Glastonbury, it was time to sniff out the third and final designer in the project: Carri Mundane of Cassette Playa, who I found sharing a scrambled egg and smoked salmon toastette with Dazed & Confused fashion editor Katie Shillingford and Eyespy editor and photographer Matt Irwin. “All of my prints are based on symbolism,” she told me of her T-shirts, “and this one is based on Fischer Price. You know, the children's toys.”

In an elevator back to civilization, Gareth rummaged through his goodie bag and pulled out a cashmere top. “Shit, I’ve gone and picked up a women's bag. Oh well, I’ll give it to Pippa, me housemate!” Which might explain why he has only one piece of UNIQLO in his wardrobe.

—Henry Holland. Photos by Alistair Allan of Dirtydirtydancing.com

Dazzle Dancers

THURSDAY, JULY 19, 2007

The Dazzle Dancers—in collaboration with artist Bec Stupak and Peace Bisquit records—premiered their new single and music video, The Love Boat, at Deitch Projects in Soho. Most who know the Dazzles probably know them from New York’s seedy underbelly, where their message of peace and love through nudity is readily accepted (of course!). Having slept with some of them (of course!), I know them well and often cheerlead, but anyone could see the upgrade in venue marked a sort of watershed—change was in the smoke-machined air. The event was sponsored by megabrand Adidas and the Dazzles even rehearsed. But the most shocking of all? In the last chaotic minutes before show time, as techies scrambled, Dazzles dressed and glitter swirled, Cherry Dazzle ordered me not to pass around my whiskey. Not that it mattered, since by the time the doors finally opened, more than a few Dazzles were a beer away from blackout.

Hundreds arrived, but most did not get in. Thankfully, the cops arrived to clear away the rabble (i.e. Lady Bunny). Those who made it in remarked upon the irony that the Dazzles—a group of people who pride themselves on crashing parties—could have a door so rigidly policed. Victors included Paul Alexander, Murray Hill, Michael Musto, William Hurt and, looking a little traumatized, Brian Clamp (of Clamp Art), Paper's Kim Hastreiter, Zaldy, Miguel Villalobos and Jay McCarroll. Porn star Colton Ford, meanwhile, seemed totally at home, perhaps owing to the bright lights and lubrication—booze, that is.

The show began with a review of Dazzle fashions, from 1996 to the present. Designed and rehabilitated by the aptly named Machine Dazzle, the costumes ran the gamut (not that it's a big one) from sequinned sailor shorts to skimpy strips of tape, but all were shiny and made for quick removal. Then, in black leotards with iridescent stars, the Dazzles proved that nothing, not rehearsals, Adidas cash, or high production values, could change their basic ethos—love, liberation, libation and glitter (over 30 pounds of it). They danced, sometimes even in unison, amid clouds of overzealous smoke, before getting naked—always a crowd-pleaser—and posing in tableaux.

After the show, the Dazzles rushed the crowd. Before long, it was the kind of party the Dazzles come from, with shirtless and sweaty men, dirty smoke and house music thumping. It was an opportunity for everyone to participate in a little Dazzle play. Days later, we're still aglow—and aglitter.

—Andrew Dunn, groupie, assistant and honorary Dazzle

BoomBox

SUNDAY, JULY 1, 2007

Not even a torrent of rain in London could keep revelers away from the first anniversary party of BoomBox. And what a first year it's been for the man behind the mayhem, Richard Mortimer. Not only has he welcomed friends including Bjork, Wolfgang Tillmans, Luella Bartley, Judy Blame and Sam Taylor-Wood to pop into the Hoxton Square space and spin their favorite records, but he’s also thrown London Fashion Week parties for i-D and Pop magazines. He's even taken the BoomBox show—a plane load of DJs, club kids and designers—to repeat the magic at Milan Fashion Week. And future projects include Jeremy Scott and Ryan McGinley as guest DJs and the BoomBox book, launching soon at London Fashion Week.

But back to the party. Doorgirl Cozette (in a gold Jil Sander frock, pint in hand) was all kisses and winks as she handpicked regulars from the crowd outside. Inside, the small but packed dance floor went into meltdown as special guest Roisin Murphy, in a sculpted black Zac Posen number and top hat, launched into her new tune, Overpowered. Earlier, Gareth Pugh wowed everyone with a killer set that included Flashdance, a mass sing-along to Mariah Carey’s All I Want for Christmas and a familiar track that has his name written all over it, Fame.

Those who couldn't handle the dance floor mania retired to the lounge for beautiful-people watching, a group that included Giles Deacon, Katie Grand, Lara Bohinc, Henry Holland of House of Holland, David Saunders of David David and club kids working outrageous looks. The city's new smoking ban meant the garden was jammed-packed, almost as much fun as the dance floor—or the bathroom, a scene also in full swing with gaggles of she-boys hogging the mirror, posing for impromptu photo shoots and trading X-rated gossip.

Soon it was closing time. As the appropriately chosen last record, We Are Family, kicked in, the crowd sang a heartfelt “Happy Birthday, Dear BoomBox” at maximum volume. Fierce, friendly, fun and f-a-b-u-l-o-u-s. BoomBox is more than nightlife, it's a way of life. And we we love it!

—Lulu Kennedy, director of FASHION EAST. Photos by Alistair Allan of Dirtydirtydancing.com

Flanders Fashion Institute

JUNE 14-16, 2007
In an old warehouse on the bank of the Scheldt river, the 122 fashion students of the renowned Antwerp Royal Academy of Art showed their year-end work in a (somewhat numbing) four-hour runway show. Instructed by Walter Van Beirendonck, easily the rowdiest of the original Antwerp Six, the fourteen graduates showed no signs of fatigue, no doubt energized at the thought of being similarly discovered. Judging from the whoops and hollers that came from industry insiders and the Belgian public alike, we think they have an excellent chance of it. The fashion world could certainly use another Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester or, more recently, Kris Van Assche, Dior Homme's new designer.

Another former student, Bruno Pieters was among the most buzzed-about attendees with his recent announcement that he'll resign as teacher at the academy to concentrate on his new job as creative director at Hugo Boss, as well as his own women's and men's label—but not before a going-away party of sorts. We bumped into him on the third day, his eyes covered with sunglasses. “I haven't seen my bed,” he admitted in a hushed voice still hoarse from a party he threw at his apartment the night before.

The jurors were a familiar bunch that included Linda Loppa, the school's former course director, who now works as the dean of Polimoda fashion school in Florence; Parisian corsetier Mr. Pearl; designer and alumna Véronique Branquinho; make-up artist Inge Grognard; Barbara Franchin, director of Italian talent agency Eve; and Kuki de Salvertes, the French publicist whose PR firm in Paris, Totem, specializes in Belgian talent.

And talent the graduating class delivered once again. Marc Philippe Coudeyre sent out a gloriously baroque womenswear collection that was as bold and dark as it was meticulous and couture-like. Fabrics from brocade to neoprene were nicely draped as dresses or courageously ruffled as short capes. Although the style has been a regular on the runways in Paris, the French native's gift is undeniable.

We were also enchanted by Taro Horiuchi's ethereal and futuristic men's collection, called Ancient Plastic. His delicately detailed pieces came in bright whites, soft grays, transparent neoprene (a clear winner this year) and sheer gold. The plissé men's skirts recalled Olivier Theyskens' flowy women's creations for Nina Ricci.

Another favorite was the gray and burgundy men's collection from Gunhyo Kim, a South Korean with an amazing cutting technique that could be seen, for example, in a suit resembling a flag. His refreshing approach is to slim down a silhouette rather than build it up.

Raul Egloff Alcaide chose ancient Greece and its boy-love reputation as his inspiration. The collection told the story of innocence—in, say, ruffled boxers—slowly giving way to a harsher reality, in leather and, again, neoprene.

Finally, thumbs up for two unique, if opposing, visions. Lenny Leleu delivered sexy yet inventively frivolous bathing suits, while conceptualist Andrea Ayala Closa opted for faceless models in simple, but finely crafted black outfits with spooky appliquéd hands. We had the impression she wanted to tell the story of the working class, people whose identities are often unknown. She was, perhaps, the one who best captured the philosophical and moody approach to fashion for which the Antwerp Academy—and, through it, Belgian design—is so acclaimed.

—Cathérine Ongenae

Preen

MONDAY, JUNE 11, 2007
Thanks to rain, birds of a feather huddled together at Preen's 10-year anniversary party in the covered courtyard of the Soho Grand. But like water off a duck's back, nothing could dampen the spirits at the cozy soiree organized by Seven New York. Ruling the roost (last one, promise) were Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, the duo—professional and romantic—behind the London label (who, by our estimate, have used at least four materials associated with anniversaries in their collections so far: paper, cotton, leather and linen—antlers, apparently, don't count). Other Sevenites included artist Kenzo Minami, MisShape Geordon Nicol, stylist Haidee Findlay-Levin, Fiasco keyboardist Amanda Berkowitz and the shop's own Joseph Quartana. "Time flies" was the utterance of the night, but perhaps no one felt it more than the guests of honor. "I can't believe it's been ten years since Thea and I met at art school in the middle of nowhere," Thornton told us [the Isle of Man, to be exact, in the middle of the Irish Sea]. "But then, everything about us has a slight offness to it. Nothing in our lives or our line is 100% symmetrical. We do things differently."
Credit where credit is due: "Buyers can be conservative, but Joe buys the most experimental stuff and manages to sell it. That alone is enough to love New York."
Edit where edit is due: Guests were treated to a copy of Preen's self-published book, a slick monograph called—what else?—Decade.

Chanel

FRIDAY, MAY 18, 2007
While Karl Lagerfeld, forever on the go, has staged Cruise collections for Chanel in over-the-top places of transport before (a luxury barge on the Seine in 2004, old-timey Paris buses in 2005 and New York's Grand Central Station last year), nothing compares to the first-class spectacle he presented for winter 07/08 at the Santa Monica Airport.
Scene by scene: Just after sunset, two charter-style jets bearing "Chanel Airlines" signage taxied into Hangar 8, the doors opened and models filed down the plane steps and onto a diamond-shaped catwalk, literally going from runway to runway. The 500-strong guests went crazy with applause and continued whooping throughout. The moment the show ended, a bar appeared in the middle of the runway and waiters rushed the space, placing champagne bottles at each banquette (or, by special order, kumquat martinis).
The fashion: Navy '70s-style stewardess uniforms; flared slacks; jaunty headbands and floppy hats like something out of a roller derby; black sequined robes á la smoking jackets; and a Chanel bag on a leash, "walked" down the runway like a dog.
Random sights: Claudia Schiffer, who stars in the current Cruise campaign as well as Lagerfeld's latest campaign for Dom Pérignon, seemed very excited about posing for photos with the planes' pilots... A white silk top with the words "No Smoking" on the back caught the attention of an unusually flack-free Lindsay Lohan, who shrieked, "I want that!"... Cat Power sat in the front row with her attentive French bulldog... Over at the Beverly Hills hotel, Lagerfeld's palace away from palace, a never-ending stream of models was seen rushing in and out for fittings.
Other bolders: artist-surfer Takuji Matsuda, Carine Roitfeld, Lagerfeld muse Amanda Harlech, Michel Gaubert (who created the show's soundtrack, but Steve Aoki—brother of Devon Aoki—DJ'd at the after-party), Lily Allen, Diane Kruger, Milla Jovovich, Patricia Field, Dita von Teese, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Riley Keough, Oliver Stone, Doug Aitken, Monet Mazur, Lisa Eisner, Michele Hicks.
Before and after: Coco herself visited L.A. in 1931 to dress stars like Gloria Swanson, Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. Now flash forward to late 2008, when the Chanel biopic, starring Audrey Tautou, is slated to hit theaters. So timeless!

Kate Moss

TUESDAY, MAY 8, 2007
What do you get when you throw up—as they so charmingly say in the UK—a fast-fashion High Street chain, a stuff-of-legend English supermodel and a very exclusive U.S. launch party in Manhattan? Kate Moss ad nauseam, a media feeding frenzy that nearly eclipsed the Queen's visit stateside (a simultaneous sojourn, though little chance of the two wearing the same outfit). Such is the sway and sparkle of Madison Avenue. Which isn't to say we don't absolutely love Kate or want her peddling her debut Topshop collection at Barneys New York, because we totally do. After all, we have a thing for heroines, so to us, with her infamous fall and rise, now a distant memory, she can do no wrong. Besides, the party (and The Costume Institute's party of the year) brought out some of our favorite Brits: a moral-supporting Sadie Frost, journos Suzy Menkes and Hilary Alexander, Pop covergirl Agyness Deyn and designer-of-the-mo Christopher Kane, not to mention DJs Queens of Noize, who played fun 80's radio hits. And certainly there's a lot to love in the high-style, low-priced collection itself, also available at Opening Ceremony. It's just that, well, when they said it was modeled after her own style, we thought it would be a mirror reflection of her floaty, barely-there, chiffon-like existence. When, or why, did everything surrounding the original '90s waif get so heavy? You know, like the arrival of Harvey Weinstein that sparked Hollywood speculation, the £50,000 thank-you ring reportedly given to Kate by Topshop boss Sir Philip Green, and let's not forget those yoga-contortioned, feet-behind-head, in-your-face bronze statues by artist Marc Quinn, currently on view at Mary Boone gallery. Weighty stuff, but at least we could take solace in the easy-breezy after-party, held in an airy garden atop the Gramercy Park, where the likes of Cameron Diaz, Ziyi Zhang, Marc Jacobs, Kate Bosworth, Mario Testino, Winona Ryder, Lily Donaldson, Daria Werbowy and another Brit, Amy Winehouse, rolled up. No complaints here, but we long to see that most familiar and comforting of sights, the image of an ethereal, inaccessible Kate knowingly yet blankly staring back at us from the cold pages of a magazine.

Opening Ceremony

SATURDAY, APRIL 7, 2007
They may share initials, but who needs The O.C. when you can have the guiltiest pleasure of all, Opening Ceremony? A champion of underground talent and fave of New York's retail scene opened shop in Los Angeles with a dinner (at its new address: 451 N. La Cienega Blvd) and party (at Echoplex club). And, if you're co-owner Humberto Leon, can it get any cooler than celebrating your new L.A. store with Drew Barrymore and Spike Jonze, who chowed down on your mom's finger food? We think not. Naturally, given Opening Ceremony's global leanings, the nibblies were a sampling of world cuisine, from Italian meatballs to Korean sushi. Did we mention that mom, Wendy Leon, is a professional caterer?
Other bolders: Jeremy Scott, Karen O. of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Leo Fitzpatrick, stylist Arianne Phillips, Jefferson Hack, Anouck Lepere, Cecila Dean (V was a sponsor), Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy, artist Brian DeGraw, Jimmy Tamborello of the band Dntel, skateboarding legend Tony Alva, gallerist Javier Peres and Danish rocker Jeppe Laursen of Junior Senior.

FRIDAY, MARCH 2, 2007
The Boombox party, with its suggestive name and the many vulgar House of Holland slogan tees floating throughout, heralded the end of Paris Fashion Week with a bang (if you were lucky). Together with hot French record label Kitsune, the London club touched down at Le Paris Paris for one night only, following a similar recreation two weeks ago during Milan Fashion Week. "It's a lot like the London party, but it's just not the same without club kids," lamented Richard Mortimer, Boombox's mastermind, before disclosing he'll soon bring the party—the focal point of London's much-ballyhooed Neu Rave scene—to New York's flaccid nightlife. Among those he'll likely import is Boombox's iconic door "girl" Jeanette, who, on this night in Paris, intimidated the street throng by donning a furry wookie-like cocoon by Stephen Jones for Giles. Inside, it was mostly a British affair: ex-Pulp frontman Jarvis Cocker; Giles Deacon; rising-star designers Marios Schwab, Christopher Kane and Peter Jensen; model-of-the-mo Agyness Deyn; stylists Camille Bidault-Waddington, Sarah Richardson and Tamara Cincik; a very mustachioed Nuno Goncalves of The George & Dragon (another Hoxton Square dive, if more drag kitsch than club kid); Gareth Pugh (who, exhausted from a full week of showing his collection chez Rick Owens, confessed to having been "naughty" at Boombox). And there was, of course, the maker of those vulgar tees, Henry Holland, who says he's in talks to bring his rudely rhyming slogans to a host of other products. Tonight, however, none was more appropriate than "Twinks and Jocks are All Welcome at Boombox."

TUESDAY, JANUARY 9, 2007
If Michael Musto's party to launch his first book, La Dolce Musto, was a press-for-press-sake affair, a description he would not deny, who better than the Village Voice gossip columnist himself to give us a taste?

Who I was happy to see out: Anybody!
Who I wish had stayed in: Michael Lucas. He spent the party pitching me an item about himself.
Just there for the free press: Me!
Just there for the free booze: Nobody! It turns out people don't drink anymore. They must have been mainlining hard stuff.
Ass I would have most liked to kiss: Jacob Bernstein! Jason Bellini! Cindy Adams! Ben Widdicombe! Or any of the other 500 press people there.
Ass I had the best chance of kissing: Mariel Hemingway. And I did! I told her my "bad movie club" just watched her '70s camp classic, Lipstick. She was a good sport about it and didn't get violent.
Best service I got at Room Service, where the party took place: Perez Hilton agreed to cohost (with Rosie Perez). He flew himself in, showed up on time, and graciously never tried to steal my big, fat thunder.
Best service I ever got: A little lovemaking in the stairway at the old Limelight club. No wonder it's turning into an H&M.
Number of former blind items in attendance: Every single person there had been a blind item and I prayed they didn't pick up the book and realize that.
Fastest loop-and-leave: Gilligan's Island star Tina Louise. Rather than do a three-hour tour, she came in for a few minutes, greeted me, posed for the 5000 photographers, and had to go. But I was thrilled to see her.
Why Joan Rivers is amazing: When I told her a friend of mine at the party had tried to upstage me, fashion-wise, she whispered, "He could never look better than you!"
Who did my puffy pirate shirt: A downtown thrift shop with obvious connections to the Seinfeld show.
What I was thinking when I put it on: There's no such thing as bad press.
How I tell the difference between Amanda Lepore and Ivana Trump: Ivana's the one with the dick.
The morning after, I: Flipped through all my publicity. And thanked Jesus that Shaggy hadn't crashed.
What my next book is about: Who cares—as long as I get to have another party!

DECEMBER 5-9, 2006
Anyone's who's ever been to Art Basel in Miami knows it's as much about the parties as it is the art. So, in our absence this year, we asked Hint friend Casey Spooner, who hosted his own party at the Delano, to give us a diary of his four-day debauchery. Who knows debauchery better than one half of Fischerspooner?

Dear Diary,
This is my fourth Art Basel. The first year Fischerspooner performed, the second year I went to the convention center, where all the galleries shill their wares, but only for fifteen minutes to buy a painting from Deitch that I knew I wanted, and last year I found the experience exhausting and overwhelming. It is not an exhibition, it's a warehouse sale. Therefore, this year, my schedule would be full of fun times with friends!

Day One:
I arrived later in the day and, as I had flown Jet Blue, was absolutely starving. I could hardly speak to the chic crowd that was already teeming at baggage claim. I checked into the Shore Club and went directly to Sultan, the Middle Eastern falafel shack wedged between Mynt Lounge and the hotel. Sultan is THEEE place to eat in South Beach. Everyone is there and it is the only place that doesn't take two hours to have a mediocre meal that is needlessly expensive. Within five minutes of sitting down, the parade and excitement began. Ben Cho and artist Nate Lowman landed at the table beside me, Spencer Product stopped by on his way to DJ the Visionaire tent, while Suzanne Geiss from Deitch, Stefano Tonchi from the New York times and I witnessed the hoards of VIPs pouring onto Collins Avenue. I was there and it was on! Let the social marathon begin.

I went from there directly to the beach to catch some of Peaches' show. I had missed her show in London and New York and I really wanted to see her new band. The beach was beautiful and it was a big crowd. I love Peaches' shows and I have seen many, but Miami sound ordinances made this one not one of my favorites. The city kept the Db levels so low that it took some of the punch out of a great performance.

I ran back to the hotel and donned my pink YSL cruise collection tuxedo and threw a bow in my hair and raced to the Deitch party at the Raleigh to see Devendra Banhart perform with his posse of hairy men. The show was very mellow. It was nice to slow down among the anticipation and excitement of the first day of the fair. But the minute the encore was cut off, again due to sound ordinances, the energy picked back up. The Perez Projects cabana was especially hopping and I hung with Slava Mogutin and Brian Kenny. Around 4:00 am, we went to David's and had cuban sandwiches and plantains and discussed Shakespeare. We were surprised to see the ladies of Avenue D. I stumbled home and called it a night.

Day Two:
Believe it or not, I am not a big partier. I just play one on TV. So I awoke with quite the hangover. I made it across the street to get a "grande" Cuban coffee and headed for the beach. I was out of practice at lounging in the sun so I headed to the Raleigh to meet the painter Michael Bevilacqua. We had dinner and drinks by the pool to get through the obligations ahead.

Mathu Placek, the photographer, and I headed to Yvonne Force's dinner at the Standard. It was beautiful and everyone was lounging on kick-ass beach towels made by various artists. The Marilyn Minter was my favorite. I saw the core of the New York art posse. We said hello and goodbye and busted a move over to the Delano to see Dita Von Teese perform. I have always wanted to see her and have never had the chance. We fought our way through the door and waited by the pool, over which the stage was suspended. The show began with model-y dudes in black jeans and no shirt pulling curtains back to reveal a giant tube of lipstick that she rode like an electric bull. Dita's costume was so sparkly! I have never seen anything sparklier! EVER. Not Vegas. Not Paris. Damn, I was jealous. Again the sound was a bit underwhelming as is the case I see now with every outdoor performance in Miami. Dita is good, but in a way...too good and perfectly executed. It was as if I was seeing something I had never seen but already imagined, strange but not surprising. She danced. She pranced. She stripped. She rode the giant electric-bull lipstick, which was choreographed beautifully and was pretty damn ridiculously awesome.

The minute the show was over I had to get my ass over to my party. I hosted an evening at Studio A with Hernan Bas, Naomi Fischer, Michael Bevilacqua and Armando Alexander. Whitey performed and they were fantastic. I had heard of him/them, but I had never seen a show. They have been on tour, opening for Peaches, and it was by far the best show I had seen all week and in quite a while. We drank too much tequila and danced, then headed to the next and final stop.

Le Baron. Okay, I have had a beef with these Frenchies as one of my favorite places in Miami is Star Studios, the karaoke bar in the basement of the Shelbourne. These peeps took it over last year and ruined my favorite uncool hiding spot, but this year they redeemed themselves. It was the den of sin for all of the most talented and exciting decandents of the art world. And no matter how I tried, I was always drawn to the debauchery of Le Baron. The best part was the live karaoke band of French rockers with sullen faces who you only find in Paris. And the host was a kind of circus sideshow hawker with a big moustache and a great personality. One night, the crowd at the door was deep and it was not pretty. After enjoying waiting outside with all the right people (often I have more fun waiting to get in to an event and I have learned to relax and enjoy the scene on the street), we were pulled through a terrifying throng of hungry revelers. It was serious scary and on the verge of real danger. But no matter, we were in. Along the way I ran into the artist Robert Melee and the minute we got in we figured out how to jump the line of karaoke singers and did a very experimental version of Nightclubbing. WE WERE ART. And a good time was had by all.

Day Three:
Alright, I'm getting tired now at Art Basel and feeling like I should just cut and run. It is all a bit too much and this year's fair seems to have taken the whole endeavor up a notch. More parties. More dinners. More artists. More celebrites. More money. More sponsors. MORE. MORE. MORE.

The photographer Thomas Dozol and I go to the Paper Magazine Store in the Design District. It is a great little shop filled with interesting artist-made objects and products. We bought several of the beach towels that Yvonne Force produced and admired much of the rest. But the best part were the amazing murals painted by Jim Drain all over the store. Beautiful and brightly colored stencils of dollar signs and the words "thank you." Forget wallpaper! Call Jim.

We then went to the Albion and played miniature golf, then raced home to change for the night. The wind on the tented terrace of The Raleigh was insane. We were there for Arden Wohl's screening of her short film and the weather only heightened the excitement. The film starred Domino, who is also in a band called Domino that is made up of the founding members of Dopo Yume. They performed after the film and they sounded great. She has a fantastic voice and a really nice presence. Very folksy, but not too folksy. In fear of being flung from the terrace in gale force winds, I escaped to the Vanity Fair/Moma party at the Shore Club. It was very big. After seeing Doug Aitken, I busted a move to the best scene in town, Le Baron. And you know the rest.

Day Four:
I booked myself a full day of spa treatments at the Standard. I steamed, I sauna-ed, I got rubbed and scrubbed and came out feeling like a new man ready for a final lap around town. I had a great dinner with Simon Hammerstein (one of the owners of the Box in New York, the newest best venue in town) and raced over to the Delano to host a cabana by the pool. David Byrne, Marcelo Krasilcic and others stopped by for a quick drink. Pictures were taken and we were off to the Visionaire party. We ate caviar and drank vodka and shimmied to the musical stylings of DJ Michel Gaubert. We also gawked at the Miami-style strippers, male and female. I saw artist Jack Pierson and introduced myself to Andreas, the super hot super male super model. He looked so lonely and sweet. Mathu, photographer Abbey Drucker and I wooed him and proceeded to get him drunk and steal him away to Le Baron, where we molested him on the dance floor. At 5:00 am we closed Sultan, which is unheard of, and had a finale slice of pizza on the steps of the Shore Club. And when Paris Hilton drunkenly stumbled out of her Maybach in front of us and into the hotel, ending her night before me, I knew it was time to turn in.

I survived Art Basel 2006! Love, CS

TUESDAY, DECEMBER 9, 2006
The Butt boys are at it again, this time plugging their new book and Taschen's latest release, Butt Book (see Hint's slideshow). Although it required a password, whispered furtively on a side street, to gain entry to the Vault in the Bank club, this was a less-than-secret VIP affair—aswirl with all stripes, shapes, prints, plaids and persuasions. Photographers, however, were not invited; this photo of a certain Hint editor's papery behind is the only good party pic we've been able to rustle up.
Other fuzzy (Butt) memories: There must have been more pink balloons than there are in homo heaven; Seven's Joseph Quartana spun an especially thumping set before we all scampered off to 205 club—or, for some, the Cock.
Butt wait, there's more: Final Fantasy began playing around 1:00 am. The one-man-band is the brainchild of Owen Pallett, a violinist described in the newest issue of Butt (#18) as "a total cuddle slut." He's 25, Canadian, cute, surprisingly soulful and yes, pretty fantastic.

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2006
Though Rudolph was nowhere in sight, red-nosed leaders of London's fashion scene braved chilly weather en route to the launch of The Reindeer, a pop-up restaurant lasting only until Christmas. Inside, the masters of ceremonies—Pablo Flack and David Waddington (also owners of the cult eatery Bistrotheque) and Katie Grand (POP's editrix)—were in good spirits, thanks to teams of waiters who kept champagne glasses full as they weaved among forty real fir trees in the East End space also known as The Old Truman Brewery. Reined in for the food, fashion and frolic were artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, Arena Homme Plus editor-in-chief Jo-Ann Furniss, UK Vogue fashion features editor Harriet Quick, designer Hazel Robinson, Central Saint Martin instructor David Kappo, Fashion East's Lulu Kennedy and Colin McDowell, senior fashion writer of the Sunday Times Style magazine. When shamelessly asked to divulge a past Yuletide faux pas, Grand told us, "I was at a Christmas party years ago and I tried to get jiggy with a photographer from the Evening Standard. Luella Bartley was the fashion editor at the time and she was so embarrassed of me!" Apart from hosting the event, Grand designed the smiley-faced, Neu Rave-inspired Christmas crackers that contained little presents ranging from Stephen Jones paper hats to badges by designers Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon and Katie Hillier. Hillier, the brains behind the return of the scrunchie, also made the Christmas tree decorations in Perspex, leather and heavy metal. After guests inhaled four courses, a rollicking game of "pass the parcel” commenced, whereby presents were passed around to the sounds of a live piano, each one finding an owner when the music stopped. Various designers donated the prizes, of which knitted cigarettes by knit wit Nova Dando, Dior make-up, Karen Walker sunglasses and a pair of jeweled Gina shoes garnered the biggest squeals. At one point Deacon leaned in and quipped, "Oh, you're from Heat, are you?," mistaking Hint for the UK tabloid. We can only hope the comment was as ironic as the plates he created for the occasion, which McDowell later asked if he could "steal"—and presumably did. —Erica Crompton

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2006
Former bad boys from Alexander McQueen to John McEnroe made their way to the New York Prada Epicenter to toast artist and fashion satirist Tom Sachs as he celebrated the release of his first, self-titled monograph, published by Fondazione Prada. Apparently Sachs, whose Prada Toilet counts among his more poignant works, has been forgiven.
Other bolders: Former boss Simon Doonan, artists Tobias Wong & Amelia Bauer, Hamish Bowles, Helena Christensen, Ingrid Sischy & Sandra Brant, Hope Atherton and Andy Spade. Also celebrating tonight was Michelle Sanders, the new President of Miu Miu USA.
Other fuzzy memories: A surprise DJ set by '80’s icon Biz Markie and more pool-party food than we could stuff our mouths with: corn dogs, hamburgers, twice-baked potatoes and Budweiser from half-cans. In our defense, the menu was Americana-inspired.

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006
Juggling Jil Sander and his own label, Raf Simons has to be one of the busiest people in fashion. Still, even northern Europeans with a strong work ethic have to eat. So the press-shy designer slipped out of his studio—and Belgium—to pop into Barneys New York for a dinner and afterparty in his honor. The meal, which consisted of filet mignon and pumpkin soup dished up in pumpkin halves, was served in Simon Doonan's studio; and while the creative director of Barneys had apparently tidied up for company, the Santa Claus-like workshop was littered with his soon-to-be-unveiled Christmas window displays, a tribute to each decade of Andy Warhol's life. "Even though there were no drugged out trannies present," he told us, "I think Andy would have really enjoyed the spectacle of all those trendy New York art people dining in front of the window mock-ups." But Simons is no stranger to art (you know he often makes trips to New York just to buy the stuff, right?), so the guests—which included gallerists Gavin Brown and Matthew Higgs, P.S.1's chief curator Klaus Biesenbach, as well as Kuki de Salvertes of the Paris PR agency Totem and Steven Klein—made for a seamless fusion of art and fashion. Chatting up a storm were Barneys' universally adored womenswear buyer, Julie Gilhart (radiant, literally, in a silver sequin Sander number), New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn and Simons. They then led the pack downtown to the afterparty at 205, joining an Antwerp posse of Olivier Rizzo (stylist), Willy Vanderperre (photog) and Peter de Potter (journo). Also on hand were Michael Stipe, Vogue's Hamish Bowles, Times super-stylist Anne Christensen, Daryl K., Threeasfour (who informed us we'd see knits in their next collection), Cloak designer Alexandre Plokhov, model Nathan Bogle and some weird girl who kept lifting her skirt and demanding we take her picture. Meanwhile, in Opening Ceremony news, Humberto Leon told us he's opening a branch in L.A. that will be three times the size of New York's, and that the next country the store will spotlight, following Sweden, will be either Belgium or Japan. Seven New York's Joseph Quartana DJ'd, playing every one of our fave ditties from the early 90s (it's a beats-per-minute moment, in case you hadn't noticed the song lyric "I'm the One and Only Dominator" adorning a Bernhard Willhelm T-shirt for spring), while Purple magazine's Olivier Zahm was all over a Seven shopgirl. He probably would have had more luck with the weird skirt girl.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2006
Jeremy Scott celebrated ten years in the biz and his new Tabloid collection for Yoox.com (available December 4, preview edition available now at colette). The night started with a private dinner at the Ritz, followed by a madcap party at Paris Paris club.
Bolders: Actress Elodie Bouchez, Bernhard Willhelm, stylist Catherine Baba, Jefferson Hack and squeeze Anouck Lepere, Terry and Tricia Jones, graffiti artists Andre and Fafi, Purple's Olivier Zahm and editors from Elle, Figaro, L'Officiel, Jalouse and Crash.
Other fuzzy memories: Moet & Chandon bubbly all night; tabloid-style stencil airbrushing by USLU Airlines; huge birthday cake brought out at the end of the night, igniting a full-blown paparazzi photo war.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006
Obligatory name-checking: Hosts Drew Barrymore, Maggie Gyllenhaal and house model Natalia Vodianova; fashion scions Bee Shaffer, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and Margherita Missoni; couples (romantic and otherwise) Naomi Watts and Liev Schreiber, Sean Lennon and Irina Lazareanu (she's come a long way since her days in Model Mania); and an estimated thousand other guests, not to mention the designer-in-chief, Francisco Costa.
Fuzzy memories: Seemingly art directed tropical fish in tanks; mini-burgers and french fries in cones; a mind-blowing 360-degree view of downtown Manhattan atop 7 World Trade Center, until a cloud bank rolled in that had people wondering whether the it was planned (it wasn't, Francisco told us).
Careless whisper: "I was backstage at Anna Sui, not long before the show," said a friend of Hint, "when a call came in from Lindsay Lohan's camp. She couldn't find a dress to wear and wanted to know if they would hold the show." They wouldn't.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2006
If you think you dance like a duck on crack, angrily shaking your tail and stomping the floor with webbed feet, Colette seems to have heard your quacks for help. The Paris-based retail powerhouse and launch pad for all things cool brought Colette Dance Class, its popular monthly party and actual class at the Paris-Paris club, all the way to New York (following Tokyo last month), and just in time for Fashion Week. The curriculum? To teach the robo-nerdy moves from Daft Punk's bouncy 1997 hit "Around the World" to thirty invited students. The teacher? A French dance instructor named—bien sur—John the French dance instructor. For an hour, everyone at the 80s-themed Culture Club—a packed house that included Ellen Von Unwerth, Anouck Lepere, James Iha (the former Smashed Pumpkin), original Dogtowner Tony Alva with Katy Rodrigues (of Resurrection), artist WK Interact, party promoter Voula Duval, James Murphy, Armand Van Helden, and rapper M.I.A. with DJ Diplo—heard nothing but the classic dance anthem (danthem?) as little duckies waddled their way across a flashing dance floor, a la Saturday Night Fever, and their friends egged them on. We arranged for a Hint intern to take the course and fill us in. Here's what Lisa had to say: "They made all of us wear skeleton masks and divided us into groups. Some of us learned the swimming motion, others the half-walking motion, and so on. Everyone was really into it. I didn't stop dancing for four hours, even after the class. The music was amazing. And the martinis were a plus. If I could just get that larger-than-life illustration of Andrew McCarthy out of my head."

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2006
Another iconic B was added to the mix on Madison Avenue with the launch party for "Balenciaga Paris" (Thames & Hudson) at Barneys (marking Jetsetera's return from summer break!). Besides host Nicolas Ghesquiere, the Fashion Week kick-off drew the likes of Grace Coddington, Iman, Fabien Baron (who art directed the tome), new Vanity Fair fashion director Michael Roberts, publicist Sylvie Picquet and, to everyone's surprise, the reclusive Cindy Sherman (whose own monograph hits bookstores soon). "Balenciaga Paris" accompanies the same-named, 170-piece exhibit at the Louvre, which curator Pamela Golbin, who also edited the book, told us, "is a project that has been ongoing for about 20 years. We're extremely pleased to finally present what Cristobal Balenciaga brought to the fashion vocabulary, much of which comes from the donation he made to the museum when he closed his house in 1968." Nicolas, whose luggage was lost at the airport, revealed to us that he had to make impromptu purchases at the store, including a flannel blazer by one of our fave new men's brands, Band of Outsiders. We could've chatted him up more for you Hintsters, but we were then trampled by reporters galloping toward the Olsen tadpoles, who had just oozed into the room. We, instead, sidled up to an infinitely more charismatic couple, Waris Ahluwalia and Chiara Clemente. Waris filled us in more on his Lynyrd Skynyrd-inspired lapel pins for A.P.C., which will be featured here shortly, while Chiara, who's daddy is none other than Francesco, told us her first feature film, a documentary about her favorite female artists, hits theaters this fall and might also show at the next Art Basel Miami. Then they had to dash out to catch Kiki & Herb on Broadway, which we were fortunate enough to catch on opening night. Note to Nicolas: we're sure the apres-dinner in your honor at Barneys' CEO Howard Socol's Soho loft was lovely, but although you missed the guffaw-inspiring show that night, you can catch the, er, man behind Kiki, Justin Bond, at Spiegel Theater on September 22. Or, of course, you can just watch her greatest hits on You Tube. You might have Coco, but we have Kiki!

THURSDAY, JUNE 15, 2006
Though small in number, the seventeen graduating fashion students of Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts could hardly have bigger futures. Here's why. First, consider the school's alumni, a renowned bunch that counts Martin Margiela, Walter Van Beirendonck, Peter Pilotto and Veronique Branquinho. Second, if you can find a copy at better bookstores, leaf through +ONE, a slick collaborative magazine that paired each of the grads with a big wig of Belgian design (though not necessarily grads of the university), including Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester. And finally, for the clincher, take a look at these backstage images of the Academy's graduation group show. Always a kaleidoscopic swirl of shapes and colors, the event this year took on an even more international dimension, thanks to a wider cross-section of students from places like Japan, South Korea and former Soviet republics. Those hailing from European states seemed to stick with androgyny, nods to punk and deliciously tasteless styling. Stand-outs for us were Koji Arai's intricate lace skirts worn with Pinocchio hats and clown boots; the square-dance-ready dresses of Berivan Meyer, whose Western-themed collection was shown to a Dolly Parton soundtrack that got the audience bouncing; the Siouxsie-esque black and red corset dresses of Hanne De Wyngaert; the London skyline of Mikio Sakabe's sculptural shirts, ties, coats and capes; and, finally, Johanna Trudzinski's jumpers that, to Ben Harper's 'I Can Change the World with My Two Own Hands,' summed up the feeling of the night: this is the future of fashion. -Veerle Windels