Leather and Lace and Lynch: Louis Vuitton Spring 2015

A sense of randomness often pervades a Nicolas Ghesquière collection. His sophomore showing for Louis Vuitton today — held in LV's state-of-the-art, spaceship-like, sparkling new HQ designed by Frank Gehry — brought together disparate elements in ways novel, unexpected, and at times head-scratching.

The show opened with space-age monitors displaying a diverse cast of faces reciting lines from the David Lynch sci-fi thriller Dune (which may explain some of the ergonomic-looking knee pads later in the show), starting with: "A beginning is a very delicate time. Day zero in the heart of the project..."

Not that the clothes were particularly sci-fi, at least not to the degree of those C-3PO pants Ghesquière made for Balenciaga in 2008. First out of the gate were doily-like lacy white dresses, which, over the course of the first third of the show, were mixed and matched with phenomenal leather pieces in bright orange and red or stark black, some of them mere leather strips placed here or there. As if that weren't random enough, he also toyed with a print showing an assortment of lipstick, telephones, cars — like something from the art magazine Toilet Paper.

What came next were sensational trompe l'oeil all-sequin mini-dresses, suggestive of animal prints or curtains. After that were several stabs at jolie laide, i.e. velvet sports bras and flared pants or flouncy dresses with faded wallpaper patterns and a bulky zipper all the way down the front. One thing's for sure — he likes to keep us guessing.





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Oct 01, 2014 20:43:00

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