Rick Owens

With Mott the Hoople as the soundtrack of his men's show in January and Freddie Mercury blaring through the speakers at his women's show today, Rick Owens seems to be having a glam rock moment. But while the designer promoted a new classicism for the boys, the kind of girl he's envisioning for fall is aggression incarnate. This collection was certainly not for the faint of heart, as models stormed the runway with stoic stares and hair coiffed back like fierce huntresses, bringing to mind a journey of survival in some remote part of Africa. Tribal references came out as asymmetrical, savage-like fur coats, triangle-patterned tights, tufts of fur that trimmed elbow-length gloves and wide concave belts that recalled carved ethnic bracelets. The handcraft feel was perhaps strongest in coats covered with what looked like bits of stone tied together. By the time Owens took his bow, Queen had given way to the kind of deafening drumbeats you hear in underground European clubs.

• Posted Mar 04, 2010
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