Ann Demeulemeester

“Il n’y a pas de saison, en fait,” Carine Roitfeld was overheard saying at the end of Ann Demeulemeester. Translation: "there is no season, in fact." Without question, Demeulemeester’s ubiqui-black is a year-round phenomenon. Nevertheless, this time Demeulemeester surprised us with a zing of deep burnt-sienna, on belted leather jackets and wedge boots. Of course, this didn't overshadow Demeulemeester’s black magic, which came in the form of slim trousers, side-button blazers and long leather gloves. Also in the mix: large feathers, lots of them, spilling out from jacket sleeves and collars, as if ravens were hiding in the garments. At times it looked like the model was morphing into a scene out of The Birds. Dramatic, the feathering worked great with black, braided cords cascading from neck to waist like an S&M ropes course. Some of the pieces were a déjà vu from the men’s collection—cowl-neck fur coat, belted beige coat—so be to sure to coordinate in advance with your male cohorts before going out.

• Posted Mar 07, 2010
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