Given New York’s current streetwear obsession, the melancholy femmes Alexandre Herchcovitch showed for fall seemed all the more rebellious in their girlishness. But, then again, when has the Brazilian designer ever bothered himself with trends?
After a sultry offering for spring, Herchcovitch took his muse in another unexpected direction, digging up fusty fabrics made fresh through his impeccable execution. Models were draped in transparent layers of fabrics seemingly dug up from a dingy attic — gauzy creams and beiges giving the illusion of layers of skin hanging off their bodies as straps of delicate camisoles slipped from slight shoulders.
Ruffled Creamsicle-colored pieces and heavy taupe eyelet lace would have been right at home on Little House on the Prairie, yet any nostalgia was tempered by contrasting athletic knits and rhinestone embroidery in the seams. At the end of the show, the subtle palette gave way to heavy raspberry sherbet coats and black lace confections fit for a recently widowed Gothic Lolita, with doily-like patches of lace fluttering with each movement.
It may not be the most wearable collection to walk the New York runways this season, but Herchcovitch keeps his fans guessing season after season in a fashion scene that otherwise moves in waves.