“You've got to just keep on pushing, push the sky away,” droned Nick Cave as Ann Demeulemeester's models meandered down the catwalk. Not that Demeulemeester pushed her aesthetic to its outer limits, as she sometimes does. But she offered a solid rendition of her darkly poetic vision, with maybe a flight of fancy in the ubiquitous extra-large hats pierced with two feathers.
The black and white collection balanced light pieces—long fluid chiffon dresses, often with a dégradé effect at the neck—with more structured numbers like tough leather bustiers and knee-high lace-up boots, fitted little jackets, and a standout two-tone coat with an asymmetrical hem. Other hits included slouchy, roomy pants that were a timely reminder of her influential work in the 1990s.