Louis Vuitton

While Marc Jacobs' eponymous collection in New York promoted a return to basics, for Louis Vuitton, presented today around the fantastic fountain of the Louvre, he made a convincing case for the return of adult, curvaceous women. First out was Laetitia Casta, bosoms aquiver in a corseted A-line dress with elbow-length leather gloves. She anchored the Mad Men-like parade of 50's cutaway coats, exaggerated wide skirts and a few puffy (and less flattering) evening gowns, set to the kind of ominous music you hear in Hitchcock movies. The Eisenhower-era, ladylike look is a well-worn theme (not just for Jacobs, but any number of designers this season), which he articulated beautifully on models of the non-hanger persuasion. The comeback of sultry runway goddesses like Noémie Lenoir, Elle Macpherson, Karolina Kurkova and Adriana Lima probably also served as eye candy for the countless people who watched on Facebook. If they had attended the show, they would have seen the program notes devoted entirely to the Speedy bag, 54 versions of which were featured on the catwalk.

• Posted Mar 10, 2010
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