Marc Jacobs

After all these years, there's still no denying that Marc Jacobs is the hottest ticket in town. And he proved his worth again last night at New York's Lexington Avenue Armory. Jacobs had his artist friend Rachel Feinstein design the set, a ramshackle castle that, in scale, rivaled Chanel. And when you're footing the bill for such a major production, you'd better be able to serve up the goods. Jacobs did just that with quite the opening look: a mulberry jacket and wool shawl over satin leggings paired with what's sure to be the most talked-about accessory of the season, a massive fur hat.

Each look that followed mashed up multiple outlandish elements, partly inspired by street-style sensations and fashion stalwarts Anna Piaggi and Lynn Yaeger. But there was also a through-line to the work of Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto. Oversize jackets and dazzling textures were intentionally disorienting, throwing off every natural proportion of the otherwise svelte models.

The mix-and-match effect never let up. Paisley-print dresses were paired with tinseled scarves paired with Pilgrim shoes with glittering buckles, a shoe so blatantly attention-seeking we'd be inconsiderate not to mention it. The glaring question is, of course: who can wear these clothes? There are, after all, only so many Anna Piaggis and Lynn Yaegers in the world. But don't think too hard; just sit back and enjoy the show.

• Posted Feb 14, 2012
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