Jil Sander's spring collection started quietly and reassuringly enough. White pedal pushers, cream overcoats, and crisp black and navy jackets suggested another safely modern show. But no. Out of nowhere came a brightly flecked print resembling Mexican seasoning mix — hot! — followed immediately by a gray camo print on a skirt-shirt combo where the print had been modified to resemble human figures. And it didn't end there. Skin-revealing samurai-like shoulder straps, black feather fringe and a dress in black-and-white feathers recalling a Dalmatian print closed a most unusual and exotic collection for the queen of minimalism.