Siki Im, in his fourth season since winning the Ecco Domani prize, showed his most polished men's collection to date—by going native. In his show notes, he spoke of a meditation on tranquility by way of Native American spirituality and Mother Earth. Lofty, yet it worked, thanks to the live chanting and dirt runway, but chiefly to a collaboration with Navajo weaver Tahnibaa Naataanii, which resulted in a standout traditional Navajo wedding dress shown over a sharp suit. Adding to the indigenous vibe were fur-covered pigtails and heavy-lidded eye makeup that simultaneously referenced Indian war paint and a 90s Steven Meisel Vogue Italia shoot.
Siki always has fun with headwear and this season was no exception. His models sported wide-brimmed rabbit felt hats he called Apalloosa and Indian, exaggerated gaucho styles borne out of a collaboration with New York milliner Heather Huey.
The lapel-less double-breasted suit jackets hand-cut at Martin Greenfield were shown with drop-crotch trousers in heavier wool and fluid silks, some cropped to graze the ankles, others pooling around the shoes. Particularly appealing was a series of quilted tunics in navy, chocolate brown and gray. Outerwear included a boiled-wool bomber, a waxed-cotton trench in dirt brown, and a robe coat edged in quilted silk that was at once elegant and cozy. This is the nation of Siki Im.