Long inspired by anthropology and the human condition, Hussein Chalayan now points his microscopic thought process to the animal kingdom—specifically, the extinction of species—for his new Chalayan label. The lower-priced line includes safari jackets, miniskirts in thin pleated muslin reminiscent of bug-proof netting, and asymmetrically cut denim jackets, as well as vests and tanks that incorporate a crisscross of ropes to represent nets used in the capture of animals. T-shirts are printed with a collage of wild creatures, among which the twice-crowned British Designer of the Year inserted white shapes to indicate those that have gone the way of the dodo. Many pieces are as multifunctional as Chalayan's signature line, such as a skirt that unfurls into a dress and pants with side buttons to adjust the length. Prices range from $150 (tanks) to $995 (dresses). Feel the animal magnetism at Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., New York, 212-219-2688.
Thanks, Stella, for debunking the last excuse we had for avoiding the gym: crappy workout gear. McCartney, an avid equestrian and gym-goer when she's not preggers, has teamed up with Adidas to design a women's running-swimming-exercising collection that also happens to take appearance into account. "Go into sports shops and most of the stuff available looks like My Little Pony in heat," she says. "It's all baby pink, candy-floss, baby blue, head-to-toe." Instead, the 58-piece Adidas by Stella McCartney sport performance line ($48 to $242)—which includes apparel, footwear and accessories—is made of high-tech, moisture-managing materials in a range of colors from red and yellow to sage and black. McCartney intends the line to be used for serious sweating, unlike bling-encrusted gym bags or cashmere sweatpants clinging to celebrity asses, even going so far as to consult athletes Steffi Graf, Laila Ali and Jade Johnson. As any granola-munching vegan will tell you, the girl's devoted when she wants to be. In New York at Bloomingdale's, 59th Street & Lexington Avenue.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Surface to Air—the design collective that's built a cultish following since morphing from a Paris graphics studio into a streetwear boutique where more than a few underground exhibits and Fashion Week parties have taken place—is coming of age. Turns out that while the shop was getting all the attention, the New York office was quietly piecing together the label's most sophisticated effort to date, Estuay. The spring debut was a thoroughly tailored and finished collection of suits, dresses, skirts and shirts in neutral colors—save the occasional burst of red—and supple, soft materials to offset the crisp, almost architectural lines. Knits—cashmere, bien sûr—and accessories complement the line. If you're wondering where the arty grit went, look no further than inside the blazer where the lining features the label's signature graphics. So, no need to worry, Surface to Air is not going square anytime soon. In New York at I Heart, in Stockholm at Le Shop, in Tokyo at Isetan and Chimera Luxe, and in Paris at Surface to Air. -Suleman Anaya
Moscow designer Egor Zaitsev's bunched spindles of fabric—a technique called "smorzhoplivanie"—that branch out from otherwise traditional coats, jackets, dresses, tops, pants, and swimsuits make for clothes that can really grab you. But don't let the unwieldy Alien-like tentacles fool you. The spring collection, among the best we saw during Russian Fashion Week last November, owes less to clown-couture theatricality than a tradition of bespoke tailoring handed down to him from his legendary father. Still very much alive, Slava Zaitsev, a charmingly arrogant character with a Dali-esque self-image, was the first (and last) designer of the Soviet era. The Red Dior, as he's called, became famous behind the Iron Curtain for his traditionally Slavic high fashion with traditionally Western high prices, and continued his work, post-Communism, by dressing First Ladies from Raisa Gorbachev to Lyudmila Putin, as well as Russian ice skaters, Olympic athletes, ballerinas and even the Moscow police. He even found time to form a fashion school and a modeling agency, which is still the country's most prestigious. So while Western editors swoon over Russian influences on the New York and London fall runways with quips like "Dr. Zhivago Is In!," just remember the book is always better than the movie. Egor Zaitsev, 21 Prospekt Mira, Moscow, +007 095-631-4141.
