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Moscow designer Egor Zaitsev's bunched spindles of fabrica technique called "smorzhoplivanie"that branch out from otherwise traditional coats, jackets, dresses, tops, pants, and swimsuits make for clothes that can really grab you. But don't let the unwieldy Alien-like tentacles fool you. The spring collection, among the best we saw during Russian Fashion Week last November, owes less to clown-couture theatricality than a tradition of bespoke tailoring handed down to him from his legendary father. Still very much alive, Slava Zaitsev, a charmingly arrogant character with a Dali-esque self-image, was the first (and last) designer of the Soviet era. The Red Dior, as he's called, became famous behind the Iron Curtain for his traditionally Slavic high fashion with traditionally Western high prices, and continued his work, post-Communism, by dressing First Ladies from Raisa Gorbachev to Lyudmila Putin, as well as Russian ice skaters, Olympic athletes, ballerinas and even the Moscow police. He even found time to form a fashion school and a modeling agency, which is still the country's most prestigious. So while Western editors swoon over Russian influences on the New York and London fall runways with quips like "Dr. Zhivago Is In!," just remember the book is always better than the movie. Egor Zaitsev, 21 Prospekt Mira, Moscow, +007 095-631-4141.
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