October '04
Hint pays attention to retail


The streets of Paris—and the world for that matter—just wouldn't be the same without Monsieur Lagerfeld. The frosty-haired designer behind a myriad of high-end labels pulls out all the stops with his own Lagerfeld Gallery, as seen here with this air-soft and striated fur scarf, which serves as a counterbalance to the oversized metal belt buckles and tailored leatherwork that otherwise typifies the line. And because Lagerfeld creates his own trickle down effect, producing opulence at the top while influencing the proletariat below, we can easily see why he'd turn his restless eye from Chanel and Fendi to mass marketer H&M. High or low, we'll follow Karl anywhere. Available in New York at Jeffrey, 449 W. 14th Street, 212-206-1272. -Robyn Dutra
Though his secondary Y's line is outright bubbly this fall—with its perky cartoon characters and slogans like "Power Speed," "Moto Yohji" and "Yama Moto" slapped on multi-colored motorcycle jackets—Yohji Yamamoto continues his sober ways for his signature line. Shadowy dresses and tailored black jackets, Yamamoto's specialty, characterize all of the designer's collections—with fall being no exception—emphasizing his monastic defiance of the industry's joyful mood. Worn with these combat boots, also by Yamamoto, the look is downright menacing. Yohji Yamamoto, 84 Wooster St., 212-966-1958.

A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Study fashion at Parsons The New School for Design in NYC
 

Following in the "Der Rubbish" theme of his fall collection—a concept based on the obsessive German preoccupation with sorting trash (we're told it's color-coding raised to an art form)—these old school-style high tops from Bernhard Willhelm, a Belgian of German descent, are designed to resemble the tattered scraps of a garbage heap. The sneakers ($235) are made of white synthetic fabric—a brave move—printed with the words "anti-fashion" across the side, a statement about the transitory nature of culture, of which fashion is a part. One thing is for sure, they'll help keep you camouflaged should you find yourself lying blotto in the gutter. Available in New York at Seven New York.

Lovers of a bright and kicky knit no longer have to fork over their rent for an easily-snagged Missoni-esque concoction, thanks to Sao Paulo-based Teresa Santos and her Patachou line. Made out of a wool-cotton blend, the slinky collection—full of complicated patterns in simple shapes—hugs the body (the line is Brazilian) with just enough drape to be forgiving. If a dolman-sleeved dress, crewneck-and-tap-pants romper suit, or clingy poor boy aren't enough, be sure to top them off with one of the extra-long braided, knotted scarves. The 1970s-era plastic toy ads could have been talking about Patachou's knits: "They're colorforms fun!" Available in New York at Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., 212-219-2688. -Alexandra Marshall
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