A D V E R T I S E M E N T |
|
|
|
 
If you've been to Iceland in the last few years, you know that the land of fire and ice is also the land of experimental hair and baby strollers. (Apparently that's what happens when you put hot Nordic genes on a cold, isolated island.) Yet inhabitants of the teeny port capital of Reykjavik also harbor a new passion for fashion. The more extreme, the better. We saw it firsthand when we recently hopped half the pond to check out the graduation fashion show of the Iceland Academy of Arts. Opening the show was Gudjon Sigurdur Tryggvason, who simply (and thankfully) calls his nascent label Go With Jan, the phonetic pronunciation of his first name. The diminutive designer, who bears an uncanny resemblance to the adorable—and tasty!—native puffin bird, sent out white blanket-dresses in deference to the frigid North Atlantic climate, thick handmade knits in a nod to the rich tradition of Icelandic crafts, and whale-sized hats (pictured here) "to hint at the surreal," he told us. Other standout students included Elma Johanna Backman, whose models seemed to shrink in the enormous panniers—in geometric Art-Deco shapes—bulging from their hips, and Bjorg Gudmundsdottir, whose pieces were meticulously folded, OCD-like. As the course director, Linda Bjorg Arnadottir, explains, "We're doing European avant-garde since we have no traditions or industry to serve. We have only ideas." And clever ideas they were. But will the graduating fashion class of 2006—all eight of them—create tangible Icelandic labels or leave for less permanently frozen pastures? Both, she hopes. "I need my students to go abroad and get experience in running a fashion company. Then they can come back and do their own stuff like Steinunn Sigurd did. She worked with Calvin Klein and [Tom Ford at] Gucci for many years before returning." Of course, to have a thriving design scene back home, there needs to be a thriving retail scene. No problem. Iceland is the 5th-richest country in the world per capita. Meanwhile, leading the storefront charge are a Comme des Garcons guerilla shop that popped up not long ago and Kron Kron, a homegrown boutique that recently reopened on the main shopping strip (Laugavegur 63B, +354 562 8388), selling mostly British and Scandinavian names of progressive persuasion: Vivienne Westwood, Aganovich & Yung, Camilla Staerk, Roksanda Ilincic, Henrik Vibskov and Wood Wood. We're told that while some older Icelanders grumble at the designer prices, the young and beautiful set is gobbling it up as they do in bigger fashion capitals—by not paying rent.
|
|