November '06
We pay attention to retail


We begin our London special not with another clever dress from the latest collections, but with a crowd favorite: slogan T-shirts by House of Holland. Mocking the recent spate of celebrity-plugged varieties, designer-stylist Henry Holland paid homage to his favorite designers with his humorously salacious "Fashion Groupies" tees ($70-$95), even persuading Giles Deacon and Gareth Pugh to wear them for their runway bows. As a result, slogans including "Get yer freak on, Giles Deacon," "Do me daily, Christopher Bailey" and "Cause me pain, Hedi Slimane" have caught on with the city's club tykes and fashion elite alike. And you don't have to wait six months to get your hands on them; they can be found now at POP Goes To Dover Street Market in London and Tokyo, The Pineal Eye (49 Broadwick Street, +44 0 20 7434 2567) and Seven New York (110 Mercer Street, 646-654-0156). Stephen Morriss
Those who can't recall Azzedine Alaïa's skintight bandage dresses from the early 1990s, or Gianni Versace's infamous bondage collection, need only look to Marios Schwab—winner of the New Designer of the Year award in last week's British Fashion Awards—for a refresher course. The 28-year-old Central St Martins graduate is one of London's first Nineties revivalists (there'll be plenty more) to resurrect the decade's sexy, body-molding shapes—in his case with black jacquard, red velvet and other plush materials decorated with gold metalwork, some in the shape of olive branches. Leave it to a Greek to reinvent a classic age. And when London, with its predilection for punk and chunky tweed, entertains the notion of anything remotely sexy, you know it's a major moment waiting to happen. "While I don't consciously imitate the 90s," says Schwab, "the first thing that comes to mind when I design is the woman's body, which is what the 90s were about. In the 80s, fashion was ridiculous and contrived." In New York at Opening Ceremony, in London at Browns, in Paris at Maria Luisa (2 rue Cambon, +33 01 47 03 96 15).

It's Dover all over again with the opening of a mini-me Tokyo version of London's reigning concept store. Described by Rei Kawakubo as "a microcosm of beautiful chaos," the interior is one-tenth the size of its big sister, but comes complete with all her hallmarks: fashion-meets-art installations and wooden shacks to form an urban bazaar. Labels include the various Comme des Garçons branches and UK designers ranging from Stephen Jones millinery and Tom Dixon for Lacoste to Munoz Vandrecic and Duggie Fields. Not exactly a replica, however, the Tokyo outlet, while designed by Kawakubo, is also the result of the collaborative effort between interior designer Michael Howells and Japanese artists Yuichi Higashionna and Kahor Maki. London won't be the same without the Japanese style pack. Dover Street Market Tokyo, 5-12-3 Minami Aoyama Minato-ku-Tokyo, 81 (0) 3 468 8301. Victoria Herbert
A D V E R T I S E M E N T

 
The scrunchy is back, thanks to Katie Hillier, and it's scarier than ever in patent leather with studded hardware (£30, or around $60), available only at POP Goes to Dover Street Market in London and Tokyo. While you're there, check out pieces made exclusively for the stall, from handblown glass poodles by Gareth Pugh to punk stiletto sandals by Giles Deacon for Gina that, with still more spikes and studs, are to die for—and you just might... b Store owners Jose Neves, Kirk Beattie and Matthew Murphy have always done it their way—beginning with Neves' bold move, when he opened shop in 2001, to stock recent fashion graduates alongside his new b Footwear shoe line. Since then, the three have relocated to a Savile Row space with room for a small art gallery, launched b Clothing (including men's) and published their first book. Rewarding their indie spirit, the British Fashion Council bestowed the culty emporium with Shop of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, held November 2 at the Victoria & Albert Museum... On November 9, Paul Smith opens his second New York store at 142 Greene Street in SoHo, bringing together all the Sir's collections in one place (formerly Pace Gallery), including three for women, the various collections for men, plus objects, furniture and a book shop.
The louche-meets-luxe men's line Zoltar the Magnificent (once fronted, you may remember, by Dan Macmillan, the publishing heir and great-grandson of a British prime minister) returns this fall with a bright collection of dark subject matter—in typically contrary form. Combining street style with old-English eccentricity has always been a specialty at the London label named after a superhero, where barbed-wire hoodies ($420) and acid-colored baseball jackets ($1300) are mixed with gentlemanly coats and blazers ($1120). Zoltar also prints skulls, guns and electric chairs on the finest Italian cashmere sweaters ($680) by Loro Piana, while offering, for the bedroom, luxurious robes and pajamas printed with the gloomy etchings of the 18th-century artist and political satirist William Hogarth. Set the look off with a pink cashmere balaclava ($280). In Los Angeles at Fred Segal, 8118 Melrose Avenue, 323-655-3734 and Maxfield, 8825 Melrose Avenue, 310-274-8800, and in London at Selfridges. SM

Over the years, in his role as artistic director for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs has persuaded a wide range of creative individuals—i.e. Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami—to lend their seemingly antithetical styles to the French house's leather goods. Now, for the 2007 Cruise collection, Jacobs has enlisted UK punk stylist extraordinaire (and Hint Shop contributor) Judy Blame, who provides his trademark tangle of paper clips, safety pins, key chains and other dangly bits to the luxury label's luggage and women's ready-to-wear. The outcome: monogrammed denim shorts, jackets and handbags trimmed with generous amounts of logo-ed buttons, charms and chains—heaps of delicious tastelessness from the maximalist who rose to fame in the Buffalo movement of the 1980s, with its emphasis on androgynous street style, and who has since created jewelry and accessories for Comme des Garçons and his own label. Arriving in Louis Vuitton stores worldwide throughout November. SM

Bumble and bumble owner Michael Gordon launches his new retail concept this month on the 8th floor of the hair salon's grand headquarters in New York's Meatpacking district, housing a café, barber shop, home and travel accessories department and specialist tea shop. The store's menswear comes courtesy of East London tailor Timothy Everest, a friend of Gordon for over 15 years, whose distinctly British bespoke tailoring hits US shores for the first time. But what really has us buzzing is Everest's new range of fully bespoke denim jeans. For around $1000, your choice of indigo, dark vintage wash, dogtooth or white wash Japanese denim will be cut and stitched in to the best-fitting pair of jeans you're likely to ever own, complete with a hand-written inside label stating your name and measurements. Bumble and bumble, 415 West 13th Street, 8th floor, 212-521-6500. SM